• Breitling Top Time B31 Retro Meets Modern
  • Breitling Top Time B31

    Retro Meets Modern

    Hourstriker Staff
    Words by: Hourstriker Staff
    March 25, 2025
  • Breitling has recently unveiled its latest addition to the esteemed Top Time collection: the Top Time B31. Marking a significant milestone for the brand, this release introduces the Manufacture B31 movement, Breitling's first in-house, three-hand movement. This launch underscores Breitling's continuous evolution and commitment to horological craftsmanship. The Top Time B31, with its retro-modern aesthetic, builds upon the legacy of its predecessors while carving out its own niche in the world of fine timepieces. The design philosophy behind the Top Time B31 pays homage to the classic-car dashboard clocks, which gives the dial a vintage charm, while the 38mm case size offers a contemporary fit.

    The historical context of Breitling is crucial to understanding the significance of the Top Time B31. Founded in 1884 by Léon Breitling, the company quickly established itself as a pioneer in the field of chronographs. Breitling's early innovations were primarily focused on precision instruments for aviation and industrial use. The brand's dedication to precision and functionality earned it a reputation among professionals, particularly pilots, who relied on Breitling's instruments for accurate timekeeping during flights. In the mid-20th century, Breitling expanded its offerings, introducing wrist chronographs that captured the spirit of the era. The original Top Time, launched in the 1960s, epitomized this approach, featuring a bold design that resonated with a younger, more style-conscious audience. This model was not just about functionality; it was a statement of individuality and adventure.

    Courtesy of Breitling
    Courtesy of Breitling


    The design of the original Top Time was a departure from traditional watch aesthetics. It embraced a more playful and dynamic look, characterized by its distinctive "Zorro" dial and vibrant color schemes. The watch quickly gained popularity, appealing to both men and women with its sporty yet refined appearance. Its association with motorsports and the free-spirited lifestyle of the 1960s further cemented its status as an iconic timepiece. James Bond, the epitome of cool sophistication, famously wore a modified Top Time in the 1965 film Thunderball, adding to the watch's allure and legacy.

    The new Top Time B31 collection revisits this rich heritage while introducing modern innovations. The three available colorways offer variety and personality. The green dial version, paired with a perforated green calfskin strap, evokes a sense of classic racing heritage. The green is deep and lustrous, providing a rich backdrop for the contrasting black minute track and the vibrant orange seconds hand. This model exudes a sporty, vintage vibe, reminiscent of classic sports cars and open-road adventures. The perforated strap, inspired by racing gloves, adds to the thematic consistency and enhances the watch's overall aesthetic appeal.

    The blue dial variant, available with a three-row stainless-steel bracelet, presents a more contemporary and versatile option. The Deep Blue dial provides a sophisticated backdrop to the crisp white indexes and the orange seconds hand. This watch is perfect for an array of settings. The stainless-steel bracelet adds a touch of sleekness, making the watch suitable for both casual and more formal occasions. The combination of blue and steel is a classic pairing that never goes out of style.

    Courtesy of Breitling
    Courtesy of Breitling


    The two-tone model features a white dial with a sky-blue minute ring, offering a fresh and distinctive look. This version, also paired with a perforated brown calfskin strap, strikes a balance between vintage charm and modern flair. The sky-blue minute ring adds a pop of color that is both subtle and eye-catching, while the brown leather strap provides a warm, classic contrast. This model stands out for its unique color combination, offering a stylish alternative for those who appreciate a touch of individuality.

    The 38mm case size of the Top Time B31 is a deliberate choice, reflecting a trend towards more universally wearable dimensions. This size ensures that the watch is comfortable on a variety of wrist sizes, striking a balance between presence and subtlety. The case is crafted from stainless steel, a material chosen for its durability and resistance to corrosion. The polished finish of the case adds a touch of refinement, catching the light and enhancing the watch's visual appeal. The slim profile of the case, made possible by the tapered lugs and the two-tiered crystal, ensures a comfortable fit, hugging the wrist in a way that feels both secure and unobtrusive.

    Courtesy of Breitling
    Courtesy of Breitling


    The dial of the Top Time B31 is a masterclass in functional design. The applied indexes are prominent and easy to read, ensuring excellent legibility in various lighting conditions. The magnified date aperture at the 6 o'clock position is a thoughtful addition, providing practicality without disrupting the overall balance of the dial. The contrasting minute track, a nod to the original Top Time's tachymeter scale, adds a sporty touch and enhances the watch's readability. The orange seconds hand provides a vibrant pop of color across all three models, adding a playful element to the otherwise classic design.

    The Caliber B31 movement, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, is the heart of the Top Time B31. This movement represents a significant milestone for Breitling, being the brand's first in-house designed and developed three-hand movement. Four years in the making, the B31 builds upon the engineering excellence established by the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, the benchmark for chronograph movements introduced in 2009. The B31 features a free-sprung balance wheel for improved precision and a skeletonized bidirectional oscillating weight that powers the automatic movement. These components are finished with Geneva stripes and perlage, showcasing Breitling's commitment to both performance and aesthetics.

    Courtesy of Breitling
    Courtesy of Breitling


    The B31 movement is a COSC-certified chronometer, guaranteeing exceptional accuracy and reliability. It undergoes rigorous testing, equivalent to 16 years of use, including 100,000 crown winds, 3,456,000 weight turns, and 60,000 shocks at 500 G. This thorough testing ensures that the movement can withstand the rigors of daily wear while maintaining its precision. The movement offers a power reserve of approximately 78 hours, meaning the watch can run for over three days when fully wound and not worn. This extended power reserve is a practical feature for those who may not wear the watch every day.

    The straps available for the Top Time B31 further enhance its versatility. The perforated leather straps, available in green and brown, are inspired by classic racing gloves, adding a sporty and vintage touch. The perforations not only enhance the aesthetic appeal but also improve breathability, making the watch more comfortable to wear, especially in warmer climates. The three-row stainless-steel bracelet, with its asymmetrical center link, is a Breitling signature that adds a touch of sportiness and sophistication. The bracelet is robust and designed for comfort, ensuring that the watch sits securely on the wrist.

    The introduction of the Top Time B31 is accompanied by the announcement of Austin Butler as a brand ambassador. Butler, known for his roles in Elvis, Dune 2, and The Bikeriders, embodies the spirit of the Top Time collection. His career, defined by freedom and a willingness to take on diverse roles, aligns perfectly with the Top Time's ethos of individuality and adventure. Butler's endorsement adds a contemporary relevance to the collection, connecting it with a new generation of watch enthusiasts.

    Courtesy of Breitling
    Courtesy of Breitling


    Breitling CEO Georges Kern emphasizes that the Top Time B31 is about "watchmaking distilled to its essentials—pure timekeeping, easy wearability, and distinct character." This statement encapsulates the essence of the collection, which aims to deliver a high-quality, reliable timepiece with a unique design. The Top Time B31 is not just a tool for telling time; it is a companion for those who value style, precision, and a sense of adventure. The watch's design and functionality make it suitable for a wide range of activities, from casual everyday wear to more adventurous pursuits.

    In terms of pricing and availability, the Top Time B31 models are positioned as accessible luxury timepieces. The blue dial version (AB3113A71C1A1) and the green dial version (AB3113171L1A1) are priced at USD 5,900, while the white dial version with the blue minute ring (AB3113281A1X1) is priced at USD 5,600.

    Case: Stainless steel. 38mm diameter. Screwed in, sapphire crystal caseback. Water-resistant to 10 bars. Fixed bezel. Non screw-locked crown with two gaskets. Cambered sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides. Lug width 20mm.

    Movement: Breitling B31 (Manufacture Breitling & AMT). Self-winding mechanical. Approximately 70-hour power reserve. 28,800 v.p.h.

    Dial: Three colorways: green, blue, or a two-tone combination of white and sky-blue. Features applied indexes. Magnified date aperture. Minute's track.

    Strap: Options include a three-row stainless-steel bracelet or a perforated calfskin strap.

    Price: USD 5,900 (blue and green dial), USD 5,600 (white dial with blue minute ring).

    Reference Number: AB3113A71C1A1 (blue dial), AB3113281A1X1 (white dial), AB3113171L1A1 (green dial).

    Notes: Introduces the Caliber B31, Breitling's first three-hand manufacture movement. Austin Butler is the face of the new Top Time B31.
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