DOXA SUB 250T GMT

After an absence spanning nearly two decades, the GMT function makes its heralded return to the Doxa SUB collection. Enthusiasts, collectors, and retail partners worldwide had consistently voiced their desire for a new travel-time capable diver from the brand, and DOXA has delivered with the introduction of the SUB 250T GMT. This new model line isn't just about adding a complication; it represents a thoughtful evolution of the SUB concept, merging robust underwater specifications with the practical needs of those who frequently cross time zones, all housed within a newly designed, highly wearable 40mm case. The launch signifies DOXA's continued commitment to its adventurous user base, offering a tool built for exploration both above and below the waves.

The story of DOXA is deeply rooted in the heart of Swiss watchmaking. Founded in 1889 by Georges Ducommun in Le Locle, the brand initially built its reputation on pocket watches and dashboard clocks for the burgeoning automotive and aviation industries. This foundation of precision and reliability laid the groundwork for future innovations. While recognized for various timepieces throughout the early 20th century, DOXA's most defining chapter began in the 1960s when they turned their attention towards the demanding environment of underwater exploration, a move that would forever shape the brand's identity and secure its place in dive watch history.



The pivotal moment arrived in 1967 with the launch of the original DOXA SUB 300. This wasn't merely another dive watch; it was a product born from genuine collaboration with diving professionals, including the legendary Jacques-Yves Cousteau and his US Divers team. Recognizing the critical need for enhanced safety and legibility underwater, DOXA introduced several groundbreaking features. Most notable was the patented unidirectional rotating bezel incorporating the US Navy's no-decompression dive time limits. This allowed divers to align the minute hand with the zero mark on the bezel and easily monitor elapsed dive time against crucial safety parameters. Coupled with a distinctive, high-visibility orange dial chosen after extensive testing for optimal underwater legibility, the DOXA SUB quickly became an indispensable tool for recreational and professional divers alike, setting a new benchmark for the genre.

While the new SUB 250T GMT marks a significant return, it's not the first time DOXA has equipped its divers with a dual-time function. The lineage traces back to the SUB 750T GMT, introduced in 2006. That model, offered in Professional (orange), Sharkhunter (black), Caribbean (blue), and Divingstar (yellow) variants, proved the concept's appeal within the DOXA framework. It demonstrated that the brand's tool-watch ethos could successfully accommodate the added functionality sought by travelers. The positive reception of the 750T GMT planted the seed for a future iteration, and the calls from the DOXA community for a follow-up never ceased, culminating now in the launch of the SUB 250T GMT nearly twenty years later.

The reintroduction of the GMT complication in the SUB 250T is more than just ticking a box for a popular feature; it's a direct response to the evolving needs and expressed desires of the brand's dedicated following. In today's interconnected world, the ability to track a second time zone is immensely practical. For frequent flyers, it means easily keeping track of home time while acclimating to a new locale. For professionals coordinating across continents, it simplifies scheduling and communication. DOXA's decision to bring back the GMT reaffirms its connection to its user base and its ability to integrate useful complications without compromising the core identity of its robust dive watches. It’s a fusion of heritage diving capability with modern globetrotting utility.

At its heart, the SUB 250T GMT provides clear and intuitive timekeeping across multiple zones. It features the standard display of hours, minutes, and central seconds, supplemented by a practical date window positioned at the 3 o'clock mark. The key addition is the fourth central hand, dedicated to the GMT function. This distinctively styled, skeletonized hand completes a revolution every 24 hours, pointing to a corresponding 24-hour scale typically found on the bezel or chapter ring (depending on the specific execution within the SUB family), allowing the wearer to track a second time zone, often referred to as home time or Zulu time, simultaneously with their local time. This makes the watch an essential piece of gear for anyone navigating different parts of the world.



Central to the new model's appeal is its stainless steel case, measuring a contemporary 40mm in diameter. This size represents a sweet spot for many wearers, offering substantial presence and capability without feeling overly cumbersome for daily wear. It maintains the distinctive cushion-shaped silhouette that has characterized DOXA SUB watches for decades, a design inherently linked to the brand's history and instantly recognizable to enthusiasts. The slightly barrel-like form, combined with relatively short lugs, allows the watch to sit comfortably on a wide range of wrist sizes, enhancing its versatility as both a tool and an everyday companion. The finishing likely involves a mix of brushed and polished surfaces, typical of tool watches, emphasizing durability while adding visual interest.

Despite the addition of the GMT function, the SUB 250T GMT remains unequivocally a DOXA dive watch, built to withstand the pressures of underwater environments. It incorporates the essential features that have defined the SUB line for over half a century. Chief among these is the patented unidirectional rotating bezel, a critical safety feature for divers allowing them to track elapsed time without the risk of accidentally extending their dive duration. A robust screw-down crown ensures the integrity of the case against water ingress, contributing to the watch's impressive water resistance rating of 25 ATM, equivalent to approximately 250 meters or 820 feet. This depth rating confirms its suitability for serious recreational diving.

The bezel itself deserves closer examination, as it's a hallmark of the DOXA SUB design. It typically features a dual scale: an outer ring marked with dive depth indications (often in feet) corresponding to no-decompression limits, and an inner ring marked with a standard 60-minute scale for timing events. The edge is usually serrated or heavily grooved, providing excellent grip even when operated with wet hands or diving gloves. The unidirectional rotation ensures that any accidental knocks will only shorten the perceived dive time, never lengthen it, a crucial safety aspect. Visually, the combination of polished and often brushed or matte finishes on the bezel insert adds a distinct look that is both functional and aesthetically pleasing.

Protecting the dial is a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. Modern dive watches almost universally employ sapphire due to its exceptional hardness, second only to diamond, ensuring the watch face remains clear and free from scratches during demanding activities. An anti-reflective coating is applied to the crystal's surface (often on the underside, sometimes both sides) to minimize glare and maximize legibility in various lighting conditions, from bright sunlight on deck to the dimmer conditions found underwater. The dial beneath is designed for clarity, featuring bold, applied hour markers and substantial hands, typically coated with luminescent material for visibility in low light. The overall layout prioritizes quick and accurate reading of the time.



A significant part of the SUB 250T GMT launch is the extensive color palette offered, catering to a wide range of tastes and preferences. The collection includes all eight of DOXA's signature colorways, each bringing a different personality to the watch. These are the iconic Professional orange, the classic Searambler silver with its sunburst finish, the deep Sharkhunter black, the nautical Caribbean navy blue, the vibrant Divingstar yellow, the bright Aquamarine turquoise, the crisp Whitepearl white, and the rich Sea Emerald green, also featuring a sunburst finish. This variety ensures there's a SUB 250T GMT to match almost any style or adventure.

The Professional orange variant is perhaps the most emblematic of DOXA. Its intense, almost fluorescent orange dial wasn't chosen arbitrarily; it was the result of testing aimed at finding the color with the best visibility at depth. This vibrant hue has become synonymous with the brand and remains a favorite among collectors and diving purists. It makes a bold statement on the wrist and guarantees instant recognition as a DOXA SUB. The contrast with the typically black bezel markings and white hands ensures maximum legibility in challenging underwater conditions.

For those preferring a more traditional look, the Sharkhunter offers a deep, matte black dial. This provides a stark, high-contrast background for the hands and markers, delivering excellent readability in a classic dive watch style. Complementing this is the Searambler, which features a metallic silver dial, often finished with a sunburst pattern that radiates outwards from the center. This finish plays with the light beautifully, giving the watch a slightly more refined appearance while still maintaining the essential tool watch character and clear legibility expected from a DOXA.

The Caribbean blue presents a rich, deep navy hue, evoking the colors of the ocean depths. It offers a distinctively nautical feel, less common than black but equally versatile as a daily wear option. In contrast, the Divingstar yellow provides an explosion of bright color. Like the Professional orange, the yellow was chosen for its high visibility properties, offering another bold and functional choice for those who want their watch to stand out and be instantly readable in any environment, whether exploring a reef or navigating a busy city street.



Rounding out the standard color options are the Aquamarine, Whitepearl, and Sea Emerald. The Aquamarine offers a bright, crystal turquoise dial, reminiscent of shallow tropical waters, providing a fresh and summery vibe. The Whitepearl delivers a clean, pure white dial, offering maximum contrast with black dial elements for superb legibility and a crisp, modern aesthetic. Finally, the Sea Emerald introduces a rich sunburst green dial, adding a touch of earthy sophistication to the lineup, a color that has gained significant popularity in the watch world recently.

Beyond the eight standard colors, DOXA introduces a special variant within the SUB 250T GMT collection: a vintage-inspired Sharkhunter edition. This model stands out with several unique features paying homage to DOXA's past. Most notably, it features the brand's first-ever gradient dial. The dial transitions subtly in shade, likely from a lighter tone in the center to a darker periphery, creating a sense of depth and recalling the aesthetics of vintage timepieces. Furthermore, this edition utilizes distinctive all-white hands, a specific nod to certain historical Sharkhunter models, enhancing its retro character. This thoughtful execution merges historical reverence with modern functionality.

Driving the SUB 250T GMT is a reliable Swiss automatic movement, selected for its proven performance and durability. It operates at a standard frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4.0 Hz), which contributes to the smooth sweep of the seconds hand and provides good timekeeping accuracy. DOXA specifies a healthy power reserve of 50 hours, meaning the watch can be taken off for a couple of days and still be running when picked up again. While likely concealed behind a solid case back appropriate for a dive watch, DOXA mentions its distinctive finishing on the movement, indicating attention to detail even in unseen components. The emphasis is on robust, dependable performance suitable for an adventure-ready watch.

DOXA understands the importance of strap and bracelet choices in complementing a watch's character and ensuring wearer comfort. The SUB 250T GMT is offered with two excellent options. The first is a high-quality FKM rubber strap, precisely color-matched to each of the available dial colors. FKM rubber is known for its superior resistance to heat, chemicals, and UV light, as well as its softness and flexibility, making it extremely comfortable for all-day wear, especially during active pursuits or in varying temperatures. It’s an ideal choice for those who prioritize comfort, durability, and a sporty aesthetic.

Alternatively, buyers can opt for DOXA's famed stainless steel "beads of rice" bracelet. This style of bracelet, characterized by its small, rice-grain-shaped center links flanked by larger outer links, is renowned for its exceptional comfort and flexibility, conforming smoothly to the wrist. It has become an iconic part of the DOXA SUB's identity over the decades, adding a distinct vintage charm while remaining highly practical. Both the FKM rubber strap and the "beads of rice" bracelet are equipped with a secure folding clasp that includes a convenient diving suit extension, allowing the watch to be easily worn over the sleeve of a wetsuit.



The launch of the SUB 250T GMT demonstrates DOXA's ability to evolve while remaining firmly anchored in its rich heritage. It successfully integrates a highly requested and practical complication into the established SUB framework, creating a timepiece that feels both familiar and fresh. The new 40mm case size broadens its appeal, offering the brand's signature robustness and professional-grade dive capabilities in a package that is comfortable and wearable for a wider audience. It’s a watch built for the demands of modern life, capable of transitioning seamlessly from underwater exploration to navigating international airports or daily routines.

The DOXA SUB 250T GMT became available starting March 26, 2025. It is offered through DOXA's network of authorized retailers worldwide, as well as directly via the brand's official e-commerce website. Pricing is positioned competitively within the Swiss-made dive watch segment, starting at $2,450 USD for models equipped with the FKM rubber strap, and $2,490 USD for those paired with the stainless steel "beads of rice" bracelet. This pricing reflects DOXA's long-standing philosophy of offering high-quality, purpose-built timepieces at accessible price points, providing considerable value given the watch's features, heritage, and Swiss automatic GMT movement.

Case: 40mm stainless steel case. Patented unidirectional rotating bezel with diving scales. Screw-down crown. Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Water resistant to 25 ATM (250 meters / ~820 feet).

Movement: Swiss automatic movement. GMT function. Date indication. Frequency: 28,800 vph (4.0 Hz). Power reserve: 50 hours. Features DOXA's distinctive finishing.

Dial: Hours, minutes, seconds, date window at 3 o'clock, skeletonized GMT hand. Available in Professional Orange, Searambler Silver, Sharkhunter Black, Caribbean Navy Blue, Divingstar Yellow, Aquamarine Turquoise, Whitepearl White, Sea Emerald Green, and a special vintage Sharkhunter Gradient dial with all-white hands.

Strap: Available with either a color-matched FKM rubber strap or a stainless steel "beads of rice" bracelet. Both options include a folding clasp with a diving suit extension.

Price: Starting from $2,450 USD / CHF 2,350 / EUR 2,550 (rubber strap) and $2,490 USD (steel bracelet).

Notes: Marks the return of the GMT function to the DOXA SUB collection after nearly 20 years. Introduced in a new 40mm case size. Includes a special vintage Sharkhunter edition with DOXA's first gradient dial. 18 new references total. Available from March 26, 2025.