The world of horology is a realm of enduring traditions and constant evolution, a place where the past informs the present and sets the stage for the future.
Blancpain has been a fixture in the world of watchmaking for centuries. Their rich heritage intertwines with the creation of a watch that would transform underwater exploration forever: the Fifty Fathoms.
Blancpain's origins date back to 1735 in the Swiss Jura Mountains. Their centuries of dedication to precision and craftsmanship set the stage for a timepiece that would revolutionize a field of human endeavor. In the early 1950s, French combat swimmers Captain Robert Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud sought to improve their underwater gear. What they needed was a watch that wasn't just water-resistant; it had to be a purpose-built tool for the depths. Blancpain, then under the leadership of Jean-Jacques Fiechter, an avid diver himself, took on the challenge.
Courtesy of Blancpain
In 1953, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was born. The name itself is a reference to an old English unit of measurement: a fathom is about six feet. This watch represented a quantum leap in dive watch design. Robust construction for unmatched water resistance, luminescent hands and indices for visibility in the murky deep, and a revolutionary rotating bezel with markers to time dives safely - these features were the hallmarks of the original Fifty Fathoms, making it the blueprint for the modern dive watch.
Take a moment and look at a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Its design is not merely attractive, but functional at its core. The large, bold indices and broad hands stand out starkly on a contrasting dark dial, a testament to prioritization of underwater legibility. The numerals of the unidirectional rotating bezel pop against its sapphire insert – another groundbreaking aspect of the design. Sapphire crystal, far more scratch-resistant than the acrylic common at the time, offered unparalleled durability.
The original Fifty Fathoms case featured a double-sealed crown for enhanced water resistance, while an automatic movement did away with the need for frequent manual winding. These weren't just innovations; they were vital for reliability for those whose lives depended on a piece of equipment strapped to their wrist. The Fifty Fathoms quickly became a staple for military dive units worldwide, then spread to recreational and professional divers alike.
In 2003, Marc A. Hayek, Blancpain's president and CEO, ushered the Fifty Fathoms firmly into the 21st century. This saw the introduction of the high-performance in-house movement, the Calibre 1315. It offered not only precision timekeeping but an astounding five-day power reserve through its three series-coupled mainspring barrels. The case size grew to 45 mm to accommodate this powerful movement, and its rugged and refined design carried the Fifty Fathoms legacy forward.
Then in 2023, Blancpain celebrated the 70th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms with a limited-edition Act 1 model. This was a watershed moment, as it introduced the first 42mm Fifty Fathoms – a size widely appealing to the enthusiast community. Blancpain aficionados had been calling for this size for years, and it seemed that the Manufacture was listening.
Courtesy of Blancpain
Now in 2024, Blancpain has added the highly-anticipated 42-millimeter size in the Fifty Fathoms Automatique line to its regular collection. This move underscores the company's commitment to providing dive watch lovers with greater options in a more wearable and versatile size. The Fifty Fathoms Automatique maintains the same design language and features that made previous versions so popular. While smaller in diameter, the classic proportions make them instantly recognizable as descendants of the original.
The 42mm Automatique timepieces come in two captivating executions: 18K red gold and grade 23 titanium. The warm tones of the red gold exude sportiness with a touch of sophistication. The lightweight yet incredibly strong titanium is distinctly modern, further amplifying the sporty aesthetic. Both versions are fitted with the venerable Calibre 1315 movement, visible through the sapphire caseback. Its intricate finishing and bespoke gold rotor decorated with a vintage Blancpain logo further showcase the Manufacture's meticulous attention to detail.
With a range of available straps including sailcloth, NATO, and rubber variations channeling the Tropic straps of past models, there's a Fifty Fathoms Automatique to suit every taste and adventure.
The Fifty Fathoms is more than just a dive watch. It embodies Blancpain's centuries-long tradition of horological excellence, their connection to the world's oceans, and their dedication to innovation. The 42mm Automatique marks an exciting new chapter in this legacy, a testament that some icons are destined to continuously evolve.
Upon first glance, there's a sense of familiarity with a touch of fresh energy. These watches aren't radical redesigns, but refinements. The iconic Fifty Fathoms DNA is present: the bold Arabic numerals at 12, 6, and 9, those broad, luminous hands... everything a dive watch needs for easy reading underwater is carried forward.
However, these dials are not mere clones. Blancpain offers a choice of sunburst blue or black dials in both red gold and titanium versions. The sunburst finish is subtle but catches the light beautifully, adding depth and complexity. It elevates these from pure tool watches to something you can easily pair with a crisp dress shirt.
Courtesy of Blancpain
The sapphire-topped bezel remains one of the defining features of the Fifty Fathoms. Its unidirectional rotation is a crucial safety mechanism for divers, allowing them to track elapsed time underwater. Blancpain's use of a sapphire insert provides excellent scratch resistance so your bezel always looks pristine.
Visible through the sapphire caseback is the powerhouse behind the Fifty Fathoms Automatique: the in-house Calibre 1315. This isn't some standard, off-the-shelf movement; it's designed and manufactured entirely by Blancpain. It's a testament to the Manufacture's watchmaking prowess.
The 1315 boasts not only precision, but an exceptional five-day power reserve. This is achieved thanks to three mainspring barrels connected in series. Think of them as extra-large fuel tanks, meaning you can take off this watch for a long weekend, and it'll be ready to go come Monday morning. It's a feature that, while not flashy, offers real-world practicality.
Blancpain hasn't skimped on looks with the 1315 either. It's finished to an exacting standard, from the snailed bridges and polished chamfers to the intricate 18K gold rotor coated in NAC (a platinum-derived alloy). The rotor's shape harks back to the original 1953 Fifty Fathoms, a subtle vintage nod that collectors will certainly appreciate.
Let's be honest, the previous 45mm Fifty Fathoms was a beast. While imposing and striking, it limited its wearer base to those with larger wrists. The 42mm Automatique model changes everything. The decrease of even a few millimeters brings the Fifty Fathoms into a much more versatile territory.
Courtesy of Blancpain
On the wrist, the 42mm feels incredibly well-balanced. The weight isn't excessive, something both the red gold and titanium versions benefit from. Despite being a capable dive watch, these slip under a dress cuff just as easily as they survive a swim with sharks.
It's worth noting, however, that the 21.5mm lug width might be a minor hurdle for strap enthusiasts. That said, the range of strap options Blancpain provides out of the box makes up for it.
This is where things get interesting. Let's start with the red gold version. This isn't your standard, rosy yellow gold. The warmth and richness of the 18K red gold used by Blancpain is distinct, making it a more refined option. The red gold models come with either a sailcloth or NATO strap. While I appreciate the nautical theme, the deployant buckle version will be my pick – that added touch of gold elevates the entire package.
Now, the grade 23 titanium models are where Blancpain leans heavily into the sporty side of ocean exploration. Titanium is renowned for its toughness, scratch resistance, and hypoallergenic properties. This makes it a practical choice for a watch designed for adventure. Plus, the lightness on the wrist is a serious advantage. The titanium versions come with blue or black straps to match the dial, plus the option for a killer titanium bracelet.
The case finishing across both versions is exquisite. While the red gold model has polished elements for a touch of dressiness, the dominant finishing for both is a satin brush. This gives them a slightly subdued, tool-like look that belies their luxurious construction.
Let's face it: the dive watch market is packed with options. Vintage reissues, homages, and modern interpretations abound. What makes the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique stand out? Its pedigree and its execution.
This isn't a watch built on a nostalgic reputation; it's a modern dive watch with a true lineage. Blancpain has successfully bridged the gap between vintage DNA and contemporary expectations. The in-house movement, luxurious finishing, and versatile sizing make the Fifty Fathoms Automatique not just a capable diver, but a watch built for long-lasting enjoyment.
Courtesy of Blancpain
Prices start at $16,600 for the Titanium version with a pin buckle and jump all the way up to $34,300 for a red gold version with a deployant clasp.
Would I recommend this watch? Absolutely. Will you find something similar at a lower price point? Probably. But the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms isn't just about what it does. It's how it makes you feel. On your wrist, it's a tangible connection to horological history, a tool for adventures, and a testament that some things were just built to last.