Chopard, a name synonymous with luxury and meticulous craftsmanship, has a long-standing legacy in the watchmaking world. Founded in 1860 by Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the brand initially specialized in creating precise pocket watches and chronometers, gaining popularity amongst railroad workers and dignitaries alike. These original creations are, in part, what served as inspiration for the case shape of the new Lunar One watches, giving a little nod to their beginnings. Over the years,
Chopard expanded its expertise to include high-end jewelry, eventually becoming a prominent name in both horology and jewelry. The transition to wristwatches, which became more practical than pocket watches as time went on, was seamless for Chopard, as they maintained their commitment to quality and precision.
In the 1990s, a pivotal moment in Chopard's history arrived. Facing the aftermath of the quartz crisis, which severely impacted the mechanical watch industry, co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele took a bold step. He established a dedicated workshop focused on developing in-house calibers. This move was a tribute to the brand's founder and a declaration of Chopard's commitment to the art of traditional mechanical watchmaking. This initiative resulted in the creation of the L.U.C 96.01-L, an automatic micro-rotor movement that was both versatile and innovative for its time. The advent of this movement marked the birth of the Chopard Manufacture and the prestigious L.U.C. collection, named in honor of the founder.
Courtesy of Chopard
The L.U.C. collection, over the past 25 years, has become a showcase of Chopard's horological prowess. The brand's workshops have been instrumental in developing a wide range of in-house movements, covering nearly all existing horological complications. The 22 registered patents held by Chopard stand as a testament to their ongoing dedication to innovation and improvement within the industry. These patents represent advancements in various aspects of watchmaking, from movement design to material science, solidifying Chopard's position as a leader in high-end watchmaking. They continuously refine their techniques, ensuring that each L.U.C. timepiece embodies the latest advancements in horological science, and the new Lunar One watches are no different.
In 2005, Chopard introduced the L.U.C Lunar One, a timepiece that quickly became a standout in the world of complicated watches. It was the first perpetual calendar from Chopard Manufacture and remains the only watch in its category to feature a precision orbital moon-phase display with a rotating window. The complication was an instant success, revered by collectors and industry experts alike. Now, Chopard has unveiled two stunning new additions to the L.U.C Lunar One family, each bearing the reference number 161951, and each priced at $85,800.
Courtesy of Chopard
The first of these, the 161951-5001, is crafted from ethical 18k rose gold, giving it a warm and rich appearance. The case, measuring 40.5mm in diameter and 11.60mm in thickness, features a bassine shape, reminiscent of the pocket watches Louis-Ulysse Chopard designed in the 19th century. The case back is transparent, crafted from sapphire crystal, offering a clear view of the intricate movement within. The crown, also made from 18k rose gold, is thoughtfully designed to complement the overall design. The L.U.C logo is visible on the top surface of the crown, and the sides are ridged for an easy turn. The entire case has a polished finish.
The dial of the rose gold Lunar One is a masterpiece of craftsmanship. The gold base is finished in a deep, dark blue color, with a hand-guilloché pattern that radiates from the center. This intricate pattern adds depth and texture to the dial, catching the light in captivating ways. The applied hour markers are simple, and pointed, and made of rose gold, providing a striking contrast against the blue backdrop. The date is displayed prominently at the 12 o'clock position in a large double window. It provides great contrast with the white numerals and the dark blue background. The perpetual calendar function is cleverly integrated into the sub-dials, with the day of the week and 24-hour indicator at 9 o'clock, the month and leap year indicator at 3 o'clock, and the orbital moon phase and small seconds at 6 o'clock. The hands are dauphine-shaped, made in rose gold, and filled with luminescent material for enhanced visibility in low-light conditions.
The second watch, the 161951-1001, is fashioned from ethical 18k white gold, presenting a more understated yet equally captivating aesthetic. This model measures the same as the previous at 40.5mm in diameter, but is slightly thicker, coming in at 11.63mm. The case shares the same bassine shape and sapphire crystal case back as its rose gold counterpart, revealing the same movement inside, the difference being in the color of the gold. The 18k white gold crown matches the material of the case.
Courtesy of Chopard
The dial of the white gold Lunar One is equally impressive. The gold base is rendered in a beautiful salmon hue, a color that has gained significant popularity in recent years for its unique and sophisticated appeal. This version also has a hand-guilloché finish, adding layers of texture and visual interest. The applied hour markers, hands, and sub-dial frames are all made from white gold, harmonizing with the case material. The date window at 12 o'clock, as well as all of the calendar and moon phase information, is displayed in the same manner as the rose gold version, with the contrasting white numerals against the salmon background.
Both Lunar One models are powered by the exceptional L.U.C 96.13-L caliber, a self-winding mechanical movement developed and produced entirely in-house by Chopard. This movement is a marvel of engineering, comprising 353 individual parts, all meticulously hand-decorated and assembled in Chopard's workshops. The movement features 32 jewels, which help to reduce friction and wear, ensuring smooth and precise operation. It beats at a frequency of 4 Hz, or 28,800 vibrations per hour, contributing to its accuracy.
The L.U.C 96.13-L boasts a power reserve of approximately 65 hours, thanks to Chopard's innovative Twin Technology, which utilizes two stacked barrels. This extended power reserve means that the watch can be left unworn for over two and a half days without needing to be reset. The movement is not only a technical achievement but also a visual delight. Through the sapphire crystal case back, one can admire the intricate finishing, including Côtes de Genève, perlage, and anglage, all executed to the highest standards. The movement is chronometer-certified, meaning it has passed rigorous tests for accuracy and precision.
Courtesy of Chopard
One of the most remarkable features of the L.U.C 96.13-L is its astronomical moon-phase display. This complication is designed to accurately track the lunar cycle, requiring adjustment only once every 122 years. This level of precision is achieved through a sophisticated mechanism that deviates by just 57.2 seconds between two lunar phases. The moon phase is displayed in a sub-dial at 6 o'clock, with a rotating window that reveals a realistic depiction of the moon against a starry sky. The movement also powers the perpetual calendar complication, which correctly accounts for the varying lengths of months and leap years. This function ensures that the date, day, month, and year are always displayed accurately without needing manual correction.
The L.U.C Lunar One watches are not only marvels of horology but also examples of fine jewelry. The attention to detail extends to every aspect of the watch, including the straps. Chopard has equipped these models with an innovative interchangeable strap system, allowing the wearer to easily switch between different straps without the need for tools. This ingenious system enhances the versatility of the watch, enabling it to be adapted to various styles and occasions. The 18k rose gold model is available with two different strap options. The first option is a brown alligator leather strap, with a soft touch finish. The strap is hand sewn with matching brown thread and lined with alligator leather on the inside. The second option is a gray calfskin leather strap, with a matte finish. The strap is hand sewn with matching gray thread. The 18k white gold model comes with a blue alligator leather strap with a soft touch finish, hand-sewn with matching blue thread. It also comes with a matte blue calfskin strap, also hand-sewn with matching tones. All models include a folding clasp buckle that matches the material of the case. The 18k rose gold version has a rose gold buckle and the white gold model has a white gold buckle.
Courtesy of Chopard
These new Lunar One models carry the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, a testament to their exceptional craftsmanship. This certification, awarded only to watches that meet the highest standards of quality and finishing, is a guarantee of excellence. The Poinçon de Genève is recognized as one of the most stringent certifications in the watch industry, further enhancing the desirability of these timepieces. The hallmark is applied to both the movement and the case of the watch, certifying that they have been manufactured and finished to the exacting standards of the Poinçon de Genève. This mark is a symbol of quality and prestige, assuring the owner that they possess a timepiece of exceptional craftsmanship.
The new Chopard L.U.C Lunar One watches, with their sophisticated complications, luxurious materials, and exquisite craftsmanship, are true masterpieces of horology. They represent the pinnacle of Chopard's watchmaking expertise and are sure to be highly coveted by discerning collectors. They embody the perfect blend of traditional watchmaking techniques and modern innovation, making them not just functional instruments but also objects of great beauty and desirability. These two watches are available now through Chopard boutiques and authorized retailers, each priced at $85,800. While undoubtedly a significant sum, the price reflects the complexity of the movement, the quality of materials, and the level of craftsmanship involved in creating these exceptional timepieces.
Chopard L.U.C. Lunar One - Rose GoldCase: 40.5mm diameter, 11.60mm thick, ethical 18k rose gold. Bassine shape inspired by 19th-century pocket watches. See-through sapphire crystal case back. 18k rose gold crown.
Movement: L.U.C 96.13-L. Self-winding mechanical movement. 33.00mm diameter, 6.00mm thick. 353 parts, 32 jewels. 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) frequency. 65-hour power reserve. L.U.C Twin Technology (two stacked barrels). Orbital moon-phase display, perpetual calendar. Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. Chronometer-certified.
Dial: Gold-based dial, dark blue color. Hand-guilloché finish. Applied rose gold hour markers. Rose gold dauphine hands. Large date at 12 o'clock. Perpetual calendar with day/24-hour at 9 o'clock, month/leap year at 3 o'clock. Orbital moon phase and small seconds at 6 o'clock.
Strap: Interchangeable strap system. Brown alligator leather strap (soft touch) with hand-sewn matching tones, alligator lining. Gray calfskin leather strap (matt) with hand-sewn matching tones. 18k rose gold folding clasp.
Price: $85,800
Reference Number: 161951-5001
Notes: Astronomical moon-phase accuracy with one day's difference every 122 years.
Watch 2: Chopard L.U.C. Lunar One - White GoldCase: 40.5mm diameter, 11.63mm thick, ethical 18k white gold. Bassine shape. See-through sapphire crystal case back. 18k white gold crown.
Movement: L.U.C 96.13-L. Self-winding mechanical movement. 33.00mm diameter, 6.00mm thick. 353 parts, 32 jewels. 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) frequency. 65-hour power reserve. L.U.C Twin Technology (two stacked barrels). Orbital moon-phase display, perpetual calendar. Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. Chronometer-certified.
Dial: Gold-based dial, salmon color. Hand-guilloché finish. Applied white gold hour markers. White gold dauphine hands. Large date at 12 o'clock. Perpetual calendar with day/24-hour at 9 o'clock, month/leap year at 3 o'clock. Orbital moon phase and small seconds at 6 o'clock.
Strap: Interchangeable strap system. Blue alligator leather strap (soft touch) with hand-sewn matching tones. Blue calfskin leather strap (matt) with hand-sewn matching tones. 18k white gold folding clasp.
Price: $85,800
Reference Number: 161951-1001
Notes: Features a precision orbital moon-phase display with a rotating window.