In the realm of luxury watches, where heritage and prestige are tightly woven into the fabric of every timepiece,
Bulgari stands as a brand that constantly strives to break the mold. Founded in 1884 in Rome, Italy, Bulgari has always been a leader in crafting bold and audacious jewelry, and this same daring spirit has translated into their watchmaking division. Over the years, Bulgari has consistently pushed the boundaries of what a watch can be, both in terms of design and technical innovation.
One of Bulgari's most impressive collections is the Octo Finissimo. This line of ultra-thin watches has become synonymous with Bulgari's commitment to watchmaking excellence. The Octo Finissimo series debuted in 2014 with a tourbillon that held the record for the thinnest tourbillon movement at that time. Since then, the Octo Finissimo has collected numerous accolades for its record-breaking thinness across various complications, including the thinnest automatic watch, the thinnest chronograph tourbillon automatic watch, and the thinnest repeater watch.
Courtesy of Bulgari
The Octo Finissimo series is more than just a collection of record-breaking feats; it's a testament to Bulgari's innovative spirit and its ability to fuse traditional watchmaking techniques with cutting-edge technology. The watches are instantly recognizable by their unique octagonal case design, a bold departure from the traditional round case. The octagonal shape is not merely aesthetic; it allows Bulgari's watchmakers to maximize the surface area of the movement, contributing to the overall thinness of the watches.
In 2024, Bulgari once again rewrote the record books with the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, the world's thinnest mechanical watch. Having reclaimed the record from the
Richard Mille Ferrari RM UP-01. At a staggering 1.70 millimeters thick, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC pushes the boundaries of miniaturization in watchmaking. The watch is not just incredibly thin; it is also a COSC-certified chronometer, meaning it has undergone rigorous testing to ensure its accuracy. This achievement is particularly impressive considering the challenges of ensuring precision timekeeping in such a thin profile.
Courtesy of Bulgari
The Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC is a marvel of engineering. The watch features a sandblasted titanium case and bracelet, both contributing to its remarkable thinness. The sandblasted finish imparts a contemporary, matte look to the watch, and the titanium construction ensures it is lightweight and comfortable to wear on the wrist. A closer look reveals the openworked dial, a signature feature of the Octo Finissimo series. The openworked dial offers a glimpse into the inner workings of the ultra-thin movement, allowing the wearer to appreciate the intricate mechanics at play.
The heart of the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC is the BVL180 caliber – a hand-wound mechanical movement that represents a triumph of micro-engineering. To achieve the astonishing thinness of 1.50mm, Bulgari's watchmakers had to reimagine traditional watchmaking architecture. Gone is the conventional main plate; instead, the movement components are integrated directly onto the sandblasted tungsten carbide caseback. Tungsten carbide is an incredibly dense and scratch-resistant material, providing a stable foundation for the delicate components.
Despite its miniscule footprint, the BVL180 caliber packs a 50-hour power reserve, ensuring practicality alongside its exceptional thinness. The user can wind the movement and set the time using a pair of ratchet wheels with a geometric design exposed at the edge of the case. Instead of a traditional crown, these wheels provide a streamlined and ingenious way of interacting with the watch's functions.
Courtesy of Bulgari
Observing the BVL180 through the openworked dial is an exercise in mechanical fascination. Traditional bridges have been replaced with thin, skeletonized elements, revealing the intricate interplay of gears, springs, and jewels. The finishing, as expected on a Bulgari movement, is impeccable. Components feature chamfering, sandblasting, and a black PVD coating. Even at this microscopic scale, Bulgari adheres to the highest standards of watchmaking refinement.
One aspect that sets the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC apart from many previous ultra-thin concept watches is its COSC certification. The Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) is an independent organization that subjects watch movements to rigorous chronometric testing over several days and in various positions and temperatures. Only movements that meet COSC's exacting standards for accuracy receive the coveted chronometer certification.
The COSC certification of the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC speaks volumes about Bulgari's dedication to precision even within the constraints of extreme thinness. Achieving chronometric performance in such a miniature movement is a testament to the brand's technical mastery and unwavering attention to detail.
Courtesy of Bulgari
While the battle for the slimmest mechanical watch has been a source of fascination for enthusiasts and watchmakers alike, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC raises a pertinent question: Is there a practical limit to the pursuit of thinness? Bulgari's creation pushes the boundaries so far that it forces us to reevaluate our understanding of what an ultra-thin watch can be.
The Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC challenges traditional notions of wearability. With its 1.70mm thickness, it sits almost flush against the skin. While Bulgari has ensured that the titanium case and integrated bracelet offer sufficient rigidity, the watch undoubtedly demands a level of care and awareness from the wearer compared to bulkier timepieces.
Yet, the sacrifices that come with wearing an exceptional work of engineering are often a crucial part of the appeal. Like a supercar with ground-scraping clearance and minimal luggage space, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC represents the pinnacle of its field, an exercise in pushing the limits of what is possible, practicality notwithstanding. It isn't designed for everyone, but that's the point.
Courtesy of Bulgari
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC is a true landmark watch. It cements Bulgari's position at the vanguard of ultra-thin watchmaking and represents a significant milestone in this niche domain of haute horlogerie. The watch's innovations, such as using the caseback as the movement's baseplate, will undoubtedly inspire and influence future horological endeavors. It's a reminder that even in a traditional craft like watchmaking, boundaries are still meant to be broken.
Beyond its technical achievements, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC underscores Bulgari's unwavering commitment to innovation. It's a testament to the brand's willingness to invest in research and development, challenging its watchmakers to think outside the box. In a world where watchmaking heritage is often emphasized, Bulgari proudly carves its own path with the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, a watch that's as much about looking forward as it is about technical virtuosity.