• Bulova MIL-SHIPS 150th Anniversary Edition Diving Deep into History
  • Bulova MIL-SHIPS 150th Anniversary Edition

    Diving Deep into History

    Hourstriker Staff
    Words by: Hourstriker Staff
    February 5, 2025
  • Bulova, a name that resonates with horological history and military precision, has unveiled a striking pair of timepieces to commemorate its 150th anniversary: the MIL-SHIPS Bronze Special Edition watches. These aren't just watches; they're a tangible link to a fascinating past, echoing a time when Bulova was developing specialized equipment for the U.S. Navy's elite underwater demolition teams.

    The story begins in the mid-1950s. The U.S. Navy's Explosive Ordnance Disposal (EOD) and Underwater Demolition Teams (UDT) needed a watch that could withstand the extreme pressures and conditions of deep-sea missions. They created the MIL-SHIPS-W-2181 specification in 1955, calling for a watch that was not only watertight but also resistant to water vapor, clearly visible in the dark depths, and equipped with a rotating bezel to track elapsed time. Bulova, already a trusted supplier of military timepieces, stepped up to the challenge. Under the guidance of retired General Omar Bradley, the company developed prototypes that underwent rigorous testing by the Navy Experimental Diving Unit (NEDU) in 1957 and 1958. The watches performed admirably, exceeding expectations in dive and depth tests. However, for reasons unknown, Bulova decided against mass production, leaving only a handful of these original prototypes as coveted artifacts for collectors.

    Courtesy of Bulova
    Courtesy of Bulova


    These new MIL-SHIPS models, however, are far from unobtainable relics. They're a modern reinterpretation of that legendary design, brought to life with contemporary materials and craftsmanship. The most immediate, striking feature of these watches is their case material: CuSn8 bronze. This specific alloy isn't just any bronze; it's a nod to the copper diving helmets of the 19th century, evoking a sense of historical connection to the very roots of underwater exploration. The bronze has a warm, rose-gold hue when new, a visual link to that bygone era. But unlike copper, CuSn8 bronze is remarkably strong and durable, perfectly suited to the rigors of a modern tool watch.

    One of the defining characteristics of bronze is its ability to develop a patina over time. As the watch is exposed to the elements – air, moisture, even the oils from your skin – the bronze will gradually darken and develop a unique character. This isn't corrosion; it's a natural, protective layer that forms on the surface of the metal. Each watch will age differently, developing its own distinctive pattern and coloration, making it truly one-of-a-kind. This patina is a visual record of the watch's journey, a testament to its wearer's adventures.

    Courtesy of Bulova
    Courtesy of Bulova


    The MIL-SHIPS Bronze is offered in two distinct colorways: a deep, rich navy blue and a rugged olive green. Both versions feature a sandblasted finish on the bronze case, giving it a subtle, textured appearance that complements the matte finish of the dials. The dials themselves are clean and legible, prioritizing function over unnecessary ornamentation. The hour markers are large and bold, filled with luminous material that glows brightly in low-light conditions, ensuring readability even in the darkest environments. The hands, also generously lumed, are a vintage-inspired design, reminiscent of the original MIL-SHIPS prototypes.

    A key detail on the dial is the bi-color moisture indicator strip located just above the 6 o'clock position. This feature, carried over from the original design, serves a vital purpose. If moisture were to penetrate the watch case, the strip would change color, providing an immediate visual warning to the wearer. While modern watchmaking techniques and seals make water ingress far less likely, the inclusion of this indicator is a faithful nod to the watch's military heritage and its intended use as a professional diving instrument.

    Surrounding the dial is a bi-directional rotating bezel, crafted from aluminum. The bezel insert matches the color of the dial – either navy blue or olive green – and features a 60-minute scale for tracking elapsed time. This is an essential feature for divers, allowing them to monitor their dive duration and decompression stops accurately. The bezel's action is smooth and precise, with distinct clicks that provide tactile feedback.

    Courtesy of Bulova
    Courtesy of Bulova


    Protecting the dial is a double-domed sapphire crystal. Sapphire crystal is highly scratch-resistant, ensuring that the watch face remains clear and legible even after years of wear and tear. The double-domed shape of the crystal helps to minimize distortion, providing a clear view of the dial from any angle. Furthermore, the crystal is treated with a five-layer anti-reflective coating, reducing glare and enhancing visibility in bright conditions.

    Turning the watch over reveals a solid case back, embossed with a commemorative 150th Anniversary design. This is a subtle but significant detail, reminding the wearer of Bulova's long and illustrious history. The case back also provides important information, including the watch's water resistance rating of 200 meters. This depth rating means the MIL-SHIPS Bronze is more than capable of handling recreational diving, snorkeling, and other water activities.

    Powering the MIL-SHIPS Bronze is an automatic movement, specifically the 83S0 caliber. This 21-jewel movement is a reliable workhorse, known for its accuracy and durability. Automatic movements are powered by the motion of the wearer's wrist, meaning they don't require a battery. As long as the watch is worn regularly, it will continue to run. The movement also boasts a 60-hour power reserve, so it will keep ticking for over two days even if taken off the wrist. The movement is classified as "Automatic" and "Heartbeat Skeleton"

    Courtesy of Bulova
    Courtesy of Bulova


    The MIL-SHIPS Bronze models come fitted with a newly designed strap that is both stylish and functional. The previous iteration of the MIL-SHIPS watch featured a nylon NATO strap. While NATO straps are popular for their durability and security, Bulova has opted for a more refined and comfortable option for these anniversary editions. The new straps feature a robust rubber base, providing excellent water resistance and comfort against the skin. This rubber base is overlaid with a Cordura inlay, adding a touch of texture and enhancing the strap's overall durability. Cordura is a high-performance fabric known for its resistance to abrasion, tears, and scuffs.

    Another significant update to the strap is its width. The previous MIL-SHIPS models had a 16mm lug width, which some felt was a bit narrow for the watch's 41mm case size. The new models feature an 18mm lug width, giving the strap a more substantial presence on the wrist and better balancing the proportions of the watch. The strap is secured with a simple, yet sturdy, three-piece wire strap buckle, finished in a bronze tone to match the case. The Olive Green dial is fitted with an army green strap, while the Deep Blue dial is fitted with a deep blue strap.

    Courtesy of Bulova
    Courtesy of Bulova


    The case measures 41mm in diameter, a versatile size that will suit a wide range of wrist sizes. It's large enough to have a presence on the wrist, but not so large that it becomes cumbersome or unwieldy. The lug width, as mentioned, is 18mm. The overall design of the case is relatively simple and utilitarian, reflecting the watch's military origins.

    The new Bulova MIL-SHIPS Bronze Special Edition watches are available for purchase at a price of $1,195. This price point positions them competitively within the market for bronze dive watches, especially considering their historical significance, unique features, and the quality of their construction. These timepieces are presented in premium packaging, accompanied by a storybook that delves into the history of the original MIL-SHIPS and Bulova's involvement with the U.S. Navy. This attention to detail enhances the overall ownership experience and makes these watches particularly appealing to collectors and enthusiasts.

    Case: 41mm diameter, CuSn8 bronze with sandblasted finish. Aluminum bi-directional rotating bezel. Double-domed sapphire crystal with 5-layer anti-reflective coating. Water resistant to 200 meters. 16mm Lug Width.

    Movement: 83S0, Automatic. 21 jewels, 60-hour power reserve.

    Dial: Available in green (98A324) or blue (98A325). Luminous hands and markers. Bi-color moisture indicator strip.

    Strap: 18mm, Hybrid rubber and Cordura® nylon. 3pc Wire Strap Buckle.

    Price: $1,195.00

    Reference Number: 98A324 (Green Dial), 98A325 (Blue Dial)

    Notes: Based on a rare 1957 prototype developed for the U.S. Navy. Commemorates Bulova's 150th Anniversary. Features a case back embossed with a 150th Anniversary design.
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