Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 150th Anniversary

Audemars Piguet has consistently pushed the boundaries of watchmaking since its inception. The Royal Oak collection, a brainchild of the legendary Gerald Genta, stands as a testament to this pursuit, revolutionizing the industry with its bold design and unparalleled mechanics. In honor of their 150th anniversary, Audemars Piguet introduces a remarkable timepiece that melds its rich heritage with cutting-edge materials: the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked "150th Anniversary" watch.



This particular timepiece serves as a grand finale, a final tribute to the Calibre 5135, the very movement that has been the heart of Audemars Piguet's 41mm openworked self-winding perpetual calendar wristwatches for close to a decade. This isn't just a new watch; it's a commemoration of a legacy, a bridge between the time-honored traditions of the past and the relentless innovation of the future. The watch subtly whispers the end of an era of the historic movement.



The exterior of this Royal Oak is an exercise in material harmony. The 41mm case is a blend of titanium and Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG). BMG, a palladium-based alloy developed by Audemars Piguet, graces the bezel and caseback frame. This material, known for its exceptional resistance to wear and corrosion, possesses a glassy structure that provides a unique luster. The polished BMG beautifully contrasts with the lightweight, satin-brushed titanium used for the case middle and bracelet links. This combination not only offers visual appeal but also contributes to the watch's ergonomics, making it comfortable on the wrist.



The dial, or rather the lack thereof, is a window into the mechanical soul of the watch. A sapphire crystal reveals the intricate openworked Calibre 5135, allowing the wearer to admire the meticulous finishing and complex arrangement of its 374 components. The design cues are a conscious nod to a historical openworked perpetual calendar pocket watch (reference 25729) from the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet. Blue surrounds the subdials, a color echoed on the inner bezel and the 18-carat white gold "bathtub" hands, which are filled with luminescent material for low-light visibility. The hour markers, also in 18-carat white gold, are round, subtly echoing the brilliant-cut diamonds on the historical pocket watch that inspired this design. A carefully chosen white typeface for the calendar indications provides a vintage aesthetic, enhancing the watch's overall character.



The perpetual calendar complication is a marvel of mechanical engineering. It accurately displays the day, date, astronomical moon, month, and leap year, automatically accounting for the varying lengths of months. The moon phase indication at 6 o'clock is particularly striking. A disc, adorned with a photorealistic depiction of the Moon based on NASA imagery, showcases the lunar cycle. Interestingly, the watch features two moons to accommodate the different perspectives of observers in the Northern and Southern Hemispheres, adding a subtle layer of complexity and accuracy. This perpetual calendar function, assuming the watch is kept wound, won't require manual adjustment until the year 2100, a testament to the precision and longevity of Audemars Piguet's movements.



The integrated bracelet continues the theme of material juxtaposition. Titanium links are connected by BMG studs, and the bracelet fastens with a three-blade titanium folding clasp, ensuring a secure and comfortable fit. The combination of materials provides both durability and a distinct visual appeal, further enhancing the overall design language of the watch.



Turning the watch over, one can observe more details that are only meant for its owner. The caseback includes special engravings created specifically for the 150th-anniversary celebration. The "150" logo and the inscription "1 of 150 pieces" denote the watch's limited-edition status. The "Audemars Piguet" signature on the dial side of the moon phase indicator is done tastefully. These details are subtle reminders of the watch's special significance, further enhancing its value for both a user and a watch enthusiasts.



The Calibre 5135, a self-winding movement, is the heart of this timepiece. It boasts a 40-hour power reserve and operates at a frequency of 2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations per hour). The movement's 38 jewels ensure smooth operation and reduce friction, contributing to its longevity and accuracy. The total diameter of the movement is 29mm, with a thickness of just 4.5mm, a remarkable feat of engineering considering the complexity of the perpetual calendar complication.



The movement's specifications are impressive. It features a perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year indication, hours, and minutes. This comprehensive suite of functions is achieved through an intricate interplay of gears, levers, and springs, all meticulously assembled and finished by Audemars Piguet's master watchmakers.



Audemars Piguet offers a two-year warranty on this watch, which covers manufacturing defects. Additionally, watches purchased through their authorized network since January 1st, 2017, are eligible for a five-year warranty, providing owners with peace of mind and demonstrating the brand's confidence in the quality of their timepieces.



The historical context of Calibre 5135 is important to understand its significance. It traces its lineage back to Calibre 2120/2800, introduced in the 1970s during the quartz crisis. This earlier movement was groundbreaking for its time, being the thinnest self-winding perpetual calendar wristwatch available. Its success helped Audemars Piguet navigate a challenging period and paved the way for future innovations. Calibre 5135, launched in 2015, built upon this legacy, adapting the perpetual calendar to a larger 41mm case while retaining a slim profile.



The development of Calibre 2120/2800 was a pivotal moment in Audemars Piguet's history. Conceived in secrecy by three watchmakers, it defied the prevailing trend towards quartz movements and reaffirmed the brand's commitment to mechanical watchmaking. This movement not only revitalized the perpetual calendar complication but also spurred the development of other complications, including the openworked chronograph, the self-winding tourbillon, the minute repeater, and the Grande Complication.



The introduction of Calibre 5135 in the Royal Oak collection marked a renewed interest in perpetual calendars, a complication that had seen a decline in popularity. The 2017 launch of a black ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar (ref. 26579CE) was particularly significant, laying the groundwork for numerous creative iterations in the perpetual calendar line.



The openworked version of Calibre 5135, first seen in 2019, showcased the movement's intricate decorations from both the front and back of the watch. This allowed collectors to appreciate the artistry and craftsmanship that goes into each Audemars Piguet timepiece. The movement has since been featured in various models, including diamond-set versions and collaborations, demonstrating its versatility and enduring appeal.



Audemars Piguet's use of BMG in this limited edition is a testament to their ongoing commitment to material innovation. The brand's experimentation with materials, shapes, and techniques has consistently set them apart in the world of haute horlogerie. The combination of BMG and titanium not only enhances the watch's aesthetics but also improves its wearability and durability.



The design elements inspired by the historical pocket watch add a layer of depth and storytelling to this timepiece. By drawing inspiration from their own archives, Audemars Piguet connects the past with the present, creating a watch that is both contemporary and deeply rooted in tradition. The subtle nods to the past, such as the blue subdial surrounds and the round hour markers, demonstrate a respect for the brand's heritage.



The limited edition of 150 pieces for the 150th celebration is a statement of exclusivity and desirability. This limited production run ensures that the watch will remain a coveted item for collectors, further adding to its unique appeal. It has been created to be an instant classic for watch lovers. Audemars Piguet has not made the official price known for this watch and only labels it as "Price on Request".



Case: 41mm. Titanium case, BMG bezel and caseback frame. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback. Screw-locked titanium crown. Thickness: 9.9mm. Water resistant to 20m.

Movement: Selfwinding Calibre 5135. Total diameter: 29mm (12lignes). Total thickness: 4.5mm. 374 parts. 38 jewels. 40-hour power reserve. Frequency: 2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations/hour). Perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year indication, hours and minutes.

Dial: Sapphire dial. Blue brass inner bezel. Round hour-markers. Blue bathtub hour and minute hands in 18-carat white gold with luminescent material.

Strap: Titanium bracelet links. BMG studs. Three-blade titanium folding clasp.

Price: Price on Request.

Reference Number: 26585XT.OO.1220XT.01

Notes: Limited edition of 150 pieces. Last watch to feature Calibre 5135. Features special 150th-anniversary design codes.