The world of haute horlogerie is one where innovation and tradition often dance a delicate ballet, each pushing the other to new heights. De Bethune, a relatively young maison founded in 2002, has consistently been at the forefront of this dance, challenging established norms and redefining the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking. Their latest creation, the DB28xs Steel Wheels, is a testament to their unwavering commitment to pushing the envelope.
At first glance, the DB28xs Steel Wheels might appear to be a simple exercise in miniaturization, a scaled-down version of the iconic DB28 Steel Wheels. However, a closer look reveals a timepiece that is far more than the sum of its parts. It's a microcosm of horological ingenuity, a watch that encapsulates De Bethune's relentless pursuit of technical excellence and aesthetic refinement.
Courtesy of De Bethune
To truly appreciate the DB28xs Steel Wheels, one must first understand the rich tapestry of innovation that
De Bethune has woven over the past two decades. Founded by Denis Flageollet and David Zanetta, the maison quickly gained recognition for its groundbreaking approach to watchmaking. They weren't content with simply following the well-trodden paths of traditional horology; they wanted to forge their own, pushing the boundaries of what was possible.
From the outset, De Bethune focused on developing in-house movements that were not only technically advanced but also visually striking. They embraced unconventional materials like titanium and silicon, and they pioneered new techniques for finishing and decorating their movements. The result was a collection of timepieces that were as beautiful as they were innovative.
One of De Bethune's most iconic creations is the DB28, a watch that has become synonymous with the brand's avant-garde spirit. Launched in 2010, the DB28 featured a distinctive case design with floating lugs, a patented innovation that ensured optimal comfort on the wrist. It also showcased De Bethune's mastery of openworked dials, revealing the intricate mechanics of the movement within.
The DB28 Steel Wheels, introduced in 2018, took this concept of transparency to new heights. Its openworked dial, framed by the signature delta-shaped bridge, offered an unobstructed view of the watch's inner workings. The interplay of light and shadow on the various components created a mesmerizing spectacle, a testament to De Bethune's artistry and technical prowess.
With the DB28xs Steel Wheels, De Bethune has embarked on a new chapter in its horological journey. The challenge was not merely to shrink the dimensions of the DB28 Steel Wheels but to do so without sacrificing any of its technical or aesthetic integrity. It was a delicate balancing act, one that required a meticulous re-engineering of the movement and a thoughtful reconsideration of the case design.
The result is a timepiece that measures a mere 38.7mm in diameter and 8mm in thickness, making it one of the most compact watches in De Bethune's collection. But don't let its diminutive size fool you; this watch packs a serious horological punch.
Courtesy of De Bethune
The openworked dial, crafted from satin-finished titanium, provides a captivating glimpse into the heart of the watch. The titanium barrel bridge, adorned with microlight decoration and sandblasted chamfers, adds a touch of visual depth and texture. The polished titanium dial base further enhances the sense of refinement and sophistication.
The hands, crafted from polished blued titanium, gracefully sweep across the dial, indicating the hours and minutes. Their slender profile and elegant curves perfectly complement the overall aesthetic of the watch.
The case, fashioned from polished grade 5 titanium, is a marvel of engineering and craftsmanship. Its flowing lines and sculpted curves create a sense of dynamism and fluidity, while the patented floating lugs ensure a comfortable and secure fit on the wrist.
The sapphire crystal, with its double anti-reflective treatment, offers an unobstructed view of the dial and its intricate details. The crown, discreetly positioned at 12 o'clock, allows for easy winding and setting of the watch.
Turning the watch over, one is greeted by another sapphire crystal, revealing the meticulously finished movement within. The linear power reserve indicator, adorned with microlight decoration, provides a visual reminder of the watch's impressive 6-day power reserve.
Measuring a mere 30mm in diameter, the Caliber DB2115V13 is a feat of micro-engineering, comprising 241 meticulously assembled components. Every part, from the tiniest screw to the largest bridge, is hand-finished and decorated to the highest standards of haute horlogerie. The result is a movement that is not only technically impressive but also visually stunning.
One of the standout features of the Caliber DB2115V13 is its self-regulating twin barrel, a De Bethune innovation that ensures a constant supply of energy to the movement. This translates to improved chronometric performance and a remarkable 6-day power reserve, a 20% increase compared to its predecessor.
Courtesy of De Bethune
The titanium balance wheel, equipped with white gold inserts, is another testament to De Bethune's technical prowess. This patented design optimizes the inertia and regulation of the balance, contributing to the watch's exceptional accuracy.
The "De Bethune" balance-spring, with its flat terminal curve, is yet another innovation that sets this movement apart. This patented design enhances the isochronism of the balance, further improving the watch's timekeeping capabilities.
The use of a silicon escape wheel is a nod to De Bethune's embrace of cutting-edge materials. Silicon's low friction and resistance to wear make it an ideal material for this critical component, ensuring smooth and reliable operation of the movement.
The triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system, another De Bethune innovation, protects the movement from shocks and impacts, ensuring its longevity and reliability.
The DB28xs Steel Wheels is not just a watch; it's a statement piece, a testament to the wearer's appreciation for fine watchmaking and innovative design. Its 38.7mm titanium case strikes the perfect balance between elegance and wearability, making it suitable for a wide range of wrist sizes.
The openworked dial, with its intricate details and captivating depth, is a conversation starter, inviting admirers to delve deeper into the watch's mechanical intricacies. The interplay of light and shadow on the various components creates a mesmerizing spectacle, a testament to De Bethune's artistry and technical prowess.
Courtesy of De Bethune
The DB28xs Steel Wheels is a watch that rewards close inspection. Every detail, from the hand-finished movement to the meticulously crafted case, speaks volumes about De Bethune's unwavering commitment to excellence. It's a watch that will be cherished by collectors and enthusiasts for generations to come.
While the technical specifications of the DB28xs Steel Wheels are undoubtedly impressive, they only tell part of the story. This watch is more than just a collection of gears and springs; it's an embodiment of De Bethune's philosophy, a testament to their relentless pursuit of innovation and their unwavering dedication to craftsmanship.
It's a watch that challenges the status quo, that dares to be different. It's a watch that celebrates the beauty of mechanics, that invites the wearer to appreciate the intricate dance of its inner workings.
The DB28xs Steel Wheels is a testament to the enduring appeal of mechanical watchmaking in an increasingly digital world. It's a reminder that there's still a place for artistry, craftsmanship, and innovation in an era dominated by mass production and disposable technology.
With the DB28xs Steel Wheels, De Bethune has once again demonstrated its ability to push the boundaries of horological innovation. This watch is not just a new addition to their collection; it's a testament to their legacy of excellence, a reminder that they are a force to be reckoned with in the world of haute horlogerie.
As Denis Flageollet, the co-founder of De Bethune, once said, "There is no point in working unless it is to progress, and the only way to achieve that is by constantly questioning oneself." The DB28xs Steel Wheels is a testament to this philosophy, a watch that embodies De Bethune's relentless pursuit of progress and their unwavering commitment to pushing the boundaries of what is possible in the world of mechanical watchmaking.
Courtesy of De Bethune
The De Bethune DB28xs Steel Wheels is a remarkable timepiece that seamlessly blends technical innovation, aesthetic refinement, and exceptional wearability. It's a watch that will appeal to discerning collectors who appreciate fine craftsmanship, groundbreaking design, and the enduring allure of mechanical watchmaking.
While the retail price for the DB28xs Steel Wheels has not been officially announced, it is expected to be in line with De Bethune's other high-end offerings. For those who value exclusivity, innovation, and the artistry of mechanical watchmaking, the DB28xs Steel Wheels is a timepiece that is sure to capture their hearts and imaginations. It's a watch that transcends the concept of simple timekeeping; it's a work of art, a testament to the enduring spirit of human ingenuity and creativity.