Founded by Edwin Fear, the
Fears navigated through the ebbs and flows of the industry, witnessing the rise of mass production and the quartz crisis, yet managing to retain its commitment to traditional craftsmanship and refined aesthetics. Now, under the stewardship of the fourth generation of the Fear family, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, Fears has reemerged with a renewed vigor, crafting timepieces that blend heritage with contemporary design.
The latest testament to this revitalization is the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Boutique Edition, a limited-production watch that embodies the brand's dedication to horological excellence. Following in the footsteps of the acclaimed Alliance 01, this timepiece takes the iconic Brunswick Jump Hour design to new heights, introducing a refined dial layout, captivating color schemes, and a range of exquisite finishing options.
Courtesy of Fears
Before delving into the intricacies of the Boutique Edition, it's essential to appreciate the lineage from which it springs. The Brunswick collection, named after the company's original Bristol address, draws inspiration from a gentleman's cushion case watch found in the Fears archives, dating back to 1924. This vintage piece, with its distinctive silhouette and understated elegance, served as the muse for the modern Brunswick line, which debuted in 2017.
The Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, launched in 2021, further solidified the collection's reputation for combining classic design with horological innovation. The jump hour complication, a relatively rare feature in watchmaking, adds a touch of whimsy and sophistication to the time display. Instead of a conventional hour hand, the watch features a small aperture at 12 o'clock that instantaneously "jumps" to reveal the current hour, while a single hand gracefully tracks the minutes.
The Boutique Edition, exclusive to the Fears Boutique in Bristol and the Fears Owners' Club, elevates the Brunswick's allure with a series of subtle yet impactful enhancements. The 40.5mm cushion-shaped case, crafted from 316L stainless steel, retains its signature curves and fluid lines, devoid of any harsh angles. The interplay of brushed and polished finishes accentuates the case's sculptural form, creating a captivating dance of light and shadow.
The dial, presented in a mesmerizing "Mallard Green" hue, evokes the iridescent plumage of a mallard duck, shifting subtly between shades of green, grey, and blue depending on the lighting. This captivating backdrop serves as the canvas for a meticulously crafted display of horological artistry.
A fine concentric guilloché pattern adorns the central minute section, adding depth and texture to the dial. The outer area features a delicate sunburst finish that radiates outwards, further enhancing the visual dynamism. The absence of hour numerals, replaced by the jump hour aperture at 12 o'clock, reinforces the watch's minimalist aesthetic, allowing the intricate details to take center stage.
Courtesy of Fears
The hour window, framed by a hand-applied silver ring coated in rhodium, commands attention with its gleaming presence. The chapter rings, meticulously machined with bevels and finished by hand, echo this interplay of textures, creating a harmonious balance between polished and brushed surfaces.
The lone "Fears-shaped" minute hand, a signature element of the Brunswick design, glides effortlessly across the dial, its dual finish ensuring optimal legibility in any lighting condition. Half of the hand is polished to a mirror shine, while the other half is frosted, creating a subtle contrast that complements the dial's intricate patterns.
While the Boutique Edition's visual appeal is undeniable, its true essence lies within its mechanical heart. The watch is powered by the Swiss-made, automatic winding JJ01 movement, featuring a module developed in-house by Christopher Ward. This movement, originally used in the Fears x
Christopher Ward Alliance 01 and now exclusively supplied to Fears, is built on a Sellita SW200 base, renowned for its reliability and accuracy.
The JJ01 module adds the jump hour complication to the Sellita SW200, creating a seamless integration of form and function. Each hour change is instantaneous, a testament to the precision engineering behind the movement. The watch has also been regulated to Chronometer grade, ensuring exceptional timekeeping performance.
The Boutique Edition offers a choice between two exquisite options to secure the watch to the wrist. The first is a handmade Pewter Grey strap crafted from Barenia leather, a premium calfskin known for its durability and supple texture. The strap's darker grey stitching adds a touch of sophistication, while the genuine Alcantara lining, dyed a deep shade of blue, provides exceptional comfort against the skin. The strap is fastened with Fears' new bespoke pin buckle, featuring the Fears Cypher, a subtle yet distinctive detail.
For those who prefer the cool touch of metal, the Boutique Edition can also be fitted with a bespoke stainless steel 5-link bracelet. The bracelet's expertly brushed and polished links create a captivating interplay of light, while the solid screw links ensure a secure and comfortable fit. The bracelet can be micro-adjusted for optimal comfort and is secured with a trigger-release butterfly clasp adorned with the Bristol flower enamel, a nod to the brand's heritage.
The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Boutique Edition is more than just a timekeeping instrument; it's a testament to the enduring legacy of British watchmaking. Hand-built in Britain, each watch carries a unique serial number engraved discreetly on the case, a reminder of its individuality and the meticulous care that went into its creation.
Courtesy of Fears
The watch is presented in the Amos box, a slim, rectangular wooden box made of solid ash and stained in Fears' bespoke blue color. Inspired by traditional Fears watch boxes from the past, the Amos box features a discreetly engraved Fears logo, a gentle bevel around its edges, and a luxurious cream suede lining.
The Brunswick's 40.5mm cushion-shaped case is a masterpiece of engineering and design. Crafted from 316L stainless steel, a material known for its durability and corrosion resistance, the case is meticulously machined to achieve its signature curves and fluid lines. There are no flat surfaces to be found; even the solid case back boasts a gentle sweep, further emphasizing the watch's organic form.
The interplay of brushed and polished finishes adds another layer of visual complexity. The bezel and case sides are expertly polished to a mirror-like sheen, while the lugs and case back feature a subtle brushed finish. This contrast in textures creates a captivating interplay of light and shadow, enhancing the watch's sculptural presence on the wrist.
The traditional "onion"-shaped crown, signed with the Fears Cypher, is a testament to the brand's commitment to heritage. Its fine grooves not only provide a tactile grip but also catch the light, adding a touch of brilliance to the case's edge.
The Boutique Edition's "Mallard Green" dial is a work of art in its own right. The rich, deep green hue, reminiscent of the iridescent feathers of a mallard duck, shifts subtly in different lighting conditions, creating a mesmerizing visual effect.
The dial's surface is adorned with a series of intricate details that showcase the brand's dedication to craftsmanship. The central minute section features a fine concentric guilloché pattern, engraved deeply into the metal. This intricate pattern adds depth and texture to the dial, creating a captivating interplay of light and shadow.
The outer area of the dial boasts a delicate sunburst finish that radiates outwards, further enhancing the visual dynamism. The absence of hour numerals, replaced by the jump hour aperture at 12 o'clock, reinforces the watch's minimalist aesthetic, allowing the intricate details to take center stage.
Courtesy of Fears
The jump hour aperture itself is a marvel of precision engineering. The numerals, printed in glossy black ink on a bright white lacquered disc, instantaneously "jump" to reveal the current hour, a testament to the watch's mechanical ingenuity. The aperture is framed by a hand-applied silver ring coated in rhodium, a precious metal known for its durability and lustrous sheen.
The chapter rings, meticulously machined with bevels and finished by hand, echo this interplay of textures, creating a harmonious balance between polished and brushed surfaces. These details, while subtle, contribute significantly to the watch's overall sense of refinement.
At the heart of the Boutique Edition beats the Swiss-made, automatic winding JJ01 movement, featuring a module developed in-house by Christopher Ward. This movement, exclusive to Fears, is built on a Sellita SW200 base, renowned for its reliability and accuracy. The JJ01 module adds the jump hour complication, ensuring each hour change is instantaneous and precise.
The movement's performance is further enhanced by its Chronometer-grade regulation, guaranteeing exceptional timekeeping accuracy. While hidden beneath the solid case back, the movement's intricate workings can be appreciated through the sapphire crystal exhibition case back, a testament to the brand's transparency and pride in its craftsmanship.
The Boutique Edition offers a choice between two exquisite options to secure the watch to the wrist. The first is a handmade Pewter Grey strap crafted from Barenia leather. This premium calfskin, known for its durability and supple texture, develops a beautiful patina over time, adding a touch of personal character to the watch.
The strap's darker grey stitching and genuine Alcantara lining, dyed a deep shade of blue, provide both visual and tactile appeal. The Fears bespoke pin buckle, featuring the Fears Cypher, adds a subtle yet distinctive touch.
For those who prefer the cool touch of metal, the Boutique Edition can also be fitted with a bespoke stainless steel 5-link bracelet. The bracelet's expertly brushed and polished links create a captivating interplay of light, while the solid screw links ensure a secure and comfortable fit. The bracelet can be micro-adjusted for optimal comfort and is secured with a trigger-release butterfly clasp adorned with the Bristol flower enamel.
Courtesy of Fears
The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Boutique Edition is more than just a timepiece; it's a testament to the enduring legacy of British watchmaking and a collector's dream
With a retail price of £4,250 (Inc. Vat) for the strap version and £4,450 (Inc. Vat) for the bracelet version, the Boutique Edition represents exceptional value for a watch of this caliber. Its limited availability further enhances its desirability, making it a coveted addition to any discerning collector's collection.