The new Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription watch emerges as a remarkable testament to the brand's rich heritage and unwavering commitment to exceptional craftsmanship. This timepiece, the second model in the revived Daniel Roth line, pays homage to the brand's founder and his love for ultra-thin dress watches, a passion that dates back to the 1990s. Following the successful launch of the Tourbillon Souscription, this Extra Plat model continues the brand's legacy with a faithful yet modernized interpretation of Roth's original vision.
Daniel Roth, a name synonymous with independent watchmaking excellence, stands alongside other legendary figures like George Daniels, F.P. Journe, and Philippe Dufour. Roth's journey in watchmaking began in his family's workshop in France, followed by training at Audemars Piguet. He later played a pivotal role in the resurgence of Breguet, establishing the brand's first workshop in Le Brassus, Switzerland. In 1988, Roth embarked on his own independent venture, launching his eponymous brand with a wrist-worn Tourbillon housed in a unique double-ellipse case, a design that would become his signature.
Courtesy of Daniel Roth
The Extra Plat Souscription is not just another addition to the catalog; it's a carefully curated piece limited to just 20 examples, each a unique expression of the brand's ethos. This dress watch, with its simple two-hand display, embodies the essence of functional, understated sophistication. It's a watch that doesn't shout for attention but rather whispers its quality and heritage to those who understand and appreciate the nuances of fine watchmaking. The timepiece is crafted in 18k yellow gold, a nod to the original models from the 1990s, and features the same dimensions as the Tourbillon Souscription – 35.5 mm wide and 38.6 mm lengthwise. However, what sets it apart is its svelte profile, standing at a mere 7.70 mm high, a direct result of the newly developed DR002 ultra-thin movement.
The case design is a beautiful blend of tradition and modernity. It retains the iconic double-ellipse form but introduces a perfectly centered godron along its outline, giving it a balanced and refined appearance. The lugs, which are produced as separate components and meticulously soldered to the case middle by hand, have been gently rounded for enhanced visual coherence. They arch downwards, ensuring superior ergonomics and a comfortable fit on the wrist. The craftsmanship involved in the case's construction is a testament to the brand's dedication to traditional methods and attention to detail.
Courtesy of Daniel Roth
The dial of the Extra Plat Souscription is a work of art in its own right. Crafted from solid 18k yellow gold, it features a hand-made clou de Paris guilloche pattern, a hallmark of traditional watchmaking. The dial is composed of two parts – the base and an applied chapter ring – both engine-turned by hand on antique restored machines in La Fabrique du Temps's own guilloche workshop. This intricate process requires an astonishing 10 hours of work per dial, performed by a single artisan, showcasing the brand's commitment to preserving artisanal skills. A subtle yet significant detail is the deep, rich blue print on the dial, echoing the color of the heat-blued hour and minute hands, adding a touch of depth and contrast.
The heart of the Extra Plat Souscription is the all-new DR002 caliber, the second movement conceived by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton for Daniel Roth. This movement is a tribute to both Mr. Roth and the traditions of Swiss Haute Horlogerie. While it echoes the visual style of the DR001 found in the Tourbillon Souscription, the DR002 was developed from the ground up specifically for this model. It's a form movement, taking the same double-ellipse shape as the case, and boasts all the hallmarks of traditional high-end watchmaking, both in construction and decoration. The movement is manual winding, developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the supervision of master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini.
Courtesy of Daniel Roth
The bridges of the DR002 are adorned with rounded, polished bevels, incorporating sharp corners that are only achievable through skilled artisanal finishing. This attention to detail extends to the tactile experience of winding the watch. The winding click, a single piece that's entirely satinated, provides a precise and rewarding feel, a subtle yet important aspect for watch enthusiasts. The movement operates at a 4 Hz frequency and features a free-sprung balance wheel with variable inertia weights for regulation, ensuring stable and accurate timekeeping over extended periods. The single large mainspring delivers a convenient 65-hour power reserve, allowing the watch to run for about three days, making it perfect for weekend wear.
The beauty of the DR002 is discreetly concealed beneath a solid 18k yellow gold case back, a deliberate choice that pays homage to the original Extra Plat watches, which were also equipped with solid backs. This decision underscores the brand's commitment to preserving its heritage while embracing modern watchmaking techniques. The plain case back is engraved with the watch's individual number, which is also found on the dial and the movement, emphasizing the limited-edition nature of the piece. The case measures 38.6mm x 35.5mm, with a very thin thickness of 7.7mm. It is also water resistant up to 30 meters.
Courtesy of Daniel Roth
The technical specifications of the Extra Plat Souscription are as impressive as its aesthetic qualities. The DR002 caliber, a manufacture mechanical movement with manual winding, boasts a power reserve of approximately 65 hours and operates at a frequency of 4 Hz. It measures 31 mm x 28 mm, with a thickness of just 3.1 mm, and comprises 143 components and 21 jewels. The movement's dimensions and specifications are a testament to the engineering prowess of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.
Visually, the Extra Plat Souscription is a stunning timepiece. The yellow gold case exudes warmth and luxury, while the textured dial adds depth and visual interest. The Roman numeral hour markers and the blued hands provide a classic and legible display. The watch is paired with a calfskin leather strap, with a lug width of 20 mm, that complements the overall aesthetic and ensures a comfortable fit. The combination of materials and colors creates a harmonious and sophisticated look that is both timeless and contemporary.
The strap is crafted from high-quality calfskin leather, chosen for its durability and comfort. The 20mm lug width ensures a secure and proportionate fit on the wrist, while the material's natural texture adds a touch of understated sophistication. The strap's color complements the warm tones of the yellow gold case and dial, creating a cohesive and harmonious look. The buckle, likely also crafted from yellow gold, would feature a design that echoes the watch's overall aesthetic, further emphasizing the attention to detail that defines this timepiece.
Courtesy of Daniel Roth
The dial's clou de Paris guilloche pattern is a visual delight. The intricate texture, created through meticulous hand-operated engine turning, catches and reflects light in a captivating manner. The applied chapter ring, also engine-turned, adds another layer of depth and complexity to the dial. The Roman numerals, printed in a deep blue, are elegantly proportioned and easy to read, while the heat-blued hands provide a striking contrast against the yellow gold background. The sub-dial, if present in other variations, would likely be executed with the same level of care and attention to detail, featuring a subtle yet distinct pattern that sets it apart from the main dial.
The pricing of the Extra Plat Souscription is set at 45,000 CHF (excluding taxes), which reflects the watch's limited production run, exceptional craftsmanship, and the use of precious materials. The watch is a limited edition of 20 pieces, with delivery scheduled to begin in January 2025.
Case: Yellow gold 3N. Dimensions 38.6mm x 35.5mm. Thickness 7.7mm. Water resistance 30m. Plain case back engraved with the watch's individual number.
Movement: DR002. Manufacture mechanical movement with manual winding. Developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Power reserve approximately 65 hours. Frequency 4Hz. Dimensions 31 x 28mm. Thickness 3.1mm. 143 components. 21 jewels.
Dial: Yellow gold 3N. Clou de Paris guilloche finish, manufactured in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Features the signature Clou de Paris Guilloche. Requires nearly two entire days of work exclusively for the Guilloche.
Strap: 20mm lug width. Calfskin leather.
Price: 45,000 CHF (Excl. taxes)
Notes: Limited edition of 20 pieces. Pays homage to the brand's founder and his love for ultra-thin dress watches. The second model introduced by the revived Daniel Roth brand.