De Bethune DB25 Monopusher Chronograph

De Bethune has introduced a significant addition to its lineup with the DB25 Monopusher Chronograph, Reference DB25Vxs. This timepiece represents a deliberate step by the manufacture, blending classic watchmaking sensibilities with the brand's established reputation for technical innovation. Sized at a contemporary 40mm, it aims to offer sophisticated chronograph functionality within a refined package.

The history of De Bethune is relatively young compared to centuries-old maisons, but its impact is undeniable. Founded by Denis Flageollet, a master watchmaker with a deep respect for horological tradition yet driven by a desire to push technical boundaries, the brand quickly carved out a niche for itself. De Bethune is known for its futuristic designs like the DB28 series, but also for its reinterpretation of classic complications, constantly seeking new materials and mechanical solutions.



The monopusher chronograph holds a particular resonance for the brand and for Flageollet himself. It connects back to De Bethune's earliest days, forming part of their initial horological explorations around 2002. This new DB25 Monopusher Chronograph isn't appearing in a vacuum; it follows a lineage that includes the DB1 from 2002, the DB8 from 2003, the technically ambitious DB28 Maxichrono of 2014, and the more recent DB Eight launched in 2023. The DB25NC, as it's internally designated, marks the fourth iteration in this specific journey.

In designing the DB25NC, De Bethune looked towards the aesthetics prevalent in the 1920s and 1930s. There's also an acknowledged nod to the work of 18th-century watchmaking giants like Jean-Antoine Lépine and Julien Leroy, figures known for their contributions to movement design and refined aesthetics. This historical grounding provides a framework for the watch's visual identity.

Denis Flageollet highlights a consistent starting point for such classically inspired pieces: "For each new model, I always work from a classic foundation of a silvered dial and blued hands." This philosophy is evident in the DB25 Monopusher Chronograph, establishing a familiar visual language while allowing room for De Bethune's unique execution.

The case construction is a key element of the watch's character. Crafted from Grade 5 titanium, it benefits from the material's inherent properties: strength, corrosion resistance, and notably, lightness. The entire case surface is mirror-polished, giving the utilitarian material a lustrous, almost precious appearance. This high polish contrasts with the often-brushed finish seen on titanium sports watches, leaning into the DB25's dressier intentions.

Measuring 40.6 mm in diameter and a relatively slim 9.15 mm in thickness, the case achieves proportions suitable for a wide range of wrists. De Bethune notes that fitting the complex chronograph movement into this reduced diameter was a significant technical hurdle, overcome by their team in L’Auberson without compromising the established look of the DB25 collection.



Distinctive De Bethune design codes are present in the case architecture. The lugs are particularly noteworthy – they are described as cone-shaped or open-worked, featuring ogival (pointed arch) motifs. These tapered forms flow from the round case body, designed to enhance the watch’s geometry and provide a comfortable, conforming fit against the wrist. The bezel is kept deliberately slim, maximizing the visual real estate of the dial.

A key functional element is integrated seamlessly into the design: the chronograph operation. Being a monopusher, all chronograph functions (start, stop, reset) are controlled via a single button. De Bethune has integrated this pusher coaxially within the winding crown located at the traditional 3 o’clock position. This maintains a clean case profile, avoiding the extra pushers found on standard chronographs. The crown itself offers two positions for setting the time.

Protecting the dial is a sapphire crystal. De Bethune specifies its hardness at 1800 Vickers, indicating high scratch resistance. Furthermore, it receives a double anti-reflective treatment to minimize glare and improve clarity, ensuring the intricate details of the dial are easily visible under various lighting conditions.

Turning the watch over reveals an open case back, fitted with another sapphire crystal. This window provides an unobstructed view of the Calibre DB3000 movement within, allowing appreciation of its architecture, finishing, and the dynamic action of the chronograph components when operated.

The dial itself is a study in texture, color, and layout, central to the watch's identity. The main surface is silver-toned and features a hand-executed radiating guilloché pattern divided into 12 sectors. This intricate engraving creates a dynamic play of light across the dial. The objective is clear legibility combined with artisanal craftsmanship.

Positioned prominently at 6 o'clock is the 60-minute chronograph counter. This sub-dial is slightly recessed and features its own distinct decoration: a silvered barleycorn guilloché pattern (also referred to as grain d'orge or engine-turning). This textural contrast not only adds visual depth but also clearly delineates the chronograph minutes from the main time display.



Readability is further emphasized through the selective use of color. De Bethune employs its signature shade of Deep Blue for the Arabic hour numerals, the peripheral minute track, and various indicators. This specific blue provides a sharp contrast against the silvered background, making time-telling quick and intuitive.

The hands contribute significantly to the dial's character. The hour and minute hands follow a classic shape, rendered in blued steel that matches the numerals and track. The central chronograph seconds hand is also crafted from blued titanium and polished, sweeping across the dial when the chronograph is engaged. A smaller blued hand resides within the 6 o'clock sub-dial to track the elapsed minutes.

Beneath the surface ticks the Calibre DB3000, the mechanical heart of the watch. Introduced in 2023 alongside the DB Eight model, this movement represents the 31st calibre entirely designed and produced in-house by De Bethune. It's a testament to the manufacture's vertical integration and commitment to developing its own unique mechanisms.

Denis Flageollet and his technical team reimagined this hand-wound monopusher chronograph movement, incorporating the brand's accumulated knowledge, latest technological advancements, and available resources. The goal was to create a movement that respects classic chronograph architecture while infusing it with contemporary performance and innovation.

The DB3000 measures 30 mm in diameter and consists of 296 individual components. Its chronograph function is controlled by an ultra-thin column wheel, a component often favored in high-end chronographs for its precise and smooth pusher feel. A notable technical feature is the instantaneous 60-minute counter, meaning the minute hand jumps crisply at the conclusion of each minute, rather than creeping gradually. Achieving this instantaneous jump in a compact movement is considered a technical accomplishment.



De Bethune has integrated several of its patented innovations into the DB3000. This includes the distinctive titanium balance wheel, which features white gold inserts around its periphery. Patented in 2016, this design aims to optimize aerodynamic efficiency and maintain a stable rate. It's paired with the "De Bethune" balance spring, characterized by its flat terminal curve (patented in 2006), designed to improve isochronism. A modern silicon escape wheel is also employed, valued for its lightness, anti-magnetic properties, and minimal friction.

The movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), a standard beat rate for modern chronographs that balances accuracy and longevity. It boasts a power reserve of 60 hours, meaning it can run for two and a half days continuously when fully wound. The mechanism incorporates 31 jewels to reduce friction at critical pivot points.

Visible through the sapphire case back, the finishing of the Calibre DB3000 is executed to a high standard, reflecting the meticulous handcraftsmanship De Bethune applies even to parts hidden from view. The chronograph bridges are made of chromium-plated steel and feature extensive flat polishing (also known as mirror polishing or black polishing). The barrels, which store the movement's energy, exhibit hand-snailed decoration. Numerous steel parts throughout the movement are carefully hand-polished and feature chamfered (beveled) edges, highlighting the intricate architecture and demonstrating exceptional attention to detail.

Completing the watch is a strap made from extra-supple alligator leather, ensuring comfort on the wrist. The lining is also alligator leather, signifying a premium approach throughout. The strap attaches to the distinctive cone-shaped lugs, integrating smoothly with the overall case design. The specific color seen often pairs well with the blue elements on the dial, typically a dark blue or black.

In terms of functionality, the watch provides hours and minutes via the central hands. The core complication is the monopusher chronograph, offering a central 60-second counter (the long, blued titanium hand) and the 60-minute instantaneous counter located in the sub-dial at 6 o'clock. All chronograph operations – starting, stopping, and resetting to zero – are managed sequentially through pushes of the single button integrated into the crown.



The De Bethune DB25 Monopusher Chronograph, Ref. DB25Vxs, positions itself as a sophisticated offering for watch collectors and enthusiasts. It appeals to those who appreciate the historical context and mechanical intricacy of a monopusher chronograph, presented with De Bethune's unique blend of classic aesthetics and cutting-edge movement technology. The reduced 40mm size and lightweight titanium construction also enhance its wearability for daily use, offering a discreet yet technically advanced timepiece.

Regarding availability and pricing, De Bethune positions itself at the upper echelon of independent watchmaking. Reflecting the significant degree of hand-finishing and proprietary in-house development involved, pieces like the DB25 Monopusher Chronograph are produced in limited quantities. The price for this model is set at $90,000 USD.

Case: Polished grade 5 titanium, diameter 40.6 mm, thickness 9.15 mm. Cone-shaped lugs. Sapphire crystal (1800 Vickers hardness, double anti-reflective treatment). Open case back. Crown at 3 o’clock with integrated coaxial monopusher button, setting in two positions.

Movement: Calibre DB3000, mechanical hand-wound monopusher chronograph. Diameter 30 mm, 296 parts, 31 jewels. Frequency 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). Power reserve 60 hours. Features De Bethune patented titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts (2016), De Bethune patented balance-spring with flat terminal curve (2006), silicon escape wheel, ultra-thin column wheel, instantaneous 60-minute counter. Finishing includes flat polished chromium-plated steel chronograph bridges, hand-snailed barrels, hand-polished and chamfered steel parts.

Dial: Silver with radiating guilloché in 12 sectors. Blue Arabic numerals. Blued hour and minute hands. Central blued polished titanium chronograph seconds hand. 60-minute counter sub-dial at 6 o'clock with silvered barley grain engine-turned finish and blued hand.

Strap: Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining.

Price: $90,000

Reference Number: DB25Vxs

Notes: This is the fourth monopusher chronograph model from De Bethune. It combines aesthetic inspiration from the 1920s/30s with modern in-house movement technology, including patented components, fitted into a compact 40mm lightweight titanium case. Features hand-decoration on the dial and extensive hand-finishing on the movement.