• Bell & Ross BR-03 Skeleton Three Distinct Personalities
  • Bell & Ross BR-03 Skeleton

    Three Distinct Personalities

    Hourstriker Staff
    Words by: Hourstriker Staff
    April 2, 2025
  • Bell & Ross, a name established in the watchmaking landscape since 1994, has consistently drawn inspiration from the demanding world of aviation. Their instruments often echo the functional clarity of cockpit gauges, a design ethos that culminated in the iconic square-cased BR-01 in 2005. Building on this foundation, the BR-03 collection emerged, offering a slightly more compact interpretation of the brand's signature aesthetic. Now, marking two decades of the BR-03, Bell & Ross introduces a new layer of mechanical artistry to this line with the launch of the BR-03 Skeleton trilogy.

    The story of Bell & Ross is rooted in the collaboration between two friends, Carlos-A. Rosillo and Bruno Belamich. Their shared fascination for aviation and horology led them to establish a brand with a distinct Franco-Swiss identity. From the outset, the focus was on creating reliable instruments for professionals operating in extreme environments. This dedication to functionality and legibility shaped the brand's design language, prioritizing clarity and robustness.

    Courtesy of Bell & Ross
    Courtesy of Bell & Ross


    The watershed moment arrived in 2005 with the BR-01. Inspired directly by aircraft dashboard instruments, its "circle within a square" case design broke conventional watchmaking molds and became an instant identifier for Bell & Ross. This unique shape, secured by four functional screws at the corners, wasn't merely aesthetic; it spoke to the brand's instrumental approach. This design philosophy permeates all Bell & Ross collections, from the professional-grade BR-03 to the more urban BR-05 and the technically advanced BR-X5 line featuring manufacture movements.

    The BR-03 collection itself holds a significant place within the Bell & Ross catalog. It retains the core "circle within a square" DNA but scales it down slightly for broader wearability while maintaining its professional tool-watch credentials. Over the past twenty years, the BR-03 has seen numerous iterations, exploring different materials, complications, and colorways. The introduction of the BR-03 Skeleton models, coinciding with the "20 YEARS BOLD" campaign celebrating the collection's anniversary, signifies a move towards showcasing intricate mechanics alongside functional design.

    Skeletonization, the art of removing material from movement components like bridges and plates without compromising structural integrity or function, is often regarded as a complication in its own right within horology. It's a meticulous process demanding exceptional skill and precision. The goal is to reveal the inner workings, transforming the movement from a hidden engine into a visible spectacle of interacting gears, springs, and levers. A successfully skeletonized watch offers a captivating view of the mechanical heart, celebrating the complexity of timekeeping.

    At the core of all three new BR-03 Skeleton watches beats the Caliber BR-CAL.328, an automatic mechanical movement specifically developed by Bell & Ross and manufactured exclusively for the brand. This movement was conceived with skeletonization in mind, designed from the ground up to be visually open and engaging. It provides the essential functions of hours, minutes, and seconds, foregoing a date display to maintain visual purity and focus on the mechanics. A healthy 54-hour power reserve ensures practical autonomy off the wrist.

    A defining characteristic of the BR-CAL.328 is its unique upper bridge structure. This structure forms a prominent X-shape across the movement, with four double arms extending outwards, visually connecting to the four functional bezel screws that are hallmarks of the BR case design. This architectural choice is not merely decorative; it reinforces the technical and modern aesthetic of the Skeleton series, creating a strong visual anchor that draws the eye into the depths of the mechanism.

    The simultaneous launch of three distinct BR-03 Skeleton models is a deliberate strategy by Bell & Ross, showcasing the versatility of the core concept. This isn't just about changing dial colors; it's an exploration of three different themes through materials and finishing. One model emphasizes transparency and minimalism, another transforms the tool watch into a piece of metallic sculpture, and the third pushes the boundaries of luminescence. Together, they demonstrate the brand's proficiency in handling diverse materials like ceramic and steel, and its creative flair in dial design and finishing.

    Courtesy of Bell & Ross
    Courtesy of Bell & Ross


    The BR-03 Skeleton Black Ceramic embodies the fusion of skeletonization with transparency, staying true to Bell & Ross's aeronautical roots. Black ceramic, a material favored in aviation for its durability, scratch resistance, and stealthy appearance (found in cockpit instruments and aircraft fuselages), provides the perfect frame. The watch presents a cohesive visual between the exposed movement and the dial elements, resulting in a technical yet understated look.

    Visually, the BR-03 Skeleton Black Ceramic features a 41mm case crafted from microblasted black ceramic. This process gives the surface a non-reflective, matte finish that absorbs light, enhancing its tool-like character. The signature square shape is instantly recognizable, defined by sharp lines and the four prominent screws securing the bezel. The ceramic material ensures the watch is lightweight and highly resistant to scratches, maintaining its deep black appearance over time.

    The dial of the Black Ceramic version utilizes a tinted transparent panel, offering a smoky view of the BR-CAL.328 movement beneath. Applied "Baignoire-style" numerals and indexes, also finished in black, float above this panel. These markers, along with the skeletonized hour and minute hands, are filled with white Super-LumiNova X1, which emits a bright green glow in low light conditions. This ensures excellent legibility, a non-negotiable trait for Bell & Ross, despite the intricate openworked design. The contrast between the dark components and the bright lume is crucial for readability.

    Technically, the BR-03 Skeleton Black Ceramic measures 41mm in width and 10.60mm in thickness. It houses the automatic BR-CAL.328 movement providing hours, minutes, and seconds, and boasting a 54-hour power reserve. Water resistance is rated at a capable 100 meters, suitable for surface swimming. Protecting the dial is a sapphire crystal treated with an anti-reflective coating to minimize glare and maximize clarity when viewing the intricate dial and movement.

    Completing the Black Ceramic package are two strap options. The primary strap is made of black rubber, known for its comfort and durability, perfectly complementing the watch's sporty and technical nature. An additional strap made from an ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric, reminiscent of military or aviation gear, is also included. Both attach via a robust pin buckle made from steel coated with a matte black PVD finish achieved through microblasting, ensuring a cohesive look with the case.

    Courtesy of Bell & Ross
    Courtesy of Bell & Ross


    Shifting focus, the BR-03 Skeleton Grey Steel offers a different interpretation, transforming the functional design into what Bell & Ross describes as a contemporary, metallic jewel. Here, the emphasis is on the interplay of light across different finishes and the inherent beauty of the steel material itself, juxtaposed against the exposed mechanics of the BR-CAL.328 movement. This version is offered as a limited edition of 250 pieces.

    The case of the Grey Steel model is also 41mm wide but slightly thinner than its ceramic counterpart, measuring 9.65mm thick. It is crafted from stainless steel, employing a mix of satin-brushed and polished finishes. This combination creates dynamic reflections as light hits the surfaces, highlighting the precise geometry of the square case and round bezel. The polished chamfers contrast against the brushed flat surfaces, lending the watch a more refined feel compared to the utilitarian matte ceramic.

    Instead of a tinted crystal, the dial of the BR-03 Skeleton Grey Steel features a faceted and openworked plate, treated with ruthenium for added brilliance and a dark metallic sheen. This plate forms the structural base for the applied "Baignoire-style" indexes, which are filled with white Super-LumiNova X1 for green emission. The hour and minute hands are skeletonized and rhodium-plated for a bright, silvery appearance, also filled with lume. The seconds hand is solid and rhodium-plated. According to Bruno Belamich, the faceting on the dial plate is designed to echo the complex surfaces of a stealth aircraft, adding another layer of avant-garde design inspiration.

    The technical specifications for the Grey Steel version mirror the Black Ceramic in most aspects: the reliable BR-CAL.328 automatic movement with its 54-hour power reserve, hours, minutes, and seconds functions, 100-meter water resistance, and an anti-reflective sapphire crystal. The key difference lies in the case material (steel) and dimensions (41mm wide, 9.65mm thick).

    Matching the case, the BR-03 Skeleton Grey Steel comes with a black rubber strap and an ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric strap. The pin buckle is crafted from steel and features both satin-finished and polished surfaces, directly echoing the finishing found on the watch case itself, creating a harmonious connection between the case and the buckle. This model is currently available for pre-order, with shipping anticipated for late April 2025.

    The third and arguably most expressive member of the trilogy is the BR-03 Skeleton Lum Ceramic. This model pushes Bell & Ross's affinity for luminescence to the forefront, creating a watch with a distinct dual personality. By day, it presents as a sophisticated, modern watch with its black ceramic case; by night, it transforms into a radiant display of glowing lines and shapes, offering a truly futuristic aesthetic. This version is also a limited edition of 250 pieces and is exclusively available through Bell & Ross Boutiques and their online e-Boutique.

    Courtesy of Bell & Ross
    Courtesy of Bell & Ross


    Like the first model, the Skeleton Lum Ceramic utilizes a 41mm microblasted black ceramic case, providing that same matte, scratch-resistant, and stealthy foundation. It measures 11.25mm in thickness, making it slightly thicker than the other two models, potentially to accommodate the specific dial construction related to the extensive lume application. The overall visual is purposeful and modern.

    The dial is where the Lum Ceramic truly distinguishes itself. It features a skeletonized design built around an openworked black plate. Crucially, the outlines of this plate's cut-outs are traced with Super-LumiNova X1 C3, a type known for its powerful green glow. The "Baignoire-style" applique indexes and the skeletonized hour and minute hands are also generously filled with the same C3 lume. The result, as Bruno Belamich explains, is a "neon-like photoluminescent effect" that effectively X-rays the skeletonization in the dark, highlighting the structure of the movement's bridges and exposing the blackened gears beneath a tinted sapphire crystal layer. This extensive use of lume transcends mere legibility; it becomes a primary decorative element.

    The core technical features of the BR-03 Skeleton Lum Ceramic align with its siblings: the exclusive BR-CAL.328 automatic movement ticking inside, offering a 54-hour power reserve and displaying hours, minutes, and seconds. It maintains the 100-meter water resistance rating and uses an anti-reflective sapphire crystal. The specific dimensions are 41mm in width and 11.25mm in thickness, housed within the microblasted black ceramic case.

    Consistent with the other ceramic model in the trilogy, the BR-03 Skeleton Lum Ceramic is supplied with both a black rubber strap and an ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric strap. The pin buckle is steel with a microblasted matte black PVD finish, perfectly matching the dark, non-reflective surface of the watch case and ensuring visual continuity down to the fastening mechanism.

    Across all three variations, the BR-03 Skeleton collection represents a significant step for Bell & Ross, blending their established instrumental design code with the intricate art of skeletonization. The development of the dedicated BR-CAL.328 movement with its defining X-shaped architecture underscores the brand's commitment to both technical substance and unique design language. Each piece is presented as a high-tech object, showcasing meticulous craftsmanship.

    Courtesy of Bell & Ross
    Courtesy of Bell & Ross


    Bell & Ross continues to operate under its guiding principle, "From the cockpit to the wrist." While deeply connected to aviation and catering to professionals in demanding fields, the brand also appeals to individuals seeking watches that are both highly functional and visually distinctive. Their global presence spans over 80 countries, supported by a network of retailers and 25 dedicated boutiques, alongside partnerships like those with the Patrouille de France aerobatic team and the Tara Océans Foundation.

    Regarding acquisition, the BR-03 Skeleton Black Ceramic is priced at $5,990. The limited edition BR-03 Skeleton Grey Steel (250 pieces) is available for pre-order at $5,600, with shipping expected around late April 2025. The limited edition BR-03 Skeleton Lum Ceramic (250 pieces) carries a price of $6,600 and is available exclusively through Bell & Ross's own boutiques and their official e-Boutique channels. Each model offers a distinct take on skeletonization within the iconic BR-03 framework.

    BR-03 Skeleton Black Ceramic

    Case: 41 mm wide, 10.60 mm thick. Microblasted black ceramic construction. Water resistance rated to 100 meters. Features sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating.

    Movement: Caliber BR-CAL.328 automatic mechanical movement. Provides a 54-hour power reserve. Displays hours, minutes, and seconds.

    Dial: Skeletonised design featuring a tinted transparent panel. Applique "Baignoire-style" numerals and indexes filled with white Super-LumiNova® X1 (green emission). Hour and minute hands are skeletonised and also filled with white Super-LumiNova® X1 (green emission).

    Strap: Includes both a black rubber strap and an ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric strap. Fastens with a steel pin buckle finished with a matt black PVD microblasted coating.

    Price: $5,990

    Reference Number: BR03A-BL-SKCE/SRB

    Notes: This model focuses on transparency and a minimalist aesthetic within the black ceramic case. Showcases the new skeletonized BR-CAL.328 movement with its distinct X-shaped bridge.



    BR-03 Skeleton Grey Steel

    Case: 41 mm wide, 9.65 mm thick. Satin-polished steel construction. Water resistance rated to 100 meters. Features sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating.

    Movement: Caliber BR-CAL.328 automatic mechanical movement. Provides a 54-hour power reserve. Displays hours, minutes, and seconds.

    Dial: Skeletonised design with a faceted and openworked plate. Applique "Baignoire-style" index filled with white Super-LumiNova® X1 (green emission). Rhodium-plated hour and minute hands are skeletonised and filled with white Super-LumiNova® X1 (green emission). Features a rhodium-plated seconds hand.

    Strap: Includes both a black rubber strap and an ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric strap. Fastens with a satin-finished and polished steel pin buckle, matching the case finish.

    Price: $5,600

    Reference Number: BR03A-GR-SKST/SRB

    Notes: Limited edition of 250 pieces. Available for pre-order with shipping expected in late April 2025. Designed as a metallic jewel, emphasizing light play on the faceted dial and polished/satin steel case.



    BR-03 Skeleton Lum Ceramic

    Case: 41 mm wide, 11.25 mm thick. Microblasted black ceramic construction. Water resistance rated to 100 meters. Features sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating.

    Movement: Caliber BR-CAL.328 automatic mechanical movement. Provides a 54-hour power reserve. Displays hours, minutes, and seconds.

    Dial: Skeletonised design featuring an openworked black plate with Super-LumiNova® X1 C3 outlines. Applique "Baignoire-style" index filled with Super-LumiNova® X1 C3 (green emission). Hour and minute hands are skeletonised and filled with Super-LumiNova® X1 C3 (green emission).

    Strap: Includes both a black rubber strap and an ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric strap. Fastens with a steel pin buckle finished with a matt black PVD microblasted coating.

    Price: $6,600

    Reference Number: BR03A-LM-SKCE/SRB

    Notes: Limited edition of 250 pieces, sold exclusively via Bell & Ross Boutiques and e-Boutiques. Distinguished by its extensive use of green Super-LumiNova® C3 on dial outlines, creating a bold, futuristic look in low light.
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