Chopard continues to expand its successful Alpine Eagle collection, demonstrating a commitment to blending contemporary sports watch aesthetics with sophisticated mechanical engineering. Since its introduction, the Alpine Eagle line has seen additions like a flyback chronograph and a high-frequency movement. Now, the collection welcomes a technically impressive complication: the flying tourbillon, housed within a new model crafted from the brand's proprietary Lucent Steel. This timepiece, reference 298616-3003, represents a significant step for the collection, integrating high horology into its distinctive design language.
The history of
Chopard provides a crucial backdrop for understanding the Alpine Eagle collection and this specific flying tourbillon model. Founded by Louis-Ulysse Chopard in 1860 in Sonvilier, Switzerland, the company initially gained renown for its precise pocket watches and chronometers. The acquisition by the Scheufele family in 1963 marked a turning point, guiding Chopard towards becoming a globally recognized name in both high jewelry and fine watchmaking. The establishment of Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier in 1996 was pivotal, enabling the development and production of in-house L.U.C movements, showcasing the brand's dedication to horological independence and technical prowess, a foundation upon which the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon is built.
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The Alpine Eagle collection itself is a modern reinterpretation of the St. Moritz, a watch designed by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele (now Co-President of Chopard) in the late 1970s. The relaunch as Alpine Eagle involved three generations of the Scheufele family, bridging historical design cues with contemporary demands. The collection draws inspiration from the power and beauty of the Alps, reflected in details like the textured dial resembling an eagle's iris and the use of robust materials suited for an active lifestyle, while maintaining a refined appearance. It established a distinct identity with its integrated bracelet, specific bezel design, and emphasis on capable mechanics.
At the heart of this new model lies the L.U.C 96.24-L calibre, featuring a flying tourbillon. A flying tourbillon distinguishes itself from traditional tourbillons by lacking an upper bridge to support the rotating cage. It is secured only from below, creating the visual impression that the mechanism is floating or "flying" within its aperture. This construction enhances the transparency and lightness of the movement's appearance, allowing an unobstructed view of the intricate dance of the escapement as it rotates to counteract the effects of gravity on timekeeping precision.
The L.U.C 96.24-L movement is a direct descendant of Chopard Manufacture's foundational calibre, the L.U.C 96.01-L, first introduced in 1997. A key characteristic shared with its progenitor is its remarkable thinness. Measuring just 3.30 mm in height, this ultra-thin architecture is crucial in enabling the overall slim profile of the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon watch. It’s an automatic movement, wound efficiently by a micro-rotor crafted from engraved 22-carat gold. The high density of gold allows for a smaller, thinner rotor compared to standard tungsten or steel rotors, contributing significantly to the movement's svelte dimensions without sacrificing winding efficiency.
Beyond the tourbillon, the L.U.C 96.24-L incorporates several notable technical features. It utilizes Chopard's Twin Technology, employing two stacked barrels to achieve a substantial power reserve of approximately 65 hours. This extended running time is impressive for an automatic movement, especially one incorporating an energy-intensive tourbillon complication. The movement operates at a frequency of 3.5 Hz (25,200 vibrations per hour) and contains 189 components, including 25 jewels. Furthermore, it includes a stop-seconds function, allowing the balance wheel to be halted when the crown is pulled out, enabling precise time setting to the second.
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A standout achievement for this timepiece is its dual certification. The movement is officially certified as a Chronometer by the COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres), attesting to its high precision and rate stability across various positions and temperatures. This certification is explicitly noted with the "Chronometer" inscription found on the dial. Additionally, the watch as a whole bears the prestigious Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal. This hallmark guarantees not only the quality, finishing, and accuracy of the movement but also the craftsmanship of the entire watch, confirming its assembly and regulation within the Canton of Geneva according to strict criteria. Chopard highlights that it is unique in offering flying tourbillon watches that achieve both of these demanding certifications.
The case construction adheres to the Alpine Eagle's established design codes but is optimized for the slender movement. It measures 41 mm in diameter but boasts a thickness of just 8 mm. This reduced height, along with subtly slimmer flanks and bezel compared to standard Alpine Eagle 41 models, allows for a wider dial aperture, enhancing the visual presence of the dial and the flying tourbillon. The overall proportions maintain the collection's balance between sportiness and a certain sophisticated presence, well-suited to the complex movement within.
The material chosen for the case and bracelet is Chopard's exclusive Lucent Steel. This alloy is notable for several reasons. It possesses hypoallergenic properties, making it comfortable for prolonged wear. It is also significantly harder and more scratch-resistant than conventional stainless steel, offering enhanced durability. Aesthetically, it provides a unique brilliance due to its purity. Importantly, Chopard emphasizes its commitment to sustainability by producing Lucent Steel with a recycling rate of at least 80%. Since 2023, all steel Chopard watches, including cases and bracelets, utilize this advanced material.
The case features the signature Alpine Eagle elements: a round shape with distinctive stylised protective shoulders flanking the crown. The bezel is secured by eight functional screws, grouped in pairs and aligned tangentially, a subtle but recognizable detail. The case middle exhibits a vertical satin-brushed finish, contrasted by polished bevels, creating a dynamic play of light. The screw-down crown, ensuring water resistance up to 100 meters, is made from Lucent Steel and engraved with a compass rose, another nod to the collection's adventurous spirit.
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Protecting the dial is a glare-proofed sapphire crystal, ensuring clarity under various lighting conditions. An exhibition case-back, also fitted with glare-proofed sapphire crystal, allows an unobstructed view of the L.U.C 96.24-L movement. This provides an opportunity to admire the engraved 22-carat gold micro-rotor, the meticulous finishing on the bridges (adorned with the Côtes de Genève motif), and the overall architecture of this high-performance calibre. The Geneva Seal (Poinçon de Genève) is stamped on the case-back, featuring the coat-of-arms of the City of Geneva – a golden key and an eagle, coincidentally echoing the collection's name.
The dial of this model introduces a new colorway named "Rhône Blue." This specific shade, achieved through a PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) treatment, is inspired by the cool blue tones of the Rhône river near its glacial source in the Swiss Alps. The dial base itself is crafted from solid gold, providing a rich foundation for the textured finish. This texture is a hallmark of the Alpine Eagle collection, stamped with a radiating pattern that emanates outwards, inspired by the intricate structure of an eagle's iris. On this model, the pattern is centered specifically on the flying tourbillon aperture at 6 o'clock, drawing the eye towards the watch's mechanical centerpiece.
Legibility is ensured through applied hour-markers and numerals made from white gold. Both the markers and the white gold baton-style hour and minute hands are generously filled with Grade X1 Super-LumiNova®, a high-performance luminescent material providing excellent visibility in low-light conditions. White transfers are used for the minute track and branding, maintaining a clean and crisp appearance against the textured blue background.
The flying tourbillon cage itself becomes an integral part of the dial display. Positioned prominently at the 6 o'clock location, its open design emphasizes the "flying" aspect of the complication. The arms of the tourbillon carriage have been thoughtfully designed to echo the shape of the watch's hands, creating a harmonious aesthetic connection. Attached to this rotating carriage is the small seconds hand, a delicate triangle-tipped indicator also crafted from white gold and meticulously coated with Grade X1 Super-LumiNova® by Chopard's artisans, ensuring even the seconds indication is readable in the dark.
The watch is fitted with the signature Alpine Eagle integrated bracelet, crafted entirely from Lucent Steel. The bracelet design features gently tapering links, with broad, satin-brushed main links and sides, contrasted by polished central caps that run down the middle. This combination of finishes complements the case finishing and adds visual depth. The bracelet seamlessly integrates with the case lugs, creating a unified flow around the wrist. It secures with a triple folding clasp, also made from Lucent Steel, designed for both security and comfort. The integration and finishing contribute significantly to the watch's overall character.
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Chopard's vertical integration is a key element in the production of the Alpine Eagle collection. The ability to design, develop, produce, and assemble virtually all components in-house – from the intricate L.U.C movement parts to the Lucent Steel case and bracelet elements – allows for stringent quality control and ensures a cohesive final product. This capability is particularly important for complex pieces like the Flying Tourbillon, where precision and synergy between components are paramount.
Functionally, the watch provides a central display for the hours and minutes. The small seconds indication is located at 6 o'clock, directly integrated onto the flying tourbillon cage, making a complete rotation every minute. The stop-seconds function enhances practicality by allowing synchronization with a reference time source. The focus remains on clear time-telling, augmented by the visual spectacle of the tourbillon complication.
Visually, the watch presents a striking combination of textures and finishes. The cool tone of the Lucent Steel contrasts beautifully with the deep, textured Rhône Blue dial. The interplay of brushed and polished surfaces on the case and bracelet catches light dynamically. The dial's radiant pattern draws the eye inward, culminating at the captivating aperture revealing the constantly rotating flying tourbillon. The transparency of the tourbillon bridge design adds an airy, technical feel, while the luminescent hands and markers ensure functionality. Through the exhibition back, the richly decorated movement with its gold micro-rotor offers a different, equally compelling view.
The Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon occupies a unique space within Chopard's offerings and the wider market. It successfully merges the robust, nature-inspired aesthetic of the Alpine Eagle sports watch line with the horological complexity and certified precision usually associated with Chopard's more classical L.U.C dress watches. It caters to enthusiasts who appreciate advanced watchmaking mechanics and high standards of finishing and certification, but prefer them presented in a contemporary, versatile, and durable package suitable for daily wear.
The craftsmanship extends beyond the movement certifications. The meticulous application of the Côtes de Genève decoration on the movement bridges, the precise stamping of the eagle iris pattern on the gold dial, the careful finishing of the Lucent Steel case and bracelet, and the application of Super-LumiNova all speak to the high level of artisanal skill invested in each timepiece. This attention to detail is fundamental to the watch's appeal and its Poinçon de Genève qualification.
Courtesy of Chopard
This model, reference 298616-3003, represents the pinnacle of the Alpine Eagle collection in terms of mechanical complexity. It demonstrates Chopard's ability to leverage its Manufacture capabilities to innovate within its established lines, pushing boundaries by incorporating complications like the flying tourbillon and achieving dual certification in a sports watch context. The use of Lucent Steel further underscores the brand's focus on material innovation and sustainability.
For details regarding the price and current availability of the Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon (Ref. 298616-3003), prospective buyers should consult authorized Chopard retailers or contact Chopard directly through their official channels. As a high-complication timepiece produced with significant in-house expertise and advanced materials, it sits at the upper end of the Alpine Eagle collection's range.
Case: Lucent Steel™ construction, 41.00 mm total diameter, 8 mm thickness. Water resistant to 100 meters. Features a Lucent Steel™ screw-down crown (6.65 mm) with compass rose, vertical satin-brushed case middle with polished bevels, Lucent Steel™ bezel with eight tangent-set screws, glare-proofed sapphire crystal, and exhibition case-back with glare-proofed sapphire crystal.
Movement: L.U.C 96.24-L self-winding mechanical movement with engraved 22-carat gold micro-rotor. Features a flying tourbillon rotating once per minute, 65-hour power reserve via Chopard Twin Technology (two stacked barrels), stop-seconds function, 25 jewels, 189 components, and a frequency of 25,200 vph (3.5 Hz). Movement dimensions are 27.40 mm diameter and 3.30 mm thickness. Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motif. Certified Chronometer (COSC) and bears the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark.
Dial: "Rhône Blue" color obtained by PVD treatment on a gold base, stamped with a radiating pattern centered on the tourbillon. Applied white gold hour-markers and numerals enhanced with Grade X1 Super-LumiNova®. White gold baton-type hours/minutes hands and white gold triangle-tipped small seconds hand (on tourbillon cage), all enhanced with Grade X1 Super-LumiNova®. Features white transfers.
Strap: Tapering Lucent Steel™ bracelet with satin-brushed wide links and sides, and a polished central cap. Secured with a Lucent Steel™ triple folding clasp.
Price: Upon Request
Reference Number: 298616-3003
Notes: Notable for its ultra-thin (3.30 mm) L.U.C 96.24-L movement allowing for a slim 8 mm case profile. One of the rare flying tourbillon watches to bear both COSC Chronometer and Poinçon de Genève certifications. Crafted from Lucent Steel™, Chopard's exclusive, highly resistant steel made with an 80% recycling rate.