Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillion Openworked

Sand Gold and Skeletonization

Words by: Hourstriker Staff
March 12, 2024
In the world of luxury watches, few manufacturers possess the same level of prestige and heritage as Audemars Piguet. Founded in the Jura Valley of Switzerland in 1875 by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet, the company has built a reputation for exceptional watchmaking, characterized by meticulous attention to detail, groundbreaking design, and unwavering quality. Over the years, Audemars Piguet has introduced numerous iconic collections, each pushing the boundaries of horological creativity. However, none have redefined the luxury sports watch quite like the Royal Oak.

The Royal Oak, brainchild of the legendary watch designer Gérald Genta, was first unveiled in 1972. Genta's task was to create a timepiece that blended the elegance of a dress watch with the robustness of a sports watch. The result was a bold and audacious design that challenged the conventions of the time. The octagonal case, crafted from stainless steel, was a radical departure from the traditional round watches that dominated the market. The case was secured by eight hexagonal screws, a visible design element that spoke to the robustness of the watch. The integrated bracelet, also crafted from stainless steel, seamlessly merged with the case, creating a unified and dynamic aesthetic. The Royal Oak's unconventional design initially divided opinions, but it soon gained a loyal following. Its combination of luxury and functionality resonated with a new generation of watch enthusiasts who craved a timepiece that could keep pace with their active lifestyles.

Courtesy of Audemars Piguet


Over the past five decades, the Royal Oak has evolved into a vast and successful collection, encompassing a wide range of models with varying complications and materials. However, the core design principles established by Genta in 1972 - the octagonal case, the hexagonal screws, and the integrated bracelet - remain the cornerstone of the collection's identity. Today, the Royal Oak stands as a cultural icon, a symbol of innovation, audacity, and uncompromising quality.

The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked is the latest addition to this celebrated lineage. This timepiece embodies the spirit of the Royal Oak by combining its signature design with the exquisite artistry of a complex watchmaking complication: the flying tourbillon.

But before we delve into the intricacies of this new release, let's take a closer look at the watch in the image. The watch collector would first be struck by the iridescent quality of the case. Crafted from 18-carat sand gold, a new proprietary alloy developed by Audemars Piguet, the case appears to change color depending on thelighting conditions. In some lights, it takes on a warm, almost rose-gold hue, while in others, it gleams with a cooler, silvery sheen. This interplay of light and shadow creates a visually captivating effect, imbuing the watch with a sense of dynamism and intrigue.

Courtesy of Audemars Piguet


The octagonal case is adorned with the signature hexagonal screws, a hallmark design element of the Royal Oak collection. These screws not only serve a functional purpose, securing the caseback, but also contribute to the watch's bold and industrial aesthetic. The caseback itself is made from sapphire crystal, offering a clear view of the intricate workings of the flying tourbillon movement within.

Turning our attention to the dial, we see a masterful display of openworked construction. The dial is reduced to its essential elements, allowing us to appreciate the intricate mechanics of the movement in all their glory. The hour markers and hands are crafted from white gold and coated with luminescent material, ensuring optimal legibility in low-light conditions. The inner bezel is rendered in sand gold, creating a harmonious aesthetic connection with the case.

The integrated bracelet, also crafted from sand gold, seamlessly integrates with the case, further reinforcing the watch's cohesive and unified design. The AP folding clasp ensures a secure and comfortable fit on the wrist.

Courtesy of Audemars Piguet


The tourbillon, invented in 1795 by the legendary watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet, is one of the most complex and coveted complications in the world of horology. It was designed to counteract the effects of gravity on the accuracy of pocket watches. These timepieces were typically worn in a vertical position, which led to errors in timekeeping as gravity pulled on the watch's regulating organ (the balance wheel and balance spring).

The tourbillon overcomes this challenge through ingenious engineering. The balance wheel, balance spring, and escapement are housed within a rotating cage that makes a full 360-degree rotation, usually once per minute. This continuous rotation averages out any positional errors caused by gravity, ensuring greater accuracy in timekeeping.

While a traditional tourbillon is supported by bridges on both the top and bottom, the flying tourbillon is secured only at the bottom. This eliminates the top bridge, creating the illusion that the cage and its components are literally floating in mid-air. The flying tourbillon is a testament to the expertise of the watchmaker – it requires greater skill and precision to construct, but it offers a captivating visual spectacle.

Courtesy of Audemars Piguet


The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked showcases the flying tourbillon in all its mechanical splendor. The movement, Calibre 2972, is visible from both the dial and the caseback. Here's where the openworked construction truly shines. With much of the movement pared down, it offers an unobstructed view of the tourbillon cage rotating hypnotically at the six o'clock position.

The Calibre 2972 is not only a work of technical sophistication but also a canvas for artistic expression. The bridges and mainplate feature intricate decorations, executed with meticulous care. The contrasting sandblasted finish of the mainplate and the polished finish of the bridges create a captivating interplay of textures. Notice how the sand-gold hue of some components echoes the warmth of the case material, while the rhodium-toned elements provide a striking counterpoint.

The meticulous finishing throughout the movement highlights the unwavering commitment to quality that is an Audemars Piguet hallmark. It's more than just mechanical excellence; it's the artistry and craftsmanship imbued in every detail that elevate this timepiece to another level.

The Calibre 2972 is an automatic, or self-winding mechanical movement. This means it doesn't require manual winding like traditional mechanical watches did. Instead, it harnesses the natural movements of the wearer's wrist to power itself. The watch houses an oscillating weight, typically made from a heavy metal like gold or platinum, that rotates with your motion. This rotation winds the mainspring, which stores the energy needed to run the watch.

Courtesy of Audemars Piguet


With a power reserve of 65 hours, the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked keeps ticking even when you take it off your wrist for a day or two. This blend of convenience and mechanical ingenuity is a testament to the enduring appeal of complex mechanical timepieces in an era of highly accurate quartz watches.

Beyond its technical and aesthetic brilliance, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked is a timepiece designed to be worn and experienced. The 41mm diameter is a bold yet versatile size, lending wrist presence without feeling overly bulky. The integrated bracelet, with its expertly sculpted links, drapes smoothly around the wrist for exceptional comfort. The AP folding clasp adds a final touch of refinement and security.
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