For watch enthusiasts, the name
Doxa is synonymous with dive watches. Founded in 1860 by Georges Ducommun in Switzerland, the company built a reputation for quality timepieces throughout the late 19th and early 20th centuries. However, it was the release of the legendary DOXA SUB in 1967 that truly cemented the brand’s place in horological history.
Designed in collaboration with legendary underwater explorer Jacques Cousteau and his team, the DOXA SUB was purpose-built to meet the exacting needs of professional divers. The watch’s bright orange dial, a color scientifically proven to be highly visible underwater, offered superior legibility in even the murkiest depths. The unidirectional rotating bezel with its integrated US Navy no-decompression limit table was another groundbreaking innovation, allowing divers to track their dive time and ascent rates to avoid decompression sickness. The SUB’s rugged construction, water resistance to a depth of 200 meters, and reliable Swiss automatic movement made it an invaluable tool for underwater exploration.
Courtesy of DOXA
The SUB quickly gained a devoted following amongst professional divers and recreational enthusiasts alike. Its bold design and technical prowess made it a standout amongst dive watches of the era. Even today, the original DOXA SUB remains a highly sought-after collector’s item.
Over the decades since its introduction, the DOXA SUB has evolved while staying true to its core principles. The SUB 2000, released in 1969, incorporated a helium release valve for saturation diving. The SUB 300T, introduced in 1999, increased the water resistance to 300 meters. These innovations reflected the changing needs of professional divers and the increasing popularity of technical diving.
In 2024, DOXA unveiled a new chapter in the SUB’s legacy with the introduction of the SUB 200T Professional. The new watch pays homage to the original SUB while incorporating modern design elements and technical advancements.
The SUB 200T Professional captures the essence of the original SUB in a compact and contemporary package. The most noticeable change is the case size. Measuring 39mm in diameter and 10.7mm thick, the SUB 200T is significantly smaller than its predecessors. This reduction in size makes the watch more comfortable to wear on a wider range of wrists, a welcome change for those who find traditional dive watches too bulky.
Courtesy of DOXA
Despite its smaller size, the SUB 200T Professional retains the core functionality of a professional dive watch. The watch is constructed from high-grade 316L stainless steel, ensuring durability and corrosion resistance. The unidirectional rotating bezel with integrated dive table is a hallmark DOXA feature and is present on the SUB 200T Professional. The bezel’s markings are crisp and easy to read, and the bezel itself operates with smooth, satisfying clicks.
The screw-down crown ensures the watch remains water-resistant to a depth of 200 meters. The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating provides a clear view of the dial. The hands and hour markers are coated with Super-LumiNova® luminescent material, guaranteeing excellent legibility in low-light conditions.
The SUB 200T Professional comes in a variety of dial colors, but the version we’ll be focusing on here is the classic professional orange. This vibrant color, a signature element of DOXA dive watches, offers unmatched underwater legibility. The orange dial features a sunray finish that catches the light and adds a touch of sophistication. The black contrasting hands are easily distinguishable against the orange dial, making it easy to read the time at a glance. A date window sits at the 3 o’clock position, rounding out the dial’s functionality.
The SUB 200T Professional comes equipped with a Swiss automatic movement with a power reserve of 38 hours. The movement is decorated with exclusive DOXA markings, a subtle nod to the brand’s rich heritage.
Courtesy of DOXA
The SUB 200T Professional's impact goes far beyond its technical specifications. The watch possesses a distinct personality that makes it a joy to own and wear. Its smaller dimensions ensure a comfortable fit on most wrists, making it a true contender for daily wear. The rubber strap reinforces this versatility and offers a secure fit in wet conditions. But make no mistake, this new DOXA isn't just about comfort; it delivers pure dive watch attitude with its vibrant colors and robust construction.
The unidirectional rotating bezel is a standout feature of the SUB 200T Professional. Made of stainless steel with engraved markings, it rotates smoothly and confidently with precise clicks for every minute increment. The engraved US Navy no-decompression limit table is not just a nod to dive-watch heritage, but a potentially lifesaving tool for divers who choose to plan dives the old-fashioned way. The bezel's unique, almost saw-tooth like edge ensures a solid grip even with wet hands or while wearing dive gloves.
The screw-down crown is another tactile delight on this watch. With clear threading and a satisfyingly firm action, it instills confidence that the watch's 200-meter water resistance is well secured. Beneath it, the automatic movement beats reliably, a reminder of the Swiss craftsmanship that lies at the heart of the SUB 200T Professional.
The sapphire crystal is a crucial element, offering scratch resistance, clarity, and subtle distortion near the edges for a vintage dive watch vibe. It's through this crystal that the true impact of the SUB 200T Professional's orange dial becomes evident. This isn't just a splash of color – it's a functional tool for divers operating in reduced light underwater. The sunray finish adds a dynamic, shifting quality to the dial as it catches the light. The combination of orange and black elements ensures optimal legibility whether you're diving the depths or strolling down a sunny street.
Courtesy of DOXA
The Superluminova coating on the hands and markers is generous, creating a torch-like glow when charged. For those who venture into darkened environments – whether exploring a wreck or simply finding their way in a dimly lit room – the SUB 200T Professional delivers clear timekeeping without needing to strain your eyes.
The DOXA SUB 200T Professional stands out in several categories, making it a worthy successor to the iconic SUB models that came before:
History & Heritage: The new SUB 200T Professional carries forward the DOXA legacy of designing purpose-built dive watches. DOXA's history with Jacques Cousteau and their long-standing dedication to functional divers' tools resonates with those who appreciate this rich background.
Functionality: This is more than just a pretty face. The SUB 200T Professional's specifications and features, such as the rotating bezel, water-resistance, and legible dial, ensure that it works as it should in demanding underwater scenarios.
Contemporary Style: The new size and vibrant color options make the SUB 200T Professional appealing to a wide audience of watch enthusiasts. It can seamlessly transition between underwater exploration and everyday wear without feeling out of place.
Courtesy of DOXA
The SUB 200T Professional embodies the spirit of classic DOXA dive watches while incorporating modern sensibilities. It is a watch that respects its history but isn't afraid to chart its own course. For dive enthusiasts, the SUB 200T Professional offers a compelling combination of functionality, comfort, and style. For collectors, it represents the next chapter in the evolution of one of the most iconic dive watches of all time. And, for anyone who appreciates a beautifully crafted watch with a purposeful design, the SUB 200T Professional is simply a joy to own and wear.
The DOXA SUB story is far from over. The SUB 200T Professional is a testament to the brand's enduring commitment to creating professional-grade dive watches with broad appeal to those with an appreciation for dive watch history.