Chopard has unveiled a striking addition to its L.U.C collection, the Quattro Spirit 25 Straw Marquetry Edition. This timepiece represents a confluence of sophisticated horological engineering and rare artistic craft, presented in an exceptionally limited series. It builds upon the foundation laid by the original L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25, introduced to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the
Chopard Manufacture, by incorporating a dial adorned with the intricate technique of straw marquetry. Limited to just eight examples worldwide, this watch combines a complex jumping-hour display with an impressive eight-day power reserve, housed within an ethically sourced 18k rose gold case.
The journey of the Chopard L.U.C collection began amidst the challenges facing traditional Swiss watchmaking in the mid-1990s. As the industry grappled with the aftermath of the quartz crisis, Chopard's Co-President, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, envisioned a return to the roots of mechanical watchmaking excellence. He established a dedicated workshop with the mission to develop Chopard's first in-house calibre, a tribute to the company's founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard. This initiative culminated in the creation of the L.U.C 96.01-L movement, an automatic calibre with a micro-rotor, notable for its versatility and technical sophistication at the time. Its launch marked the birth of Chopard Manufacture and the prestigious L.U.C line of watches.
Courtesy of Chopard
Since its inception, Chopard Manufacture has demonstrated a profound commitment to horological innovation and mastery. Over a quarter-century, the workshops in Fleurier and Geneva have developed a wide array of watch movements, encompassing nearly the full spectrum of horological complications. This dedication to pushing boundaries is underscored by the registration of twenty-two patents, reflecting continuous research and development aimed at refining timekeeping precision, functionality, and design. The L.U.C collection serves as the primary showcase for these advancements, embodying the manufacture's highest standards.
The L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 model itself was initially conceived as a celebration piece, marking a significant milestone for Chopard Manufacture. It introduced the technically demanding L.U.C 98.06-L jumping-hour movement. This new Straw Marquetry Edition elevates the original concept by pairing this mechanical ingenuity with an equally demanding artistic technique, creating a timepiece that appeals to connoisseurs of both complex watchmaking and artisanal decoration. It stands as a testament to the Manufacture's dual expertise in high mechanics and fine craft.
This exclusive edition distinguishes itself primarily through its dial, a miniature canvas showcasing the rare art of straw marquetry. This technique, with roots tracing back to the 17th century, requires immense patience and dexterity. Chopard has invested in training artisans within its own manufacture to master this craft, signifying a deep commitment to preserving traditional decorative arts often lost in modern production. This L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 marks the first time a timepiece from the collection features a dial entirely decorated using this method.
The process of creating the straw marquetry dial is meticulous. It starts with sourcing specific rye straw, cultivated in the Burgundy region of France. This straw is chosen for its quality and then carefully dyed to achieve the desired rich green hue seen on the final watch. Each individual strand of straw undergoes a painstaking preparation process: it is split open, often using just a fingernail, and then meticulously flattened using specialized pliers to create thin, workable ribbons of material.
Courtesy of Chopard
Following preparation, the flattened straw is cut with extreme precision using a sharp scalpel into minuscule hexagonal shapes. These tiny hexagons are then individually glued onto a solid ethical rose gold dial base. The artisan arranges them piece by piece, forming an intricate, interlocking pattern. The visual depth and texture arise from the careful selection and placement of straw segments, playing with variations in their natural stripe orientation, inherent thickness, and subtle differences in the dyed green shade.
The chosen pattern for this edition is a honeycomb motif, a design element Karl-Friedrich Scheufele has associated with the L.U.C collection since its early days in 1996. This pattern is not merely decorative; it carries symbolic weight. The beehive serves as a metaphor for the collaborative spirit and industrious nature of the Chopard Manufacture itself. Like bees working together in a hive, the artisans, watchmakers, and engineers at Chopard contribute their individual skills towards a common goal, embodying values of hard work, honesty, and collective effort. The honeycomb pattern subtly reflects this philosophy on the dial.
Once the intricate assembly of straw hexagons is complete, the dial undergoes a final finishing step. A layer of wood wax is carefully applied and polished. This coating protects the delicate straw while enhancing its natural lustre and sheen, bringing the textured honeycomb pattern to life. The design thoughtfully places the jumping hour display in a distinct aperture located at the 6 o'clock position. This positioning ensures that the central minutes hand, as it sweeps around the dial, never obstructs the view of the hour numeral changing instantaneously at the top of the hour.
Beyond the artistic dial, the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Straw Marquetry Edition houses a significant horological complication: the jumping hour. This mechanism, highly regarded by collectors for its unique display method, presents the hour digitally through an aperture rather than with a traditional hour hand. Chopard's interpretation, powered by the L.U.C 98.06-L calibre, provides an instantaneous jump, meaning the numeral snaps precisely to the next hour at the exact moment the minute hand passes the 60-minute mark.
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The watch's case is crafted from ethical 18-carat rose gold, reflecting Chopard's commitment to sustainable luxury. Measuring 40mm in diameter and 10.30mm in thickness, it strikes a balance suitable for various wrist sizes. The design features softly rounded contours, drawing inspiration from the hunter-style cases of pocket watches historically produced by the Maison's founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard. This blend of modern proportions with historical design cues creates a sophisticated profile.
Attention to detail extends to the case finishing. The bezel and the exhibition case-back are polished to a high shine, creating a pleasing contrast with the vertical satin-brushed finish applied to the case middle and the surfaces between the lugs. This interplay of finishes enhances the case's lines and visual appeal. The case provides water resistance up to 50 meters, suitable for daily wear and unexpected exposure to moisture, though not intended for swimming or diving.
A prominent feature of the case is the 18k rose gold crown, located at the traditional 3 o'clock position. It is appropriately sized for easy winding and setting, measuring 7.00 mm in diameter, and bears the L.U.C collection logo. Protecting the intricate dial is a glare-proofed sapphire crystal, ensuring excellent legibility by minimizing reflections. The exhibition case-back also utilizes sapphire crystal, offering an unobstructed view of the meticulously decorated movement within.
At the heart of this timepiece beats the manual-winding mechanical movement, calibre L.U.C 98.06-L. This movement is a technical marvel, particularly noteworthy for its substantial power reserve in a watch featuring an energy-intensive jumping hour complication. While typical jumping hour watches often struggle with autonomy, the L.U.C 98.06-L achieves an impressive power reserve of approximately 192 hours, or eight days.
This exceptional longevity is made possible by Chopard's exclusive Quattro technology. This patented system employs four mainspring barrels, stacked and series-coupled, rather than the usual one or two. These four barrels collectively house almost two meters of mainspring, allowing for a significantly larger energy storage capacity. While Quattro technology usually enables up to 216 hours of autonomy in other L.U.C models, the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 maintains over 190 hours even while powering the demanding instantaneous jump of the hour disc.
The benefits of the Quattro system extend beyond just the power reserve duration. By distributing the energy storage across four barrels, the torque delivered to the movement's regulating organ is more consistent throughout the winding cycle. This leads to a more stable amplitude of the balance wheel and contributes significantly to the watch's overall chronometric performance and timekeeping precision. The movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour).
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Despite its complexity and the inclusion of four barrels, the L.U.C 98.06-L movement maintains a relatively slim profile, measuring just 4.85 mm in thickness and 31.80 mm in diameter. It comprises 240 individual components, including 42 jewels to minimize friction. Visible through the case-back, the movement showcases high-end finishing techniques. The bridges are adorned with the classic Côtes de Genève striping and feature elegant gilded engravings. The remaining power reserve can be monitored via a discreet indicator integrated onto the movement side, visible through the sapphire back.
Further enhancing its technical credentials, the movement incorporates a balance spring with a Phillips terminal curve. This specific shaping of the spring's outer coil improves isochronism, ensuring the balance oscillates at a consistent rate regardless of the power reserve level or the watch's position, thereby boosting accuracy. Additionally, a swan's neck regulator is employed. This traditional and aesthetically pleasing device allows for very fine adjustments to the active length of the balance spring, enabling precise regulation of the watch's rate by the watchmaker.
The exceptional quality of the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Straw Marquetry Edition, encompassing both its movement and its exterior components, is certified by the prestigious Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal. This hallmark is awarded only after rigorous assessment based on strict criteria covering the movement's construction, finishing, performance, and the overall quality of the watch head. It guarantees not only the precision and reliability of the timepiece but also confirms that its assembly and regulation were performed within the Canton of Geneva, the historical heartland of Swiss fine watchmaking. The seal mandates specific high standards for decoration, including finely bevelled edges on components and the aforementioned Côtes de Genève on the bridges.
Complementing the warm rose gold case and the vibrant green dial is a hand-sewn strap crafted from green alligator leather. The strap features a matt finish with the characteristic square scales of alligator hide, providing a luxurious texture. The lining is made from brown alligator leather, ensuring comfort against the skin. The strap is secured by a pin buckle, also fashioned from ethical 18k rose gold, featuring both polished and satin-brushed finishes that echo the detailing on the watch case.
Courtesy of Chopard
The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Straw Marquetry Edition, reference number 161977-5009, represents a peak of Chopard's watchmaking capabilities. Its blend of an advanced jumping hour complication, the remarkable eight-day power reserve via Quattro technology, and the rare, meticulous craft of straw marquetry makes it a truly special piece. Its exclusivity is guaranteed by its strictly limited production run of only eight numbered pieces worldwide.
This timepiece is designated as a Chopard Boutique Exclusive, meaning it is available for purchase solely through Chopard's own retail boutiques. Reflecting its complexity, precious materials, artisanal craftsmanship, and extreme rarity, the Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Straw Marquetry Edition is priced at $68,400 USD. It appeals to discerning collectors who appreciate the fusion of mechanical ingenuity with artistic expression and the assurance of quality certified by the Poinçon de Genève.
Case: Ethical 18k rose gold, 40.00 mm diameter, 10.30 mm thickness. Polished bezel and case-back, vertical satin-brushed case middle. Water resistant to 50 meters. Glare-proofed sapphire crystal, exhibition case-back. Crown in 18k rose gold with L.U.C logo.
Movement: Hand-wound mechanical L.U.C 98.06-L. Features jumping hours and power-reserve indicator on movement back. Chopard Quattro® technology (four barrels) providing approx. 192 hours (8 days) power reserve. Frequency 4 Hz (28,800 vph), 42 jewels, 240 components. Dimensions Ø 31.80 mm, thickness 4.85 mm. Swan’s neck fine adjustment, balance-spring with Phillips terminal curve. Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark.
Dial: Ethical 18k rose gold base adorned with green straw marquetry in a honeycomb pattern. Instantaneous jumping-hours display in a 6 o’clock aperture. Gilded Dauphine fusée central minutes hand.
Strap: Hand-sewn green alligator leather strap (matt square plate) with alligator brown lining. Polished and satin-brushed pin buckle in ethical 18k rose gold.
Price: $68,400
Reference Number: 161977-5009
Notes: Extremely limited edition of 8 pieces, exclusive to Chopard Boutiques. Features a rare straw marquetry dial crafted in-house. Combines a jumping hour complication with an exceptional 8-day power reserve thanks to Quattro technology. Certified by the Poinçon de Genève.