Bell & Ross BR-05 36 MM

Bell & Ross introduces a refined dimension to its urban watch lineup with the arrival of the BR-05 36 MM series. This launch addresses a growing interest in more compact watch diameters, offering a fresh perspective on the brand's established design language for those who appreciate subtlety and a tailored fit on the wrist. The introduction marks an evolution of the popular BR-05 collection, adapting its core characteristics into a smaller, yet equally assertive, format.

The journey of Bell & Ross began less than three decades ago, in 1994, founded by the collaborative vision of two friends, Carlos-A. Rosillo and Bruno Belamich. Sharing a deep fascination for both watchmaking and the world of aviation, they established a brand with a distinct Franco-Swiss identity. From its inception, Bell & Ross dedicated itself to creating timepieces that met the rigorous demands of professionals, particularly those operating in extreme environments, quickly carving out a niche in the sphere of professional aviation watches.



A pivotal moment arrived in 2005 with the launch of the BR 01. This watch fundamentally shifted design expectations, drawing direct inspiration from the cockpit instruments of aircraft. The result was the now-iconic "circle within a square" case shape, a visual signature that immediately set Bell & Ross apart. This design principle became the cornerstone around which the brand built its subsequent collections, ensuring a coherent identity across its diverse offerings.

This foundational design DNA permeates all major Bell & Ross lines. The BR 03 collection carries the torch for professional-grade instrument watches, emphasizing functionality and robustness. The BR-X5 range represents the brand's foray into more avant-garde designs and manufacture movements. Sitting between these is the BR-05 collection, introduced as the brand's interpretation of an urban timepiece, adapting the instrumental aesthetic for daily city life. Bell & Ross's motto, "From the cockpit to the wrist," encapsulates this philosophy, serving both professionals in demanding fields and individuals seeking watches that are both functional and visually distinctive.

The original BR-05, launched in 2019 with a 40mm case, was conceived as a contemporary urban watch. It successfully translated the brand's utilitarian, aviation-inspired "circle within a square" concept into a more refined context, suitable for navigating the modern metropolis. Its integrated bracelet design and blend of sporty and sophisticated lines quickly established it as a key pillar within the Bell & Ross catalogue, versatile enough for various settings.

The decision to introduce a 36mm variant stems from evolving preferences and a desire for greater inclusivity. Bruno Belamich, the Creative Director and Co-Founder, highlights that the BR-05 collection has always explored different sizes, including 41mm for GMT models and 42mm for chronographs. The move to 36mm wasn't arbitrary but a deliberate choice to "rethink this line to bring it into another dimension." The goal was to enhance the watch's adaptability, ensuring the bracelet integrates more seamlessly with a wider range of wrist sizes, thereby making the collection more appealing and accessible, notably to women, while maintaining its versatile, sport-chic character.



Shrinking the BR-05 presented significant technical hurdles. Achieving the new dimensions of 36mm in width and a notably slim 8.5mm profile demanded more than simple scaling. Belamich underscores the precision required, stating, "Every millimeter counts, every millimeter is noticeable." The BR-05's construction is inherently complex, involving an upper section secured to the main case by four prominent screws, ensuring structural integrity and water resistance. Re-engineering this assembly for the smaller format necessitated a complete redesign of virtually every component to ensure the 36mm version possessed its own distinct character while remaining unmistakably a BR-05.

The case itself is crafted from stainless steel, showcasing the signature Bell & Ross "circle within a square" silhouette, albeit in more compact proportions. It measures 36mm across and maintains a sleek profile with an 8.5mm thickness. The finishing is meticulous, featuring predominantly flat, satin-brushed surfaces contrasted by polished bevels along the edges. This interplay of finishes highlights the geometric lines and overlapping volumes of the case design. Functionality is maintained with a screw-down crown protected by integrated crown guards, contributing to the watch's overall robustness and water resistance.

Variety is offered through four distinct dial options, each lending the BR-05 36mm a unique personality while adhering to the collection's core design principles. These choices include Sunray Black, Grey Sunray, Sunray Ice Blue, and a distinctive Grade A Mother-of-Pearl. Each dial serves as the "face" of the watch, allowing wearers to select a version that best suits their individual style, ranging from classic and understated to bright and contemporary.

Despite the color variations, all dials share key features designed for optimal clarity. Bell & Ross prioritizes legibility, a principle evident here. The dials feature applied "Baignoire-style" (bathtub-shaped) numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9, complemented by applied baton indexes for the remaining hours. Both the numerals and indexes are generously filled with white Super-LumiNova® X1, which emits a green glow in low light conditions, ensuring readability around the clock.



The Sunray Black dial variant (BR05A-S-BL-ST/SST) offers a classic and versatile look. The deep black surface features a subtle sunray finish, catching the light dynamically without causing excessive glare. This version provides maximum contrast for the rhodium-plated hands and luminous markers, reinforcing the watch's functional roots while remaining suitable for almost any occasion. Its understated nature makes it a fundamental offering within the new size category.

The Grey Sunray model (BR05A-S-GR-ST/SST) presents a more contemporary and nuanced option. The grey hue, combined with the sunray brushing, creates a sophisticated metallic sheen that shifts depending on the viewing angle and lighting conditions. It offers a softer contrast compared to the black dial but maintains excellent legibility. This choice provides a modern alternative that pairs well with the steel case and bracelet.

For a brighter, more expressive look, the Sunray Ice Blue dial (BR05A-S-BU-ST/SST) stands out. This light, cool blue tone is currently fashionable in watchmaking and gives the BR-05 36mm a fresh, airy personality. The sunray finish adds depth to the color, making it dynamic and visually engaging. It represents a bolder choice within the collection, perfect for those seeking a distinctive touch.

The Grade A Mother-of-Pearl dial (BR05A-S-MP-ST/SST) introduces a different texture and aesthetic. Each mother-of-pearl dial is inherently unique due to the natural variations in the material. It exhibits a captivating iridescence, reflecting light in subtle rainbow hues across its white surface. This option adds a layer of refinement and organic beauty to the otherwise technical design of the BR-05, offering a particularly appealing choice within the gender-neutral context.

Legibility is further enhanced by the carefully designed handset. The hour and minute hands are skeletonized, reducing their visual weight while retaining ample surface area for Super-LumiNova® application. They are polished and rhodium-plated for a bright finish. The central seconds hand, also rhodium-plated, provides a clear indication of the watch's operation. This combination ensures that telling the time is intuitive and immediate, fulfilling the watch's primary function effectively.



Powering the BR-05 36 MM is the Caliber BR-CAL.329. This automatic mechanical movement provides the essential functions of hours, minutes, and seconds. It boasts a respectable power reserve of 54 hours, meaning the watch can be taken off for a couple of days without needing to be rewound. The selection of this reliable movement also plays a role in achieving the watch's relatively slim 8.5mm case thickness, contributing to its comfortable wearability.

The watch is presented on an integrated bracelet crafted from satin-polished steel, mirroring the finishing techniques used on the case. The design ensures a smooth visual transition from case to bracelet, creating a cohesive look. The links are engineered for suppleness, allowing the bracelet to conform comfortably to the wrist. The interplay between satin-brushed surfaces and polished accents continues onto the bracelet links, adding visual interest. It secures with a folding buckle, also made of steel with matching satin and polished finishes, providing a secure and seamless closure.

Protecting the dial is a sapphire crystal, known for its exceptional scratch resistance. An anti-reflective coating is applied to minimize glare and maximize clarity, ensuring the intricate details of the dial are always visible. Complementing the robust case construction and screw-down crown, the BR-05 36 MM offers a water resistance rating of 100 meters. This level of protection makes the watch suitable for everyday wear, including exposure to splashes, rain, and even surface swimming, reinforcing its versatile, go-anywhere nature.

Ultimately, the BR-05 36 MM is positioned as a highly versatile timepiece. It successfully adapts Bell & Ross's instrumental design language for an urban context, suitable for both professional environments and casual settings. Designed with a gender-neutral approach, its smaller size and refined proportions aim to appeal broadly, fitting comfortably on a diverse range of wrists and catering to the preferences of both men and women seeking a sophisticated yet sporty daily watch.

Bruno Belamich summarizes the design philosophy: "We designed the BR-05 36 mm as a dual iteration of the BR-05. It’s not just a focus on the core functions of a watch but also an evolution in proportions, all while staying true to our guiding principles of reliability, precision, and comfort." This statement encapsulates the essence of the new models – they are a focused refinement, prioritizing essential timekeeping and wearability within the established BR-05 framework.



These new 36mm additions broaden the appeal of the BR-05 line, offering a compelling option for those who found the previous sizes slightly too large or who simply prefer the proportions of a mid-size watch. They enter a competitive market segment for steel sports watches with integrated designs, bringing Bell & Ross's unique aviation-inspired aesthetic to this popular category in a more universally wearable format.

The Bell & Ross BR-05 36 MM collection is available through the brand's network of authorized retailers and exclusive boutiques, present in over 80 countries. All four steel models – the Black Steel (BR05A-S-BL-ST/SST), Grey Steel (BR05A-S-GR-ST/SST), Ice Blue Steel (BR05A-S-BU-ST/SST), and Mother Of Pearl Steel (BR05A-S-MP-ST/SST) – are priced at $4,300 USD each, offering a range of aesthetic choices within this new, more accessible size.

Case: 36 mm wide, 8.5 mm thick; Satin-polished steel construction; Screw-down crown with crown guard; Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating; Water-resistant to 100 metres.

Movement: Caliber BR-CAL.329; Automatic mechanical; 54-hour power reserve; Functions include hours, minutes, and seconds.

Dial: Options include Sunray black, Grey sunray, Sunray ice blue, or Grade A mother-of-pearl; Features "Baignoire-style" applique numerals and indexes filled with white Super-LumiNova® X1 (green emission); Skeletonised hour and minute hands also filled with white Super-LumiNova® X1 (green emission).

Strap: Integrated satin-polished steel bracelet; Folding buckle with satin-finished and polished steel.

Price: $4,300 USD

Reference Number: BR05A-S-BL-ST/SST (Black), BR05A-S-GR-ST/SST (Grey), BR05A-S-BU-ST/SST (Ice Blue), BR05A-S-MP-ST/SST (Mother-of-Pearl).

Notes: Introduces a new, more compact 36mm diameter and slim 8.5mm thickness to the BR-05 line; Retains the signature "circle in a square" design inspired by aviation instruments; Designed as a versatile, gender-neutral urban watch.