Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon

Favre Leuba, a name etched into the annals of watchmaking since 1737, embarks on a significant new venture with the introduction of the Chief Tourbillon. This launch marks the first time the historic Le Locle-based brand has incorporated the complex tourbillon mechanism into its lineup, signalling a bold step in its contemporary evolution. Choosing the established Chief model line as the platform for this horological debut underscores the brand's strategy of blending its rich heritage with forward-looking mechanical ambition.

The history of Favre Leuba stretches back nearly three centuries, founded in the cradle of Swiss watchmaking, Le Locle. Throughout its existence, the brand cultivated a reputation for creating robust, reliable timepieces often associated with exploration and endurance. It pioneered advancements in areas like water resistance and altimeter watches. However, like many traditional watchmakers, it faced challenges over the years. The year 2024 marked a significant turning point, representing a deliberate and strategic revival for the brand.



This revitalization effort is spearheaded by a new team comprising experienced figures from the watch industry, led by CEO Patrik Hoffmann, whose previous roles include leadership positions at Ulysse Nardin and Watchbox Switzerland. Their mission is clear: to re-energize Favre Leuba by honouring its legacy while infusing it with modern relevance and innovation. The guiding principles are "Heritage and revival," aiming to rebuild the brand's identity and market presence.

The revamped strategy involves a focused collection structured around three core pillars: the Chief, the Sea Sky, and the Deep Blue lines. This curated approach allows the brand to cater to different tastes while maintaining a cohesive identity. Alongside this product strategy, there's a stated commitment to offering value, with a core range of 22 models positioned at accessible price points relative to their Swiss mechanical nature, generally falling between CHF 2,200 and CHF 4,400, before considering high complications like the new tourbillon.

Integral to this transformation are seasoned professionals like designers Antoine Tschumi and Laurent Auberson, tasked with shaping the aesthetic direction of the revived Favre Leuba. Their expertise contributes to refining the visual language of the brand, ensuring that new creations resonate with contemporary sensibilities while respecting historical design cues inherent to Favre Leuba models like the Chief.

For the creation of its very first tourbillon, Favre Leuba sought external expertise, collaborating with one of the industry's highly regarded independent movement specialists: Jean-François Mojon and his atelier, Chronode. Mojon has earned acclaim for his inventive contributions to movement design, having worked with prestigious brands such as MB&F, Czapek, and Hermès. This partnership brings a high level of technical credibility and innovative capacity to the Chief Tourbillon project.

Together, Favre Leuba and Chronode developed the FLT01 caliber that powers the Chief Tourbillon. This collaboration highlights Favre Leuba's ambition to produce mechanically sophisticated timepieces. The resulting watch aims to deliver a high complication experience that, while positioned at a premium, remains notably accessible compared to many other Swiss-made tourbillons, reflecting the brand's renewed value proposition.



The Chief Tourbillon utilizes the distinctive cushion-shaped case that characterizes the Chief collection. This case design, with its blend of rounded contours and defined edges, provides a strong visual identity. Crafted from stainless steel, the case dimensions are carefully considered for wearability, measuring 41mm in diameter. Significantly, the case maintains a relatively slim profile for a tourbillon watch, with a thickness of just 11.45mm, housing the complex mechanism without excessive bulk.

Attention to detail extends to the case's finishing and functional elements. The surfaces feature a combination of brushed and polished treatments, accentuating the multifaceted geometry of the cushion shape. The knurled crown, designed for easy grip and operation, is subtly embossed with the Favre Leuba monogram. Protecting the dial is a gently curved sapphire crystal treated with an anti-reflective coating to ensure maximum legibility under various lighting conditions.

Practicality is also considered, as the case construction provides water resistance up to 100 meters (10 ATM). This level of water resistance is quite robust for a watch featuring a tourbillon complication, adding a layer of versatility and reassurance for daily wear. Flipping the watch over reveals an exhibition caseback, also fitted with sapphire crystal, granting an unobstructed view of the meticulously decorated FLT01 movement within.

Central to the Chief Tourbillon's identity is its unique "Sablier" dial. The term "sablier" is French for hourglass, directly referencing Favre Leuba's historical emblem. Patrik Hoffmann emphasizes the dial's role, stating, "The dial is how a timepiece reveals its character." For this milestone watch, the brand developed an exclusive dial design that moves beyond standard finishing techniques to become an artistic creation in its own right.

The Sablier dial features an intriguing, three-dimensional surface constructed through a complex process. Master craftspeople employ specially engineered tools to perform multiple stages of precise stamping. This technique achieves a distinctive multi-level structure where Favre Leuba's hourglass logo, or rather elements derived from its triangular shapes, are arranged in a seemingly spontaneous yet harmonious pattern across the dial face.

This embossed pattern is not merely superficial; it possesses tangible depth. The triangular motifs are distributed across three distinct tiers, extending from the dial's primary surface down to a depth of 0.30mm. Within this structure, different finishes are applied: fine sunburst triangles are raised slightly (0.15mm) above the foundational layer, while matte-finished triangles rest slightly below it (0.15mm). The interplay between these raised, recessed, and foundational levels creates a visually complex landscape.



The result of this intricate construction and finishing is a dial that interacts dynamically with light. The precisely executed triangles, each finished differently depending on its level, catch and reflect light in myriad ways. The combination of sunray brushing on the raised elements and the matte texture of the recessed ones, contrasted against the foundational surface, generates a captivating play of light and shadow, ensuring the dial's appearance shifts constantly with the viewing angle.

Complementing the textured dial are carefully selected hands and indexes. Rhodium-plated, polished indexes mark the hours, filled with Super-LumiNova C1 X1, which emits a blue glow in low light for readability. The hour and minute hands are also rhodium-plated, featuring a mix of satin-brushed and sandblasted finishes, and are similarly treated with Super-LumiNova. Positioned within the tourbillon aperture at 6 o'clock is the small seconds hand, distinguished by its traditional flame-blued finish, adding a pop of color and horological refinement. The brand's 3D logo sits centrally below the 12 o'clock position.

Driving the Chief Tourbillon is the manual-winding caliber FLT01, representing Favre Leuba's inaugural tourbillon movement. Developed in collaboration with Jean-François Mojon, it is based on Chronode's C502 caliber but has been significantly reworked to align with Favre Leuba's specifications and aesthetic identity. This high-potential movement is engineered for accuracy, largely thanks to the inclusion of the tourbillon regulator.

The FLT01 operates at a frequency of 3 Hz, equivalent to 21,600 vibrations per hour. It provides a substantial power reserve of approximately 60 hours when fully wound, drawing energy from a single mainspring barrel. The movement incorporates 23 jewels to minimize friction at critical points. Its construction and finishing reflect the elevated standard expected of a complication piece from the brand.

Through the sapphire caseback, the movement decoration is clearly visible. Bold Côtes de Genève stripes adorn the main plate, rendered with a subtle anthracite finish that lends a modern touch. The ratchet wheel is engraved with Favre Leuba's hourglass emblem. Gold engravings indicating the brand logo and technical details provide contrast against the darker plates, a contrast further enhanced by the use of thermally blued screws, a traditional watchmaking flourish that also pays tribute to Favre Leuba's long history. The caseback itself features a unique decoration: a spiral-relief hourglass motif set against a laser-engraved background with a refined satin texture.



The tourbillon itself is prominently positioned at the 6 o'clock location on the dial. This mechanism, originally invented to counteract the effects of gravity on a pocket watch's escapement, involves placing the balance wheel and escapement components within a rotating cage that typically completes one revolution per minute. In the Chief Tourbillon, this rotating cage serves as the display for the small seconds.

The tourbillon cage, measuring a significant 14.85mm in diameter, offers a captivating spectacle of micro-mechanical motion. It is secured by a distinctively shaped upper bridge, meticulously hand-finished. Chronode cleverly designed this bridge so that its opposing sections subtly evoke the form of an hourglass, reinforcing the brand's emblem. This bridge performs multiple functions: it supports the tourbillon cage, incorporates the rehaut (flange) for the small seconds track, and holds the central pivot for the flame-blued seconds hand – integrating three functions into one complex component.

Further showcasing the attention to detail, the tourbillon bridge exhibits contrasting finishes. Its top surface features a horizontal brushing pattern, running parallel to the 3 o'clock-9 o'clock axis of the dial. In contrast, the outer edge of the bridge, which carries the printed seconds track, is finished with circular graining (perlage), adding another layer of visual interest to this focal point of the watch.

The Chief Tourbillon is presented on an integrated stainless steel bracelet that flows seamlessly from the cushion case. This three-link bracelet features a combination of finishes, with vertically brushed outer links flanking polished center links, creating a sophisticated look. The bracelet tapers slightly towards the clasp for enhanced comfort and wrist presence. It is equipped with a butterfly clasp for secure closure and features an easy-change mechanism, allowing the wearer to swap it out without tools. Additionally, the watch package includes a complimentary black rubber strap fitted with a traditional pin buckle, offering a sportier alternative.

Recognizing the special nature of this timepiece, Favre Leuba delivers the Chief Tourbillon in a high-grade wooden presentation box. Beyond the watch itself, the box contains the additional black rubber strap, a commemorative medallion, and a watchmaker's loupe, inviting the owner to appreciate the fine details of the movement and dial craftsmanship up close.



The Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon is strictly a limited edition, with only 25 pieces being produced for worldwide distribution. This rarity makes it an exclusive item for collectors and enthusiasts interested in the brand's revival and its first foray into tourbillon manufacturing. According to CEO Patrik Hoffmann, the Chief Tourbillon signifies the brand's technical and aesthetic goals, showcasing their capability to deliver sophisticated watchmaking at a competitive price point for its level of complexity. Jean-François Mojon also expressed his honor in contributing to a new chapter for such a storied name in Swiss watchmaking.

This limited-edition timepiece is priced at 24,800 Swiss Francs (CHF). Given the extremely limited production run of just 25 units, availability is exclusive, positioning the Chief Tourbillon as a rare and significant piece within the contemporary Favre Leuba collection and a testament to the brand's ambitious path forward.

Case: Stainless steel cushion shape, 41 mm diameter, 11.45 mm thickness, 22 mm lug width. Curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, see-through sapphire caseback. Water resistant to 100 meters (10 ATM). Brushed and polished finishes.

Movement: Caliber FLT01 (based on Chronode C502), manual winding tourbillon. Features hours, minutes, small seconds integrated with the tourbillon (1-minute rotation). Approx. 60-hour power reserve, 21,600 VPH (3 Hz) frequency, 23 jewels. Decorated with Geneva stripes, anthracite finish, blue screws, engraved ratchet wheel.

Dial: Black, three-level embossed "Sablier" structure with raised sunray brushed triangles and recessed matte triangles. Rhodium-plated polished indexes with blue Super-LumiNova C1 X1. Rhodium-plated satin-brushed/sandblasted hour/minute hands with blue Super-LumiNova C1 X1; flame-blued small seconds hand. 3D central logo.

Strap: Interchangeable system. Includes integrated brushed & polished steel bracelet with folding clasp and an additional black rubber strap with pin buckle.

Price: 24,800 CHF

Reference Number: 00.20103.150.01.200

Notes: Favre Leuba's first-ever tourbillon watch, developed in collaboration with Jean-François Mojon (Chronode). Limited edition of only 25 pieces worldwide. Features distinctive multi-level embossed Sablier dial inspired by the brand's hourglass emblem. Presented in a high-grade wooden box with an extra strap, medallion, and loupe.