De Bethune stands as a unique entity in the landscape of contemporary watchmaking. Founded by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet, the manufacture quickly distinguished itself through a radical approach combining futuristic aesthetics with profound respect for traditional horological techniques, constantly pushing the boundaries of mechanical innovation. Their creations often look unlike anything else on the market, characterized by distinctive case shapes, blued titanium elements, and technologically advanced movements. The brand represents a fusion of artistry and high-mechanics, appealing to collectors seeking something truly different.
The journey of
De Bethune took an interesting turn in 2019. Denis Flageollet, the master watchmaker behind the brand's technical wizardry, steered the manufacture towards the realm of sports watches. This marked the introduction of the DB28GS Grand Bleu, De Bethune’s first dedicated diving instrument. It wasn't just about adding a rotating bezel and increasing water resistance; it was about translating the core De Bethune philosophy—technical innovation, unique materials, and exceptional finishing—into a watch built for performance under pressure. This move opened a new chapter, proving that high-concept watchmaking and robust functionality could coexist.
Courtesy of De Bethune
Following the path laid by the Grand Bleu, De Bethune introduces the DB28GS Swordfish, reference DB28GSV2BB. This model inherits the bold character established by its predecessor but carves its own identity with a striking bi-chromatic theme. It’s conceived as a tool for divers, ensuring maximum legibility of both the current time and elapsed immersion time, even in the challenging, low-visibility conditions found deep underwater, day or night. It represents a continuation of De Bethune’s exploration into the sports watch category, refining the aesthetics and technical features further.
The DB28GS Swordfish immediately presents a powerful visual statement, dominated by a captivating interplay between deep blacks and vibrant blues. This isn't a simple black watch; it's an exploration of the shade, utilizing various materials and finishing techniques to create a spectrum of black tones. The design feels both technical and refined, embodying the spirit of its predecessors while introducing this new, contrasting colour scheme that feels simultaneously mysterious and assertive.
At the heart of its construction is a 44mm diameter case, measuring 12.8mm in thickness. The case middle is crafted from black zirconium, a material known for its hardness and resistance to scratches and corrosion. This section features De Bethune's intricate "Microlight" decoration, a signature guilloché pattern that adds texture and visual depth. Contrasting this are the bezel and caseback, both made from hardened stainless steel that has been finished with a combination of black brushing and polishing, contributing to the varied black textures across the watch.
The craftsmanship evident in the Swordfish speaks volumes about the skills housed within the De Bethune workshops in L'Auberson. The quality of the finishing is paramount, showcasing expertise in handling challenging materials like zirconium and Grade 5 titanium through oxidation processes, alongside the durable DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) treatment applied to the hardened stainless steel components. This meticulous combination results in a depth of black that shifts from matte to glossy depending on the light and angle, punctuated dramatically by the signature De Bethune blue.
Courtesy of De Bethune
A defining feature of many DB28 models, including the Swordfish, is the patented floating lug system (De Bethune Patent 2006). These articulated lugs are not fixed to the case but pivot, allowing the watch to conform comfortably to the wearer's wrist, regardless of its size or movement. For the Swordfish, these lugs are fashioned from black brushed hardened stainless steel, further enhancing the dark theme. A notable detail is the addition of blued polished Grade 5 titanium inserts within the lugs, echoing the blue accents found elsewhere on the watch and adding a touch of sophisticated contrast.
The resilience of these floating lugs is bolstered by a Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC) coating. De Bethune emphasizes that applying this coating to ultra-hardened stainless steel, as done here, provides significantly better shock resistance compared to DLC applied to softer materials like standard 316L steel or titanium, which are more common in the industry. This technical choice underscores the brand’s commitment to durability and performance, ensuring the lugs not only look good but can withstand the rigors associated with a sports watch.
Positioned unconventionally at 12 o'clock, the crown maintains the symmetry of the case design and prevents digging into the wearer's wrist during activity. It offers two positions for setting the time and winding the movement. Protecting the dial is a robust sapphire crystal, boasting a Vickers hardness rating of 1800 and treated with a double anti-reflective coating to minimize glare and maximize clarity. The open caseback, crafted from black polished hardened stainless steel, offers a view of the intricate movement within, secured to ensure water resistance.
Turning attention to the dial, legibility is clearly the primary focus. The main dial component indicating the minutes is made from black satin-brushed Grade 5 titanium, featuring large, cut-out Arabic numerals that provide a clear view through to the movement components beneath. This layered construction adds significant visual depth. Positioned discreetly between 9 and 10 o’clock is the power reserve indicator, essential for tracking the energy remaining in the hand-wound movement.
The hands themselves are distinctively De Bethune. The hour and minute hands are crafted from titanium and feature a complex structure with black polished steel inserts complemented by a second insert made of blued polished titanium. Luminescent material applied to the tips ensures they are visible in low light. The seconds hand is a slender piece of polished blued titanium, also equipped with a luminescent tip, sweeping smoothly around the dial. These carefully selected materials and finishes contribute significantly to the immediate readability of the time.
Courtesy of De Bethune
De Bethune rethinks the conventional diving bezel for the DB28GS Swordfish. Instead of a rotating ring around the case, the Swordfish employs a system where the unidirectional rotating bezel directly turns the watch's sapphire crystal. The crucial minute track for measuring dive times is metallised directly onto this rotating crystal. This innovative approach streamlines the watch's profile, enhances the clarity of the minute scale, and offers a unique, refined method for tracking immersion duration compared to traditional external bezels. The micro-spherical indices on the bezel, made from blued Grade 5 titanium, further aid legibility.
Visibility in darkness is further enhanced by a De Bethune innovation: a fully mechanical dial lighting system (De Bethune Innovation 2019). Activated by a pusher located at 6 o’clock, this system illuminates the watch from within without any batteries or electronics. Pressing the pusher engages a small gear train driven by the movement's twin barrel system. This gear train powers a miniature dynamo, generating enough electrical energy to light up four small white lights positioned at the 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock locations. The effect is a soft, diffused glow that lights up the dial markers and hands.
The genius of this lighting system lies in its mechanical nature, operating much like a bicycle's dynamo light. It provides illumination on demand without impacting the chronometric performance of the main movement. While the function itself is straightforward for the user—simply push the button—the underlying engineering required to miniaturize a dynamo and integrate it seamlessly within the watch movement showcases the remarkable technical prowess of the De Bethune manufacture. It’s a perfect example of functional complexity masked by user simplicity.
Powering the DB28GS Swordfish is the Calibre DB2080, a mechanical hand-wound movement developed and manufactured in-house. This substantial calibre measures 30mm in diameter and comprises 400 individual components, a testament to its complexity. The architecture is visually striking, featuring a mirror-polished and blued Grade 5 titanium motion-work bridge. The plate and barrel bridge covers are crafted from black hand-smoothed Grade 5 titanium, adorned with the intricate "Microlight engraving" pattern (De Bethune Innovation 2007), adding another layer of sophisticated finishing visible through the dial cut-outs and the open caseback.
Courtesy of De Bethune
Further examination of the DB2080 reveals meticulous attention to detail in its finishing. The barrels are hand-snailed, and various steel parts throughout the movement are painstakingly hand-polished, flame-blued, and chamfered to achieve the highest standards of traditional watch decoration. These finishing techniques not only enhance the visual appeal but also contribute to the longevity and smooth operation of the movement components, reflecting De Bethune's commitment to quality at every level.
The movement incorporates several key De Bethune innovations aimed at enhancing performance and reliability. A self-regulating twin barrel system (De Bethune Innovation 2004) provides a substantial power reserve of 5 days, ensuring the watch runs accurately for an extended period between windings. The regulating organ features a titanium balance wheel incorporating white gold inserts (De Bethune Patent 2016), designed to optimize its inertia and maintain stability across temperature variations, crucial for consistent timekeeping.
Precision is further maintained by the proprietary "De Bethune" balance-spring, which features a flat terminal curve (De Bethune Patent 2006). This specific shape helps improve isochronism, ensuring the balance oscillates at a consistent rate regardless of the power reserve level. The escapement utilizes a silicon escape wheel, chosen for its lightweight properties, anti-magnetic nature, and low friction, contributing to the movement's overall efficiency. The calibre operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), a modern standard that balances accuracy and longevity, suitable for an active sports watch. The movement contains 35 jewels to minimize friction at critical points.
Recognizing the demands placed on a sports watch, De Bethune has equipped the DB2080 with its Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system (De Bethune Innovation 2005). This system is designed to protect the delicate balance wheel assembly—the heart of the movement—from physical shocks. It consists of a titanium bridge holding the balance, secured by shock absorbers at both ends (utilizing ruby bearings and blade springs) as well as a central damper. This tripartite protection ensures the balance wheel remains precisely positioned and stable, even when the watch experiences significant impacts. This shock resistance, combined with a water resistance rating of 10 ATM (equivalent to 100 meters), confirms the DB28GS Swordfish is built to withstand demanding environments.
Courtesy of De Bethune
Completing the package, the DB28GS Swordfish is delivered with two strap options to suit different conditions and preferences. The primary strap is made from natural rubber, ideal for water-based activities due to its durability and comfort. An additional canvas and leather strap is also included, offering a different aesthetic for land-based wear. Both straps attach seamlessly to the floating lugs and are secured by a folding clasp made from black brushed hardened stainless steel, matching the case components and providing a secure fit on the wrist.
The De Bethune DB28GS Swordfish, reference DB28GSV2BB, stands as a sophisticated interpretation of a luxury dive watch. It successfully blends the brand's hallmark technical innovation, seen in features like the mechanical lighting system and patented floating lugs, with a bold bi-chromatic design language. The extensive use of black zirconium, hardened steel, and blued titanium, combined with meticulous finishing, creates a visually compelling and robust timepiece. It is available at a retail price of 105,000 CHF or $120,000 USD, positioning it in the upper echelon of sports watches, reflective of the independent watchmaking, advanced materials, and complex engineering involved in its creation.
Case: Black zirconium middle ("Microlight" decoration), black brushed and polished hardened stainless steel bezel and caseback. Diameter 44mm, thickness 12.8mm. Patented floating lugs in black brushed hardened stainless steel with blued polished grade 5 titanium inserts. Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers, double AR coating). Crown at 12 o'clock. Open caseback. Water resistance 10 ATM / 100 meters.
Movement: De Bethune Calibre DB2080, mechanical hand-wound. 30mm diameter, 400 parts, 35 jewels. Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz). Self-regulating twin barrel providing 5-day power reserve. Features titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, "De Bethune" balance-spring with flat terminal curve, silicon escape wheel, triple pare-chute shock absorption, and mechanical dynamo lighting system. Mirror polished/blued titanium bridge, black hand-smoothed titanium plates/bridges with "Microlight engraving".
Dial: Black satin-brushed grade 5 titanium minutes dial, cut-out Arabic numerals. Rotating sapphire bezel crystal with metallised minutes track. Power reserve indicator (9-10 o'clock). Titanium hour/minute hands with black steel/blued titanium inserts and luminescent tips. Polished blued titanium seconds hand with luminescent tip. Four-point mechanical dial lighting activated by pusher at 6 o'clock.
Strap: Natural rubber strap and additional canvas/leather strap. Black brushed hardened stainless steel folding clasp.
Price: 105,000 CHF / $120,000 USD
Reference Number: DB28GSV2BB
Notes: Distinctive dive watch featuring patented floating lugs for enhanced comfort, an innovative unidirectional rotating sapphire crystal bezel for immersion timing, and a unique pusher-activated mechanical lighting system powered by an integrated dynamo, requiring no batteries.