Blancpain has added a significant new reference to its core lineup, introducing the Fifty Fathoms Automatique in a 42.3 mm polished stainless steel case. This move brings a popular, slightly reduced case size, previously seen in limited or precious metal editions, into the permanent collection with a material known for its durability and bright finish, broadening the appeal of this foundational dive watch design. It represents a direct nod to the historical roots of the collection while catering to contemporary preferences for case dimensions and materials.
The history of
Blancpain is deeply intertwined with the advent of underwater exploration technology. While the brand boasts a heritage stretching back centuries, its most defining contribution for many modern enthusiasts arrived in 1953. This was the year Blancpain, responding to the rigorous demands of French combat swimmers led by Captain Robert "Bob" Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud, developed the Fifty Fathoms. It wasn't just another watch; it was conceived as a vital piece of subaquatic equipment.
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The original Fifty Fathoms effectively set the blueprint for the modern dive watch. It incorporated several groundbreaking features born from necessity: a robust rotating bezel to track dive time, which crucially locked to prevent accidental adjustments; exceptional water resistance, initially rated to 50 fathoms or approximately 91.44 meters; an automatic movement to reduce the need for manual winding, thus minimizing wear on the crown seals; and a high-contrast dial with prominent luminous markers and hands for unambiguous readability in murky or dark underwater conditions. Anti-magnetic properties were also integrated to protect the movement's accuracy from equipment interference.
This combination of features made the Fifty Fathoms an immediate success, not just with the French frogmen but also with diving pioneers and military units across the globe. It became a tool relied upon in perilous environments, establishing a reputation for ruggedness and dependability. The watch's purpose-built design, dictated by function, resulted in an aesthetic that has endured for over seventy years, influencing countless dive watches that followed in its wake. The Fifty Fathoms wasn't just present during the golden age of diving; it helped enable it.
Over the subsequent decades, the Fifty Fathoms collection saw various iterations and advancements, adapting to new technologies and materials while generally staying true to its core design principles. The line expanded, incorporating different complications, case materials, and sizes, yet the fundamental look – the distinctive bezel, the clear dial layout, the robust case shape – remained recognizable. Recent years saw Blancpain experiment with sizing, notably releasing a 42mm version for the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1 in 2023 as a limited edition, followed by non-limited versions in grade 23 titanium and red gold.
Now, in 2024, Blancpain takes the logical next step by introducing the 42mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique into its standard offerings cased in polished stainless steel. This reference, designated 5010, directly answers the call from enthusiasts who admired the proportions of the anniversary model and the titanium/gold versions but desired the classic look and feel of steel. The choice of a polished finish distinguishes it further, offering a different character compared to the often-brushed finishes typical of tool watches.
The case itself measures 42.3 mm in diameter and 14.3 mm in thickness, dimensions many find offer a comfortable and balanced presence on the wrist, slightly more wearable for a wider range of people than the traditional 45mm Fifty Fathoms models. Crafted from stainless steel, the entire case receives a high-polish finish. This treatment gives the watch a brilliant luster, allowing it to catch and reflect light dynamically from its various curves and angles, lending it a more upscale appearance compared to its brushed counterparts. The lug width is specified at 21.5 mm, a slightly non-standard size that potential strap swappers should note.
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The decision to use a fully polished finish on a watch with such strong tool-watch roots is interesting. While brushed finishes are often preferred for their ability to hide minor scratches and their understated, utilitarian look, the polished steel grants this Fifty Fathoms variant a certain flashiness. It doesn't detract from its capability – the inherent toughness of steel remains – but it does shift its aesthetic slightly, making it perhaps more versatile for wear outside of purely adventurous contexts. The bright gleam of the case sides and lug tops contrasts effectively with the darker elements of the dial and bezel.
Integral to the Fifty Fathoms identity is its bezel, and the Ref. 5010 adheres to tradition with modern materials. It features a unidirectional rotating bezel, a critical safety feature for diving that allows tracking of elapsed time and only rotates counter-clockwise to prevent accidental overestimation of remaining air supply. The base of the bezel is satin-brushed steel, providing a subtle textural contrast to the polished case. Set into this is a black ceramic insert, known for its scratch resistance and colorfastness. The dive scale markers and numerals on the insert are rendered in Liquidmetal™, a metallic glass alloy that bonds seamlessly with ceramic, offering durability and a smooth finish.
Protecting this bezel insert is a distinctive feature of the modern Fifty Fathoms: a domed sapphire crystal cap. This layer of sapphire, renowned for its extreme scratch resistance (second only to diamond), covers the entire bezel insert, giving it a deep, glossy appearance and a unique profile. This domed sapphire element significantly contributes to the watch's overall visual depth and reflective quality, complementing the polished case and enhancing the luxurious feel while simultaneously providing superior protection for the crucial timing scale beneath it.
Turning attention to the dial, Blancpain opts for maximum clarity and a classic dive watch look. The dial color is a deep black, finished with a sunburst pattern. This sunburst finish allows the dial to play with light, radiating subtle lines outwards from the center and shifting in appearance depending on the viewing angle, adding a touch of dynamism to the otherwise starkly functional layout. There is no gem-setting, maintaining the focus on utility and legibility.
Legibility, a cornerstone of the original 1953 design, is paramount here. The dial features large, applied hour markers – typically a mix of triangular, circular, and rectangular shapes common to the Fifty Fathoms design language – filled generously with luminescent material. The broad hands, also filled with lume, provide a clear distinction between hours and minutes. This combination ensures excellent readability in all lighting conditions, especially in low light or underwater, honoring the functional requirements that birthed the collection. The contrast between the bright lume and the black dial is stark and effective.
Protecting the dial is a primary sapphire crystal, presumably with anti-reflective coating to minimize glare and maximize visibility. Complementing this is the exhibition case back, also fitted with sapphire crystal. This allows an unobstructed view of the mechanical heart powering the watch, a feature appreciated by those who admire the intricacies of watchmaking. The screw-down case back, along with a robust screw-down crown (featuring Blancpain's logo), ensures the watch's substantial water resistance rating.
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Beating inside the polished steel case is the Blancpain Caliber 1315. This automatic movement is not new but is a well-regarded workhorse within the brand's stable, first introduced back in 2007. It was developed from the outset to be robust, reliable, and offer a substantial power reserve, making it an ideal engine for a watch designed for demanding use. It is composed of 227 individual components.
One of the standout features of the Caliber 1315 is its impressive power reserve. Thanks to the use of three series-coupled mainspring barrels, the movement can store enough energy to run continuously for 120 hours, or a full five days, after being fully wound. This extended autonomy is a significant convenience, allowing the owner to take the watch off for several days without needing to reset the time when they put it back on.
For precision and long-term reliability, the Caliber 1315 incorporates modern technology. It operates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), a standard beat rate for modern automatic movements that balances accuracy and longevity. Crucially, it utilizes a silicon balance spring. Silicon (Si) is completely anti-magnetic, resistant to corrosion, and less susceptible to deformation from temperature changes and minor shocks compared to traditional metal alloys. This contributes significantly to the movement's chronometric stability and resilience, particularly important for a watch potentially exposed to magnetic fields or varying environmental conditions. The movement also features 35 jewels to minimize friction at critical points. Blancpain also notes it as a "secure movement," suggesting built-in shock protection systems.
The view through the sapphire case back reveals that the Caliber 1315 isn't just functional; it's also finished to high standards, consistent with Blancpain's position in haute horlogerie. While perhaps not as elaborate as some high-complication movements, the finishing includes traditional techniques like beveling and different surface decorations. A prominent feature is the oscillating weight (rotor) responsible for automatic winding. Crafted from solid 18-carat red gold, it adds a touch of luxury and density (aiding winding efficiency). It receives an NAC treatment, a durable platinum alloy coating, giving it a dark, modern look. Significantly, the rotor's design, with its open-worked sections, specifically recalls the style of the rotor used in the original 1953 Fifty Fathoms, forging another link to the watch's heritage.
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Water resistance remains a key performance metric for any Fifty Fathoms. This new steel model boasts a rating of 30 bar, equivalent to approximately 300 meters or nearly 1000 feet. This depth rating far exceeds the original 50 fathoms (approx. 91 meters) specification and places the watch firmly in the category of professional-grade dive instruments, suitable for virtually all recreational and most professional diving activities. This capability underscores that despite its polished finish, the watch retains its serious tool watch credentials.
Blancpain offers this new Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm steel model with a variety of strap and bracelet options, allowing buyers to tailor the watch's look and feel. The flagship option is a three-link stainless steel bracelet (Ref. 5010-1130-71S) with a polished finish that matches the case, providing a cohesive and substantial metal-on-metal aesthetic. This option likely appeals to those seeking a classic, durable configuration suitable for various environments, including water exposure.
Alternatively, the watch can be paired with several strap choices. A "Tropic" style rubber strap (Ref. 5010-1130-B64B) evokes the vintage dive watches of the 1960s and 70s, known for their textured pattern and durability in water. There's also a sailcloth strap option (Ref. 5010-1130-B52B), offering a more technical, modern textile look that's also water-resistant. Both the Tropic rubber and sailcloth straps are available with either a traditional pin buckle or a more premium deployant clasp, with the clasp option commanding a higher price.
Finally, a NATO strap option (Ref. 5010-1130-NABA) provides a rugged, military-inspired look. NATO straps are known for their security (the watch head remains attached even if one spring bar fails) and comfort. This choice perhaps aligns most closely with the utilitarian origins of the Fifty Fathoms, offering a more casual and tool-oriented vibe compared to the polished bracelet. The variety ensures that the watch can be adapted to different styles and activities right from the point of purchase.
The steel bracelet option is finished to complement the polished case, featuring polished center links flanked by brushed outer links, or potentially fully polished links, creating an integrated look. The clasp mechanism would likely be robust and secure, possibly incorporating a diver's extension to allow it to be worn over a wetsuit sleeve, though specific details on the clasp mechanism aren't provided in the source text.
The Tropic rubber strap offers a comfortable, waterproof alternative with a distinct retro charm. Sailcloth straps provide a modern, durable textile option that's resistant to water and wear, often preferred for their comfort and sporty look. The NATO strap delivers a no-nonsense, secure fit with a clear military heritage, easily interchangeable and washable. Each choice subtly alters the personality of the watch, from dressy diver on the bracelet to vintage tool on the Tropic, technical instrument on sailcloth, or field gear on the NATO.
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The 42mm Fifty Fathoms sits alongside the titanium and red gold 42mm versions and the larger 45mm models, providing buyers with more choice in size and material within the iconic Fifty Fathoms family. It bridges the gap between the purely functional aspect of the titanium version and the luxury statement of the red gold model. This model appeals to a broad segment of watch enthusiasts. Those who admire the rich history and foundational design of the Fifty Fathoms but find the classic 45mm size too large will appreciate the more moderate 42.3mm diameter. The choice of polished steel offers the durability and relative accessibility of steel combined with a brighter, more eye-catching finish than brushed alternatives. It's a watch for someone who wants a high-performance Swiss dive watch from a historic brand, appreciates fine mechanical movements, and desires a versatile piece that can handle adventure but also look sharp in less demanding settings.
Blancpain has set the pricing based on the strap or bracelet choice. The most accessible version is on the NATO strap (5010-1130-NABA) or with the pin buckle versions of the Tropic rubber or sailcloth straps, all priced at $15,500 USD. Opting for the Tropic rubber (5010-1130-B64B) or sailcloth strap (5010-1130-B52B) with a deployant clasp increases the price to $16,800 USD. The version on the matching polished stainless steel bracelet (5010-1130-71S) carries the highest price tag at $18,000 USD. As a permanent addition to the collection, the watch is available through Blancpain boutiques and authorized dealers worldwide.
Case: Polished Stainless Steel; Diameter 42.3 mm; Thickness 14.3 mm; Water Resistance 30 bar (approx. 300 meters); Unidirectional satin-brushed steel bezel with black ceramic insert, Liquidmetal™ markers, and domed sapphire crystal cap; Sapphire crystal case back; Width between horns 21.5 mm.
Movement: Blancpain Caliber 1315; Automatic winding; 120-hour (5-day) power reserve from three series-coupled barrels; Frequency 4 Hz (28,800 vph); 35 jewels; 227 components; 5.65 mm thick; Silicon balance spring; Secure movement design; 18k red gold oscillating weight with NAC treatment echoing 1953 rotor design.
Dial: Black color with sunburst finish; Large luminescent applied hour markers and hands for high visibility; No gem-setting.
Strap: Available on a polished stainless steel bracelet, Tropic rubber strap (pin buckle or deployant clasp), sailcloth strap (pin buckle or deployant clasp), or NATO strap. Lug width 21.5 mm.
Price: $18,000 USD (Steel bracelet); $16,800 USD (Tropic rubber/Sailcloth w/ deployant); $15,500 USD (Tropic rubber/Sailcloth w/ pin buckle); $15,500 USD (NATO strap). Prices as of initial release information.
Reference Number: 5010-1130 (base reference); 5010-1130-71S (on steel bracelet). Other strap references: 5010-1130-B64B (Tropic/deployant), 5010-1130-B52B (Sailcloth/deployant), 5010-1130-NABA (NATO). Pin buckle versions likely have different final characters.
Notes: Marks the introduction of the 42mm Fifty Fathoms size in polished stainless steel into the permanent collection. Features the Caliber 1315 with a 5-day power reserve and silicon balance spring. Pays homage to the original 1953 Fifty Fathoms with modern materials and dimensions.