Christopher Ward has consistently sought to redefine expectations within the watch industry, often blending high-quality Swiss craftsmanship with a direct-to-consumer model that delivers remarkable value. The introduction of The C12 Loco marks another significant stride for the British watchmaker, representing what they term their most ambitious, complex, and resource-intensive launch thus far. This new collection doesn't just introduce new models; it debuts the brand's second in-house movement, the Calibre CW-003, signaling a deeper commitment to advanced watchmaking.
The journey of
Christopher Ward began in 2004, founded on the principle of making premium, Swiss-made mechanical watches more accessible. By adopting an online-only, direct-to-consumer strategy, they bypassed traditional retail markups, building a global customer base across over 100 countries. A pivotal moment arrived with the launch of Calibre SH21 (later designated CW-001), celebrated as the first commercially viable mechanical movement from a British watch brand in over half a century. More recently, their C1 Bel Canto model garnered international acclaim, winning an award at the prestigious Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2023, a first for a British brand. These milestones underscore Christopher Ward's persistent drive for innovation and recognition within the horological landscape.
Courtesy of Christopher Ward
The C12 Loco collection is conceived around the idea of perpetual motion, not just in the literal sense of its mechanical heart, but also as a symbol of the brand's own forward momentum. Co-founder and CEO Mike France describes the watch as an "audacious piece," representing a climb higher up the watchmaking ladder than the company has ventured before. It’s presented as a refusal to remain static, pushing the boundaries of both technical execution and design philosophy, aiming to replicate the disruptive impact they feel they achieved previously by making advanced watchmaking features more attainable.
At the core of The C12 Loco is the newly developed Calibre CW-003. This manually wound movement is a significant evolution from the brand's first in-house calibre, CW-001. Under the guidance of Technical Director Frank Stelzer, the CW-003 was entirely re-engineered to meet the specific demands and aesthetic goals of the C12 Loco project. It represents a substantial investment in technical capability and underscores the brand's growing confidence in its movement development expertise, pushing their engineering further than before.
One of the headline features of the CW-003 is its impressive six-day power reserve, translating to 144 hours of autonomous running time. This extended duration, a full day longer than that offered by the CW-001, is achieved through the use of twin barrels working in series. Such a lengthy power reserve offers considerable practical convenience, allowing the watch to be set aside for nearly a week without needing to be rewound, a feature often found in higher-priced timepieces.
A key technical highlight, and central to the watch's visual identity, is the custom-designed free-sprung balance wheel. Unlike conventional systems that use regulating pins on the balance spring to adjust the rate, a free-sprung balance achieves regulation by adjusting the inertia of the balance wheel itself, typically via small weighted screws on its rim. This method is considered by many watchmakers to offer potentially greater stability and precision over time, as it eliminates a point of contact interference with the hairspring's oscillations.
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The decision to incorporate an exposed free-sprung balance was driven by both technical and aesthetic considerations. Jörg Bader Jr, Director of Product, notes that such a feature is "one of the most captivating sights in watchmaking." The team aimed for a design that felt precise and balanced, avoiding anything disorganized or overly whimsical. Achieving this required significant effort, including the development of a custom balance wheel and hairspring solution tailored specifically for the CW-003, a task Frank Stelzer described as a "major undertaking" necessary to meet the project's demands for precision and visual clarity.
The architecture of the CW-003 movement was meticulously planned for both function and visual appeal, especially given the open-dial design of The C12 Loco. Adrian Buchmann, Design Director, points out the influence of high-end independent brands in popularizing open balance watches, citing the "real joy" in observing the constant motion. The layout is deliberately symmetrical, carefully utilizing negative space and aligning the prominent balance wheel (visible on the dial side) with the barrels to optimize energy flow and create a sense of visual harmony. Key components are highlighted, while others remain hidden to maintain this clean aesthetic.
Beyond its structural design, the CW-003 calibre receives considerable attention in its finishing. The bridges feature meticulous hand-polishing with multiple rounded facets. This careful finishing is designed to catch and reflect light in a dynamic way, enhancing the perceived depth and complexity of the movement architecture when viewed through the dial aperture or the exhibition case back. This level of finishing aims to elevate the tactile and visual quality of the calibre.
Interestingly, Christopher Ward states that the CW-003 movement was designed exclusively for The C12 Loco, with no immediate plans for its deployment in other watch families. This decision emphasizes the specific synergy intended between this calibre and the Loco's design brief, positioning the watch as a unique showcase for this particular technical achievement within their current lineup.
Housing this intricate movement is a redesigned version of the brand's 'Twelve' case, presented here in a 41mm diameter. Constructed from stainless steel, the three-piece case architecture has been refined for enhanced wearability. Notably, the lugs feature a steeper downturn compared to previous Twelve iterations, designed to help the case contour more naturally and comfortably to the curvature of the wrist, improving the overall fit for a wider range of wearers.
Courtesy of Christopher Ward
In terms of dimensions, the case measures 41mm across, with a lug-to-lug distance of 47.5mm. The total height is 13.7mm, a figure that includes the pronounced front and rear sapphire crystals. However, the case body itself maintains a relatively slim profile at just 9.75mm thick. This combination aims to provide presence on the wrist without feeling overly bulky, balancing the visual impact with comfortable proportions.
Contributing significantly to the watch's profile and vintage-modern aesthetic are the box sapphire crystals used on both the front and back. The front crystal stands 3.55mm tall, creating visual depth over the dial and offering distortion at the edges characteristic of this style. A slimmer 0.4mm box sapphire crystal is used for the exhibition case back, providing a clear view of the CW-003 movement while minimizing added thickness.
The case material is stainless steel, providing durability and a familiar lustre suitable for a watch intended for regular wear. The water resistance is rated at 3 ATM, equivalent to 30 meters. This level of resistance means the watch can handle splashes and rain, but it is not suitable for swimming or showering, positioning it more as a mechanically focused piece than a rugged sports watch.
The dial of The C12 Loco is arguably its most defining feature, dominated by the large aperture revealing the intricate workings of the CW-003 movement. The constantly oscillating free-sprung balance wheel, positioned prominently around the 6 o'clock area, immediately draws the eye, providing the "perpetual motion" the design intends to capture. Above it, the symmetrical arrangement of bridges and exposed elements of the gear train creates a technical yet balanced display.
The C12 Loco is introduced in four distinct colourways, each offering a different personality while sharing the same underlying mechanical heart. The available options are Ursa Black, Alabaster White, Pasadena Blue, and Frisco Orange. According to the brand, the specific platine finish for each colour was chosen carefully to complement the open-heart design and the metallic tones of the exposed movement components.
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The Ursa Black version provides a stealthier, more contrasted look. The dark platine finish serves as a backdrop against which the polished and brushed metallic surfaces of the movement bridges, wheels, and the balance assembly stand out. This contrast emphasizes the mechanical elements and lends the watch a serious, technical character.
Conversely, the Alabaster White model offers a brighter, perhaps more clinical aesthetic. The white platine allows the intricate details of the movement's architecture and finishing to be clearly observed. It creates an airy feel, making the mechanical components appear almost suspended, highlighting the complexity and precision involved in their assembly.
For those seeking a bolder statement, the Frisco Orange and Pasadena Blue options provide vibrant alternatives. The Frisco Orange uses a striking, energetic hue for its platine finish, creating a dynamic interplay with the metallic movement parts. The Pasadena Blue offers a rich,
Deep Blue tone, giving the watch a distinct look that can shift depending on the light, providing a colourful yet sophisticated frame for the mechanics.
To suit different preferences and styles, The C12 Loco is offered with two strap/bracelet choices. Customers can opt for a custom rubber strap fitted with a deployant clasp, likely offering a sportier and more casual feel. Alternatively, an integrated stainless steel bracelet is available, featuring an adjustable clasp for fine-tuning the fit. This option provides a more cohesive metal look, flowing directly from the lines of the Twelve case.
Coinciding with the launch of The C12 Loco, Christopher Ward took the unusual step of producing a feature-length documentary titled "Freewheelin'". Directed by Ben Anderson, known for his work across natural history, travel, and branded content, the film provides a behind-the-scenes look at the two-year development process of the watch. Featuring interviews with key figures within the company and external industry voices, it aims to offer an unfiltered perspective on the challenges, creative decisions, and inevitable pivots involved in bringing such a complex project to fruition. CEO Mike France positioned the documentary as a way to engage with the curiosity of their customers, offering transparency about the craft and conflict inherent in ambitious watchmaking projects.
Courtesy of Christopher Ward
The C12 Loco is positioned at a price point reflecting its complex in-house movement and finishing. On the rubber strap with a deployant clasp, the watch is priced at $4,595. Opting for the integrated stainless steel bracelet with its adjustable clasp brings the price to $4,825. Availability follows a "drop model." An initial allocation of watches was made available at launch. Once these are sold, interested buyers can register for subsequent production batches, with two additional drops planned before the end of the year. This release strategy suggests controlled production volumes, at least initially.
The launch of The C12 Loco clearly signifies Christopher Ward's intent to continue pushing into higher tiers of watchmaking complexity. By developing and showcasing their second in-house calibre, CW-003, with features like a six-day power reserve and a free-sprung balance, all within a distinctive open-worked design, the brand reinforces its technical credentials. It’s a bold move that combines intricate mechanics with a contemporary aesthetic, offered in a range of colours to broaden its appeal, all while adhering to their foundational principle of bringing advanced horology to a wider audience than typically expected at this level of mechanical sophistication.
Case: Stainless steel, 41mm diameter, 13.7mm height (including crystals), 9.75mm thickness (excluding crystals), 47.5mm lug-to-lug. Features a 3-piece redesigned Twelve case with steeper downturned lugs, 3.55mm front box sapphire crystal, 0.4mm rear box sapphire crystal, 3 ATM (30m) water resistance.
Movement: Christopher Ward Calibre CW-003 (in-house). Manual winding, 144-hour (6-day) power reserve via twin barrels, 29 jewels, frequency of 4Hz (28,800 vph). Features a custom-designed free-sprung balance wheel and symmetrical architecture with hand-finished bridges. Timing tolerance: -0/+7 seconds per day.
Dial: Open-heart design showcasing the CW-003 movement. Available platine finishes: Ursa Black, Alabaster White, Pasadena Blue, Frisco Orange.
Strap: Choice of integrated stainless steel bracelet with adjustable clasp or rubber strap with deployant clasp.
Price: $4,595 USD on rubber strap, $4,825 USD on steel bracelet.
Reference Number:Notes: This watch debuts Christopher Ward's second in-house movement, CW-003, developed specifically for the C12 Loco. Features a technically advanced free-sprung balance. Release follows a drop model availability.