Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti

The world of luxury watches occasionally witnesses collaborations that transcend the typical, venturing into realms where artistry and mechanics intertwine in unexpected ways. The Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti is a prime illustration of such a synergy, uniting two seemingly disparate houses – Bvlgari, the Roman jeweler synonymous with bold, glamorous designs, and MB&F, the independent watchmaker known for its avant-garde, three-dimensional "horological machines." This partnership doesn't merely combine logos; it melds distinct design languages and technical prowess, resulting in a timepiece that is both a captivating work of art and a feat of micro-engineering.

Bvlgari, established in 1884, carries a legacy deeply rooted in Italian craftsmanship and a flair for the dramatic. The Serpenti, an iconic motif for the brand since the 1940s, embodies this spirit, with its sinuous, snake-like form that wraps around the wrist. It's a symbol of rebirth and transformation, constantly evolving yet instantly recognizable. MB&F, on the other hand, is a relatively young brand, founded in 2005 by Maximilian Büsser. But in its short history, MB&F has carved a niche for itself by creating "kinetic sculptures" that tell time. These are not mere watches; they are intricate, often whimsical creations that challenge the conventional notions of what a timepiece can be, inspired by themes as diverse as automobiles, science fiction, and nature.



This isn't the first time these two powerhouses have joined forces. Their initial collaboration, the LM FlyingT Allegra, infused MB&F's Legacy Machine with Bvlgari's vibrant, gemstone-laden aesthetic. Building upon that success, the Serpenti project represents a more profound integration of the two brands' identities. Instead of simply adapting an existing MB&F model, they chose to reimagine Bvlgari's Serpenti, a design steeped in history and symbolic meaning, turning it into a mechanical marvel. This endeavor was no small feat, requiring a complete rethinking of the Serpenti's structure and mechanics, a testament to the commitment of both brands to push boundaries.

The design process, as described by Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari's director of watchmaking creation, was a labor of love, involving countless sketches and 3D-printed models. The Serpenti's organic, flowing shape, far removed from the typical circular watch case, presented a unique set of challenges. Unlike a round case, which offers limited dimensional variation, the Serpenti's form is multifaceted, demanding meticulous attention to every curve and angle. Any alteration to one aspect could disrupt the harmony of another, leading to numerous iterations before the final design was perfected. This dedication to achieving visual balance and aesthetic coherence is evident in the finished product.



The manufacturing of the case itself proved to be equally demanding. The Serpenti's complex curves, extending from the metal case to the five sapphire crystals, created what Maximilian Büsser termed a "machining nightmare." These curves aren't merely decorative; they define the watch's character. The use of 5-axis 3D mills was essential to achieve the desired precision. Furthermore, ensuring water resistance to 30 meters, given the intricate interplay of curved metal and sapphire, added another layer of complexity. This commitment to both form and function underscores the high level of craftsmanship involved.

Housed within this meticulously crafted case is a movement that is equally unconventional, conceived and developed in-house by MB&F. A central element of the design is the animation of the serpent's eyes, which serve as the hour and minute displays. These revolving domes, crafted from ultra-light aluminum, rotate to indicate the time. The left dome completes a full rotation in 12 hours, while the right one rotates every 60 minutes. The application of Super-LumiNova adds a captivating touch, allowing the serpent's gaze to glow in the dark, further emphasizing the creature's lifelike quality.

The "brain" of this mechanical reptile is represented by the oversized, 14mm flying balance wheel, a signature element of MB&F's designs. This visually striking component, beating at a traditional 2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations per hour), is held in place by a three-dimensional balance bridge that proudly displays the names of both collaborating brands. The watch is wound and set using separate crowns cleverly integrated into the rear lugs, maintaining the sleek, uninterrupted lines of the case.



Turning the watch over reveals the power reserve indicator and a glimpse into the meticulously hand-finished movement. MB&F's dedication to traditional watchmaking techniques is evident in the level of detail and craftsmanship applied to each of the 310 components. This commitment to artisanal manufacturing necessitates a limited production run, with only six to eight Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti movements being crafted each month. This exclusivity adds to the watch's allure and collectibility.

The movement, while heavily influenced by MB&F's HM10, underwent significant modifications to suit the Serpenti's streamlined design. This adaptation highlights the collaborative nature of the project, with MB&F's technical expertise being harnessed to realize Bvlgari's design vision.

Beyond the Serpenti motif, the watch reveals subtle nods to automotive design, a shared passion of both Buonamassa and Büsser. The case evokes the sleek lines of a sports car, while the stepped sapphire crystal on the rear resembles the rear window flaps of certain performance vehicles. Even the crowns bear a resemblance to car wheels. The visible portion of the movement incorporates elements reminiscent of a car engine, including a grille featuring the hexagonal scale pattern found on previous Serpenti creations. These details, while not overtly stated, add another layer of depth and intrigue to the watch's design, reflecting the shared interests and design sensibilities of the creators.



The Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti is available in three distinct limited editions, each comprising 33 pieces. One version features a grade 5 titanium case with blue hour and minute domes, offering a cool, futuristic aesthetic. Another is housed in an 18K rose gold case with green domes, exuding warmth and luxury. The third variant is crafted from black PVD-coated stainless steel with red domes, presenting a bold and striking appearance.

Each version is paired with a hand-stitched rubber strap, color-matched to the domes, and secured with a Velcro system for a comfortable and secure fit. The buckle material corresponds to the case material, with the titanium and stainless steel versions featuring titanium buckles and the rose gold version boasting an 18K rose gold buckle.



The Serpenti's case measures 53 x 39 x 18 mm. The open-case design allows to see the intricate workings of the movement with the case-back featuring a power-reserve indicator. The watch has a 5 sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides. The left crown at 11 o’clock is for winding while the right crown at 1 o’clock for setting the time.The Indexes and markers are coated with Super-LumiNova.

The PVD coated stainless steel, and Grade 5 Titanium versions retail for $148,000, and the 18k Rose Gold edition commands a heftier price of $170,000. Availability is, as expected, extremely limited, reflecting the painstaking craftsmanship and intricate design of this collaborative masterpiece. This pricing positions the watch firmly within the realm of high-end, collectible timepieces, appealing to discerning collectors who appreciate both horological innovation and artistic expression.

Case: Three options: Grade 5 titanium, 18K rose gold, or black PVD-coated stainless steel. Dimensions: 53 x 39 x 18 mm. 5 sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coating. Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30m / 90ft. Left crown at 11 o'clock (winding), right crown at 1 o'clock (time-setting).

Movement: Manual-winding MB&F in-house movement. Bespoke flying 14mm balance wheel. Power reserve: 45 hours. Power reserve indicator on the back.

Dial: Rotating aluminum domes. Hours on the left dome (12-hour rotation). Minutes on the right dome (60-minute rotation). Indexes and markers coated with Super-LumiNova. Blue domes with the titatnium case, Green domes with rose gold case, red domes for PVD-coated stainless steel case.

Strap: Hand-stitched rubber strap with Velcro system. Color matched to domes. Ardillon buckle: grade 5 titanium (titanium and stainless steel versions), 18K rose gold (rose gold version).

Price: $148,000 (Titanium and PVD Coated Stainless Steel), $170,000 (Rose Gold)

Notes: Second collaboration between Bvlgari and MB&F. Reimagines Bvlgari's Serpenti as an MB&F Horological Machine. Limited edition of 33 pieces for each case material.