Chopard L'Heure du Diamant Moonphase

Chopard presents a noteworthy addition to its L'Heure du Diamant collection with the introduction of the Moonphase model, reference number 139445-1001. This timepiece represents a significant step for the collection, incorporating a complex astronomical complication for the first time. It merges the brand's established prowess in high jewellery with its refined watchmaking capabilities, offering a piece that highlights both technical skill and aesthetic decoration, centered around the captivating display of the lunar cycle.



The history of Chopard is intertwined with the Scheufele family, who acquired the company in 1963. Under their guidance, Chopard cultivated a dual identity, becoming respected both for its mechanical watch movements, developed in its Fleurier Ebauches facility, and for its intricate high jewellery creations. This combination of skills is foundational to the L'Heure du Diamant collection, which draws inspiration from the design sensibilities of the 1960s, reimagined through contemporary execution and a focus on precious materials, particularly diamonds.



The L'Heure du Diamant collection itself has carved a niche by emphasizing the interplay between light and diamonds. Often featuring vibrant dials crafted from ornamental hard stones like malachite, opal, tiger's eye, and onyx, the collection provides a canvas for Chopard's artisans to showcase their gem-setting expertise. The introduction of the moon phase complication adds another layer of complexity and visual interest to this already distinct line of jewellery watches.



Watchmaking often regards the moon phase as one of its most visually engaging complications. It connects the mechanical measurement of time to the celestial rhythm of the moon, adding a narrative element to the dial. In the L'Heure du Diamant Moonphase, this complication takes center stage, depicted against a backdrop designed to evoke the night sky, further enhancing its romantic and astronomical associations.



At the heart of this timepiece beats the new Chopard Calibre 09.02-C, a self-winding mechanical movement specifically developed to integrate the moon phase complication within the dimensions suitable for a ladies' watch case. Measuring a compact 20.40 mm in diameter and 4.60 mm in thickness, this movement demonstrates Chopard's ability to miniaturize complexity without sacrificing performance or precision. Its development marks a milestone for the L'Heure du Diamant collection.



Comprising 169 individual components, the Chopard 09.02-C operates at a frequency of 3.5 Hz, equivalent to 25,200 vibrations per hour. This rate contributes to the smooth sweep of the hands and the overall reliability of the timekeeping. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 42 hours when fully wound, ensuring consistent operation for nearly two days without needing to be worn or wound. It features 27 jewels, which serve to reduce friction at critical points within the mechanism, enhancing longevity and efficiency.



A key feature of the Calibre 09.02-C is the remarkable precision of its moon phase display. The mechanism driving the aventurine disc that shows the moon's progression is calibrated to achieve astronomical accuracy. Chopard's watchmakers have engineered it so meticulously that it accrues a discrepancy of only one day relative to the actual lunar cycle over a period of 122 years. This level of precision means the complication requires adjustment only extremely infrequently, highlighting the sophisticated engineering within the compact movement.



The dial of the L'Heure du Diamant Moonphase is a standout feature, crafted from midnight blue aventurine glass. This material, with its Deep Blue hue and sparkling inclusions, naturally evokes the image of a star-filled night sky, providing an ideal backdrop for the moon phase display. The appearance perfectly complements the astronomical theme of the complication, creating a miniature cosmos on the wrist.



The story behind aventurine glass adds another layer of fascination. Its creation is attributed to a serendipitous accident in a 17th-century Murano glass workshop, where copper filings supposedly fell into molten glass. The resulting material, named "aventurine" from the Italian 'per avventura' (by chance), became prized for its unique, glittering look. Its use here connects the watch to this history of artisanal discovery and aligns with the L'Heure du Diamant collection's tradition of employing unique and colorful dial materials.



Enhancing the dial's celestial theme are the carefully applied details. The hour and minute hands are rhodium-plated and feature a distinct cone shape, ensuring legibility against the dark, sparkling background. Framing the moon phase aperture and serving as hour markers are brilliant-cut diamonds, adding points of bright light that contrast beautifully with the deep blue aventurine, further emphasizing the starry night aesthetic.



The watch's case is fashioned from ethical 18-carat white gold, reflecting Chopard's commitment to responsible sourcing. It measures 35.75 mm in diameter, a size that offers presence on the wrist while remaining suitable for a jewellery timepiece. The case thickness is 9.60 mm, accommodating the automatic movement and the layered dial construction while maintaining balanced proportions. Water resistance is rated at 30 meters, offering protection against incidental exposure to moisture.



Visually, the case is dominated by the extensive use of diamonds. The bezel and the lugs are meticulously set with brilliant-cut diamonds, contributing a significant portion (3.86 carats) of the watch's total diamond weight. These stones create a radiant halo around the aventurine dial, amplifying the watch's luxurious character and drawing the eye towards the central display and moon phase. The ethical white gold provides a cool, bright foundation for the diamonds.



Chopard employs a signature gem-setting technique known as "crown setting" for the diamonds surrounding the dial. Developed internally, reportedly by Karl Scheufele, this method utilizes V-shaped prongs designed to support the diamonds almost invisibly, minimizing the visible metal. This approach allows maximum light to enter and refract through the stones, significantly enhancing their brilliance and creating a continuous, dazzling display of light around the bezel. It gives the impression of the diamonds floating, held by an unseen structure.



The total diamond weight for the L'Heure du Diamant Moonphase is substantial, amounting to 7.70 carats. This includes the brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel, lugs, dial hour markers, moon phase rim, and the buckle, as well as the distinct diamond set into the crown. This significant carat weight underscores the piece's identity as a high jewellery watch.



Adding a further touch of distinction is the crown itself. Crafted from ethical 18-carat white gold, it is set with a prominent briolette-cut diamond measuring 5.50 mm. The briolette cut, with its numerous triangular facets covering the entire surface of the gem, gives the crown an exceptional sparkle and a unique shape, differentiating it from more common crown settings.



Protecting the intricate dial is a glare-proofed sapphire crystal. Sapphire is chosen for its exceptional scratch resistance, ensuring the dial remains clear and unobstructed over time. The glare-proofing treatment minimizes reflections, further enhancing readability. Complementing this is a see-through sapphire crystal case-back, offering an unobstructed view of the meticulously finished Chopard 09.02-C movement within, allowing appreciation of the mechanical heart of the watch.



The watch is secured to the wrist by a luxurious strap made from glossy navy blue alligator leather. The deep blue color harmonizes perfectly with the aventurine glass dial, creating a cohesive and rich color palette. The glossy finish adds a touch of sophistication, complementing the brilliance of the diamonds and the polished white gold case.



The strap is fastened with a pin buckle, also crafted from ethical 18-carat white gold. Continuing the theme of luxurious detail, the buckle itself is set with brilliant-cut diamonds, ensuring that every element of the watch, down to the clasp, reflects the high jewellery standards of the L'Heure du Diamant collection.



The repeated mention of "ethical" 18-carat white gold highlights a key aspect of Chopard's brand identity. While the specifics of the ethical sourcing aren't detailed in the provided text, Chopard has publicly committed to using ethically sourced gold in its creations, aiming to ensure responsible practices throughout its supply chain. This adds an element of conscientious luxury to the timepiece.



The Chopard L'Heure du Diamant Moonphase presents a compelling fusion of the brand's core strengths. The technical achievement of the new, highly accurate moon phase movement (Calibre 09.02-C) is seamlessly integrated with the opulent beauty of the diamond-set ethical gold case and the captivating aventurine dial. The meticulous craftsmanship is evident in the unique crown setting and the detailed finishing throughout.



The L'Heure du Diamant Moonphase, with reference number 139445-1001, is priced at $101,000. Reflecting its status as a high jewellery timepiece featuring a new manufacture movement and significant diamond content, it is positioned within the upper echelons of luxury watchmaking. Availability is exclusive to Chopard boutiques, underscoring its specialized nature within the brand's offerings.



Case: Ethical 18k white gold, 35.75 mm diameter, 9.60 mm thickness. Water resistant to 30m. Ethical 18k white gold crown set with 5.50 mm briolette-cut diamond. Bezel and lugs in ethical 18k white gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds (3.86 cts). Glare-proofed sapphire crystal front, see-through sapphire crystal case-back. Total white diamonds 7.70 carats.

Movement: Chopard 09.02-C self-winding mechanical. Ø 20.40 mm diameter, 4.60 mm thickness. 169 parts, 27 jewels. Frequency 3.5 Hz (25,200 vibrations per hour). Approx. 42-hour power reserve. Functions: hours, minutes, moon phases.

Dial: Midnight blue aventurine glass. Rhodium-plated cone-shaped hours and minutes hands. Hour-markers and moon-phase rim set with brilliant-cut diamonds.

Strap: Glossy navy blue alligator leather strap. Ethical 18k white gold pin buckle set with diamonds.

Price: $101,000

Reference Number: 139445-1001

Notes: First L'Heure du Diamant collection model with a complication. Moon phase display features astronomical precision, accurate for 122 years before needing a one-day adjustment. Utilizes Chopard's specific crown setting technique for diamonds. Available exclusively from Chopard boutiques.