• De Bethune DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon a Symphony of Blue
  • De Bethune DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon

    A Symphony of Blue

    Hourstriker Staff
    Words by: Hourstriker Staff
    June 25, 2024
  • Among the luminaries of exquisite watchmakers, De Bethune shines brightly, renowned for its avant-garde approach, innovative materials, and unwavering commitment to pushing the boundaries of horological artistry. The brand's latest creation, the DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon, is a testament to this spirit of innovation and a captivating ode to the mesmerizing allure of the color blue.

    Before we delve into the intricacies of the DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon, it's essential to understand the rich tapestry of De Bethune's horological heritage. Founded in 2002 by Denis Flageollet and David Zanetta, the brand quickly established itself as a trailblazer in the industry, defying conventions and reimagining the very essence of watchmaking. De Bethune's timepieces are characterized by their distinctive aesthetics, often featuring unconventional case shapes, innovative materials like blued titanium, and groundbreaking complications. The brand's dedication to precision and performance is matched only by its passion for artistic expression, resulting in watches that are not merely instruments of timekeeping but wearable works of art.

    Courtesy of De Bethune
    Courtesy of De Bethune


    The DB28 collection, in particular, has become a hallmark of De Bethune's design philosophy. Introduced in 2010, the DB28 watch was a radical departure from traditional watchmaking norms, featuring a unique "floating lug" system that ensured optimal comfort and adaptability to the wearer's wrist. The collection quickly garnered acclaim for its innovative design, technical prowess, and undeniable elegance.

    The DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon represents the culmination of De Bethune's expertise in both technical innovation and artistic expression. Limited to a mere 20 pieces, this exceptional timepiece is a seamless fusion of two iconic models from De Bethune's repertoire: the DB28XP and the DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon.

    As its name suggests, the DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon is a monochromatic masterpiece, adorned in various shades of blue that evoke the vastness of the sky and the depths of the ocean. The 43mm case, crafted from grade 5 titanium, showcases a mesmerizing blue hue achieved through a meticulous process of natural oxidation. This technique not only imparts a captivating visual depth but also ensures that each watch possesses a unique and inimitable patina.

    The dial, a mesmerizing expanse of blued titanium, is a testament to De Bethune's mastery of traditional craftsmanship and cutting-edge technology. The intricate Microlight pattern, reminiscent of the Milky Way galaxy, is created using laser beam micro-milling, a technique that pushes the boundaries of precision and artistry. The delicate gold leaf accents further enhance the dial's visual appeal, creating a harmonious interplay of light and shadow.

    Courtesy of De Bethune
    Courtesy of De Bethune


    One of the most striking features of the DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon is its ultra-thin profile. Measuring a mere 9.1mm in thickness, the watch is a marvel of engineering, housing a complex tourbillon movement within a remarkably slender case. This feat of miniaturization is a testament to De Bethune's unwavering commitment to technical excellence and its relentless pursuit of horological perfection. The case also retains the signature floating lugs of the DB28 collection, ensuring unparalleled comfort and a seamless integration with the wearer's wrist.

    At the heart of the DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon beats the DB2009V5 caliber, a mechanical hand-wound movement that exemplifies De Bethune's dedication to innovation and precision. The movement is comprised of 380 meticulously crafted components, each finished and decorated by hand to the highest standards of haute horlogerie.

    The DB2009V5 caliber features a self-regulating twin barrel system, a De Bethune innovation that ensures a consistent power delivery and a remarkable five-day power reserve. The titanium balance wheel, equipped with white gold inserts, is another testament to the brand's ingenuity, offering enhanced stability and resistance to shocks and temperature variations.

    However, the centerpiece of the movement is undoubtedly the tourbillon, a horological complication that has long captivated watch enthusiasts and collectors alike. De Bethune's tourbillon is a marvel of engineering, featuring an ultra-lightweight titanium cage that rotates at a breathtaking speed of 36,000 vibrations per hour. The tourbillon's intricate construction and rapid rotation not only enhance the watch's precision but also create a mesmerizing visual spectacle, as the delicate cage dances gracefully within its blued titanium frame.

    Courtesy of De Bethune
    Courtesy of De Bethune


    The tourbillon, often referred to as the "king of complications," is a testament to the ingenuity and craftsmanship of watchmakers. Its primary function is to counteract the effects of gravity on a watch's accuracy, ensuring consistent timekeeping regardless of the watch's position. De Bethune's approach to the tourbillon, however, goes beyond mere functionality, transforming this complex mechanism into a captivating spectacle of mechanical artistry.

    The tourbillon in the DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon is a marvel of miniaturization and precision engineering. The cage, crafted from lightweight titanium, rotates on its axis once every 30 seconds, carrying the balance wheel and escapement along with it. This constant rotation averages out the effects of gravity, ensuring that the watch maintains its accuracy even when subjected to the wearer's wrist movements.

    What sets De Bethune's tourbillon apart is its exceptional speed and lightness. The cage, weighing a mere 0.18 grams, is the lightest tourbillon cage ever created. This featherweight construction allows it to rotate at an astonishing speed of 36,000 vibrations per hour, a frequency that significantly enhances the watch's precision.

    Courtesy of De Bethune
    Courtesy of De Bethune


    The tourbillon's design is not only technically impressive but also visually captivating. The blued titanium bridge, shaped like a futuristic spacecraft, adds a touch of whimsy and modernity to the watch's aesthetic. The intricate interplay of light and shadow on the polished surfaces of the tourbillon components further enhances its visual appeal, creating a mesmerizing dance of mechanical elements.

    Beyond the tourbillon, the DB2009V5 caliber that powers the DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon is a testament to De Bethune's unwavering commitment to technical excellence. The movement is a symphony of meticulously crafted components, each playing a crucial role in ensuring the watch's accuracy, reliability, and longevity.

    One of the standout features of the DB2009V5 caliber is its self-regulating twin barrel system. This innovative design ensures a consistent flow of energy to the movement, resulting in a stable amplitude and a remarkable five-day power reserve. The balance wheel, made of titanium with white gold inserts, is another testament to De Bethune's ingenuity, offering superior performance and resistance to external influences.

    The movement's finishing is a testament to the brand's dedication to artisanal craftsmanship. Each component is meticulously hand-finished and decorated, with techniques such as anglage, perlage, and Côtes de Genève adorning the bridges and plates. The result is a movement that is not only technically impressive but also visually stunning, a true work of art in miniature.

    The DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon is more than just a watch; it is a testament to De Bethune's unwavering commitment to innovation, technical mastery, and artistic expression. From its captivating blue aesthetic to its groundbreaking tourbillon and meticulously crafted movement, this timepiece is a true masterpiece of haute horlogerie.

    Courtesy of De Bethune
    Courtesy of De Bethune


    With a limited production of only 20 pieces, the DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon is a rare and exclusive creation that is sure to captivate the hearts of watch enthusiasts and collectors alike. Its price, a reflection of its rarity and exceptional craftsmanship, is a testament to its status as a horological icon.

    For those fortunate enough to acquire this exceptional timepiece, the DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon is not merely a watch but a wearable work of art, a symbol of their discerning taste and appreciation for the finer things in life. It is a watch that transcends its utilitarian function, becoming a cherished heirloom that will be passed down through generations, a reminder of the enduring legacy of De Bethune and its unwavering pursuit of horological excellence.
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