The watch world is a fascinating place, a microcosm of artistry, engineering, and tradition. Within this world, certain brands and collections stand out, not just for their technical achievements but for their ability to capture a certain je ne sais quoi – an intangible quality that speaks to the soul of a watch enthusiast. The Chopard L.U.C collection is undoubtedly one of those, and the new XPS 1860 Officer Limited Edition for Hodinkee is a perfect example of why.
Chopard, a name synonymous with luxury and jewelry, might not be the first brand that springs to mind when you think of haute horlogerie. Yet, hidden within this global powerhouse is a beating heart of true watchmaking passion: the L.U.C collection. Established in 1996 with the launch of the revolutionary Calibre 1.96, L.U.C. (named after founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard) has consistently flown the flag for traditional watchmaking values, focusing on in-house movements, meticulous finishing, and understated elegance. It's like stumbling upon a secret workshop, a hidden atelier where master craftsmen pour their souls into creating timepieces that whisper rather than shout.
Courtesy of Chopard
This new limited edition, crafted in collaboration with Hodinkee, the renowned online platform for watch enthusiasts, takes the classic XPS 1860 and imbues it with a unique character. The 40mm case, crafted from Chopard's ethically sourced 18k white gold, is a study in contrasts. The polished bezel and caseback gleam with a luxurious sheen, while the brushed mid-case provides a subtle counterpoint, a whisper of restraint amidst the shine. It's a watch that commands attention without demanding it, a quiet confidence that speaks volumes about the wearer's discerning taste.
But the real magic of this watch lies in the dial. A silvery hunter-green, it shifts and shimmers in the light, evoking the depths of a forest or the richness of a vintage tapestry. This mesmerizing effect is achieved through a meticulous guilloché pattern, hand-engraved by the artisans at Metalem. If that name rings a bell, it's because Metalem is the same dial manufacturer responsible for some of the most iconic dials in watchmaking history, including those found on the original L.U.C 1860 and, perhaps most notably, the Philippe Dufour Simplicity. Just let that sink in for a moment – the same hands that brought to life the minimalist masterpiece of Dufour have graced the dial of this Chopard.
The dial's details are equally captivating. Applied white gold indices, sharp and faceted, mark the hours, with a double index at 12 o'clock adding a distinctive touch. The date window at 6 o'clock, perfectly color-matched to the dial, maintains the harmonious flow, a subtle nod to the original 1860. And then there are the hands, Chopard's unique dauphine style, with bold bevels that catch the light and dance with every flick of the wrist. Even the seconds sub-dial, minimally marked and slightly recessed, plays its part, adding depth and intrigue to the overall composition.
But this watch is more than just a pretty face. Flip it over, and you'll discover another secret, another layer of artistry hidden beneath a hinged hunter caseback. This is where the L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer truly reveals its soul. In a move that speaks volumes about Chopard's dedication to this collaboration, all engravings, including hallmarks, have been removed from the caseback and relocated to the inside of the case. Why? To make way for a breathtaking guilloché pattern that mirrors the dial, a flourish of craftsmanship that elevates this watch to another level.
Courtesy of Chopard
The hunter caseback itself is a nod to watchmaking history, a feature that harkens back to a time when pocket watches were the norm. It adds a sense of occasion to the act of viewing the movement, a ritualistic unveiling of the mechanical marvel within. And what a marvel it is. The Calibre 96.01-L, a direct descendant of the first L.U.C movement, is a testament to Chopard's watchmaking prowess. COSC-certified and bearing the prestigious Geneva Seal, it's a movement that combines technical excellence with aesthetic beauty.
The micro-rotor, crafted from guillochéd gold, whispers rather than whirs, efficiently winding the twin barrels that provide an impressive 65-hour power reserve. The Breguet overcoil hairspring and swan-neck regulator, visible through the sapphire caseback, are further testaments to the watch's traditional roots, adding a touch of old-world charm to this modern masterpiece. And let's not forget the finishing – Geneva stripes, hand-finished anglage, and circular graining on the baseplates. This is a movement that's as beautiful to behold as it is technically impressive.
This watch, limited to a mere 25 pieces, is a testament to Chopard's commitment to preserving traditional watchmaking techniques while embracing innovation. It's a delicate dance between the old and the new, a harmonious blend of heritage and modernity. The 40mm case, crafted from Chopard's ethically sourced 18k white gold, is a perfect example of this duality. Its classic round shape and slim profile (a mere 7.7mm thick) exude a sense of understated refinement, while the hunter caseback adds a touch of historical intrigue.
The hunter caseback, a feature rarely seen in modern watches, is more than just a nostalgic flourish. It's a portal to the heart of the watch, a gateway to the mechanical magic within. With a gentle press of the button discreetly integrated into the crown, the caseback swings open, revealing the exquisitely finished Calibre 96.01-L movement. This is where the true beauty of the watch lies, in the intricate details and hand-finished components that elevate it beyond a mere timekeeping device.
Courtesy of Chopard
The Calibre 96.01-L, a direct descendant of the first L.U.C movement, is a masterpiece of micro-engineering. Measuring just 3.3mm thick, it's powered by a guillochéd gold micro-rotor that silently winds the twin barrels, providing an impressive 65-hour power reserve. The movement's architecture, with its bridges adorned with Geneva stripes and hand-finished anglage, is a feast for the eyes. The Breguet overcoil hairspring and swan-neck regulator, visible through the sapphire caseback, are further testaments to the watch's traditional roots, adding a touch of old-world charm to this modern marvel.
But the L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Limited Edition for Hodinkee is not just about technical prowess; it's also a watch that speaks to the soul of a collector. The dial, with its silvery hunter-green hue and mesmerizing guilloché pattern, is a work of art in its own right. The hand-engraved pattern, executed by the artisans at Metalem, shimmers and shifts in the light, creating a dynamic interplay of light and shadow. The applied white gold indices, sharp and faceted, provide a stark contrast against the rich backdrop, while the color-matched date window at 6 o'clock maintains the dial's harmonious balance.
The hands, Chopard's unique dauphine style with bold bevels, are another highlight. They catch the light with every movement, adding a touch of sparkle to the watch's overall aesthetic. Even the seconds sub-dial, minimally marked and slightly recessed, plays its part, adding depth and intrigue to the dial's composition.
Courtesy of Chopard
This meticulous attention to detail extends to the watch's strap options. It comes with two straps: a grey leather strap with a matching white gold buckle and a classic Hodinkee leather strap in textured Honey Brown leather. Both straps complement the watch's refined aesthetic, offering versatility for different occasions and personal styles.
The Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Limited Edition for Hodinkee is more than just a collaboration between a renowned watchmaker and a respected online platform. It's a fusion of heritage and modernity, a testament to the enduring appeal of traditional watchmaking values in a contemporary world. It's a watch that speaks to the heart of a collector, a timepiece that will be cherished for generations to come.
Now, let's take a moment to appreciate the historical context that makes this watch even more special. The L.U.C collection, launched in 1996, marked a turning point for Chopard. It was a bold statement, a declaration of the brand's commitment to becoming a true manufacture, capable of producing its own in-house movements. The Calibre 1.96, the first L.U.C movement, was a groundbreaking achievement, setting a new standard for Chopard's watchmaking capabilities.
The L.U.C 1860, the first watch to feature the Calibre 1.96, was an instant success, establishing the L.U.C collection as a force to be reckoned with in the world of haute horlogerie. This new limited edition, with its hunter caseback and exquisitely finished movement, pays homage to that legacy, carrying the torch of tradition while pushing the boundaries of innovation.
The collaboration with Hodinkee adds another layer of significance to this timepiece. Hodinkee, with its dedicated following of watch enthusiasts, has played a pivotal role in shaping the modern watch landscape. Its influence on the industry is undeniable, and its collaborations with renowned watchmakers have resulted in some of the most sought-after limited editions in recent years.
Courtesy of Chopard
The Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Limited Edition for Hodinkee is a testament to the power of collaboration, a celebration of shared passion and a commitment to excellence. It's a watch that embodies the spirit of both Chopard and Hodinkee, a timepiece that will undoubtedly become a collector's item.
With a retail price of $36,700, this limited edition is an investment in horological excellence, a piece of watchmaking history that will only appreciate in value over time. It's a watch that embodies the spirit of Chopard's L.U.C collection, a testament to the brand's unwavering commitment to traditional watchmaking values in a world that's constantly evolving.