Carl Suchy & Söhne, in collaboration with esteemed designer Eric Giroud, introduces the Vienna collection, a series of three distinct timepieces acting as a carefully composed tribute to the Austrian capital. These watches seek to encapsulate the spirit of Vienna, channeling the city's rich artistic heritage, particularly the influential period of Viennese Modernism, through a lens of contemporary watch design and Swiss manufacturing precision. The collection debuts with three variations: Vienna Blue Danube, Vienna Day, and Vienna Night.
The history of
Carl Suchy & Söhne stretches back over two centuries, establishing itself as a prominent name in Austrian watchmaking and serving the imperial court. After a period of dormancy, the brand was revived, aiming to blend its historical legacy with modern horological sensibilities. Under the guidance of CEO Robert Punkenhofer, an art and design specialist known for his innovative cultural projects, the company navigates the path of integrating its rich past with forward-looking design principles, finding resonance in Vienna's unique character.
Courtesy of Carl Suchy & Söhne
Integral to the creation of the Vienna collection is Eric Giroud, a designer whose work has significantly shaped modern watch aesthetics. With initial training in architecture, Giroud shifted his focus to horology in 1997, founding Eric Giroud Designworks. His approach often involves merging architectural clarity with intricate watch design, resulting in acclaimed creations for numerous prestigious brands. For the Vienna, Giroud immersed himself in the brand's history and the city's modernist legacy to forge a new visual identity.
The meticulous execution of the Vienna watches falls under the purview of Marc Jenni, an independent master watchmaker with notable credentials, including training under Paul Gerber and experience at Tiffany & Co. before establishing his own company, Nobletime. Jenni, a former member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), brings his expertise in handcraftsmanship and the realization of complex horological concepts to Carl Suchy & Söhne, ensuring the Vienna collection meets high standards of mechanical artistry.
The core design inspiration for the Vienna collection stems from Viennese Modernism, an early 20th-century movement emphasizing functionality, geometric forms, and a departure from excessive ornamentation. Thinkers and creators like architects Adolf Loos and Josef Hoffmann championed this "Art of Reduction." Designer Eric Giroud explicitly references this influence, stating, "The dial features a meticulously crafted design with clear lines – it is very much Adolf Loos, very much Josef Hoffmann." This philosophy translates into the watch's clean, architectural lines and focus on essential forms.
This principle of reduction shapes the entire aesthetic. The design prioritizes clarity and the interplay of light and shadow across surfaces rather than applied decoration. The Vienna aims for a state where form and function achieve a balanced perfection. This is visually embodied in the dial's layout and the smooth motion of the hands, creating a sense of calm precision that echoes the modernist ideals.
Courtesy of Carl Suchy & Söhne
A key feature expressing this design ethos is the rotating disc located at the six o'clock position. This disc, referred to sometimes as the "Walzing Disc," takes the place of a traditional seconds hand. As it completes its revolution each minute, it reveals a delicate, evolving pattern created by intersecting lines. This constant, rhythmic motion is conceived as a visual pulse, symbolizing the steady beat of the city itself.
The Vienna collection launches with three distinct dial variations, all housed within the same stainless steel case structure. The Vienna Blue Danube features a striking blue and white dial, evoking the namesake river. The Vienna Day presents a clean, bright white dial, emphasizing clarity and light. The Vienna Night offers a contrasting black and white dial, playing with stark geometric divisions. Each interpretation uses the same foundational design language but offers a different mood.
Visually, the dials are defined by their split design, often featuring contrasting finishes or patterns across different segments. Strong vertical or horizontal lines divide the dial space, creating geometric interest. The rotating seconds disc at six o'clock is a focal point, its patterned surface contrasting with the broader dial segments. The overall impression is one of structured, architectural composition, softened by the roundness of the case.
The Blue Danube variant uses a
Deep Blue paired with white segments, creating a nautical yet sophisticated look. The linear patterns, likely horizontal stripes on one section contrasted with a cleaner finish on another, are rendered in these cool tones. This version feels connected to the city's famous waterway, offering a colorful take on the modernist structure.
The Vienna Day model features an all-white dial, perhaps with different textures or finishes differentiating the geometric sections. This monochromatic approach highlights the purity of the form and the interplay of light across the surfaces. The rhodium-plated hands and indices stand out clearly against the bright background, emphasizing legibility and the clean design ethos.
Conversely, the Vienna Night utilizes a bold black and white scheme. The contrast between the dark and light segments creates a dramatic visual effect. The linear patterns become particularly prominent here, defining the dial's character. This version offers a more assertive take on the collection's geometric language, suitable for evening wear or for those preferring higher contrast.
Courtesy of Carl Suchy & Söhne
Indicating the time are skeletonized Dauphine hands, rhodium-plated for a bright, metallic finish. These hands feature Super-LumiNova filling, ensuring visibility in low-light conditions. The indices, applied to the dial, are also rhodium-plated and filled with Super-LumiNova, maintaining consistency and contributing to the watch's clear, functional aesthetic. The galvanized finish of the dial provides a subtle metallic sheen.
The case housing these intricate dials is crafted from 316L stainless steel, known for its corrosion resistance and durability. It measures a versatile 39mm in diameter, making it suitable for a wide range of wrists. A key feature is its remarkably slim profile, with a height of just 7.9mm, allowing it to sit comfortably and unobtrusively. The lug-to-lug measurement is 41.2mm, contributing to its compact and wearable feel.
Attention to detail is evident in the case finishing, which employs a contrast between brushed and polished surfaces. Typically, areas like the case sides might be brushed, while the bezel and lug tops are polished, creating visual depth and highlighting the case lines. The crown, located at 3 o'clock, is engraved with the Carl Suchy & Söhne pattern. The case offers water resistance up to 3 ATM (30 meters), suitable for everyday exposure like splashes but not for swimming. Each case back is engraved with a unique serial number.
Protecting the dial is a domed sapphire crystal, valued for its high scratch resistance. An anti-reflective coating is applied to both sides of the crystal, minimizing glare and ensuring a clear view of the dial details from various angles. The case back is screwed down and also features a sapphire crystal, providing an exhibition window to view the intricate movement within.
Powering the Vienna is the Caliber 5401, an ultra-slim automatic movement developed in collaboration with the respected Swiss movement maker Vaucher Fleurier Manufacture. This movement, also referred to as the CSS-V1 within the brand's nomenclature, enables the watch's slender profile. It operates automatically, winding itself through the wearer's motion, and provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours when fully wound. The movement contains 29 jewels to reduce friction on moving parts.
Visible through the exhibition case back, the movement showcases specific decorative techniques. Chief among these is the Côte de Vienne finish, a unique pattern applied to the bridges, serving as a subtle nod to Viennese aesthetics and distinguishing it from the more common Côte de Genève. The finishing is executed by hand. A highlight is the golden micro-rotor, responsible for automatic winding. This rotor is intricately engraved with the Carl Suchy & Söhne logo, which includes double griffins, the Habsburg crown, and a double eagle – symbols referencing the brand's imperial connections.
Courtesy of Carl Suchy & Söhne
The Vienna watches are presented on genuine leather straps measuring 20mm at the lugs and tapering to 18mm at the clasp. The standard color provided is black, suitable for the Day and Night variations, though strap options may vary, potentially including blue for the Blue Danube. A thoughtful detail is the micro-engraved pattern on the strap's inner lining, depicting the iconic geometric tiles of Vienna's St. Stephen’s Cathedral. The straps feature quick-release spring bars, allowing for easy changes without tools, and accommodate wrist circumferences from 150mm to 190mm.
Securing the watch to the wrist is a deployant clasp, also made from 316L stainless steel. This type of clasp provides a secure fit and helps preserve the condition of the leather strap compared to a traditional pin buckle. The clasp is engraved with the Carl Suchy & Söhne pattern, ensuring brand consistency down to the smallest details.
The entire timepiece carries the "Swiss Made" designation, signifying that the watch's assembly, movement, and final inspection occurred in Switzerland, adhering to the stringent quality standards associated with the label. The combination of Eric Giroud's design, Marc Jenni's watchmaking craft, and Vaucher Fleurier's movement expertise culminates in this label.
Each Vienna watch comes packaged thoughtfully. It is presented in a high-quality velvet box, handcrafted in Vienna, reflecting the brand's origins. Integrated within this box is a genuine leather travel pouch, featuring the unique Carl Suchy & Söhne design, providing a practical and protective solution for transport.
According to CEO Robert Punkenhofer, "Collectors appreciate our brand’s clear and unmistakable design language, inspired by the beauty and character of Vienna. Many small details make the Vienna a unique timepiece – from our exclusive Côte de Vienne finish and the golden micro-rotor with engraved double griffins to the distinctive dial ornamentation with its rotating seconds disc." This highlights the brand's focus on nuanced details and a coherent design narrative rooted in its namesake city.
Courtesy of Carl Suchy & Söhne
The official public debut for the Carl Suchy & Söhne Vienna collection is scheduled for April 1, 2025, at the Time to Watches event in Geneva. This venue, known for showcasing leading independent watchmakers, provides a fitting platform for the launch. The initial release will comprise a series limited to 50 pieces, distributed across the three signature colorways: Day (white), Blue Danube (blue & white), and Night (black & white).
Each of the three variations – Vienna Blue Danube, Vienna Day, and Vienna Night – is priced at € 18,900. Availability will commence following the official launch, likely through the brand's online store and potentially selected retail partners, with the initial 50 pieces representing the first production run.
Case: 316L Stainless Steel, 39mm diameter, 7.9mm height, 41.2mm lug-to-lug. Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides. Screwed case back with sapphire crystal exhibition window. Water resistant to 3 ATM / 30 meters. Engraved crown. Brushed and polished finishes.
Movement: Caliber CSS-V1 (based on Caliber 5401 in collaboration with Vaucher Fleurier Manufacture). Automatic winding via engraved golden micro-rotor. 48-hour power reserve, 29 jewels. Features Côte de Vienne decoration.
Dial: Available variations: Day (white), Night (black & white), Blue Danube (blue & white). Galvanized finish. Rotating Disc at 6 o’clock for seconds indication. Rhodium-plated indices and skeletonized Dauphine hands, both filled with Super-LumiNova.
Strap: Genuine leather strap (20mm lug width tapering to 18mm). Features quick-release spring bars and micro-engraved St. Stephen’s Cathedral tile pattern on the inside. Fits wrists 150mm to 190mm. 316L stainless steel deployant clasp with Carl Suchy & Söhne pattern.
Price: € 18,900
Notes: Design by Eric Giroud inspired by Viennese Modernism. Crafted by independent watchmaker Marc Jenni. Ultra-slim case profile. Swiss Made. Presented in a handcrafted Viennese velvet box with integrated leather travel pouch. World premiere April 1, 2025, first series limited to 50 pieces.