Audemars Piguet Crown Controlled Perpetual Calendar

Audemars Piguet, a name synonymous with haute horlogerie, has a storied history dating back to 1875. Founded in the Vallée de Joux, the heart of Swiss watchmaking, by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet, the company has consistently pushed the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking. From its earliest days, Audemars Piguet focused on complex mechanisms, particularly calendar complications. This dedication to mastering intricate movements laid the groundwork for their latest innovation: a perpetual calendar controlled entirely by the crown. Perpetual calendars, themselves, represent a pinnacle of watchmaking achievement. They are, in essence, miniature mechanical computers, meticulously engineered to account for the varying lengths of months and even leap years, displaying the correct date without manual adjustment for decades. Audemars Piguet has a rich legacy in crafting these intricate timepieces, and their expertise is brought to the forefront in these new releases.

These three new 41mm self-winding perpetual calendar watches demonstrate a commitment to simplifying user interaction without compromising the complexity of the mechanism. The newly developed Calibre 7138 is the heart of these watches. This movement is a testament to Audemars Piguet's forward-thinking approach. While traditional perpetual calendars often require multiple pushers or correctors on the case to adjust the various calendar functions, Calibre 7138 consolidates all adjustments to the crown. This "all-in-one" crown control not only streamlines the watch's exterior but also enhances the user experience, making setting the calendar more intuitive and less prone to accidental misadjustment. This advancement builds upon patented innovations from 2018, integrating all perpetual calendar functions into a single layer within the movement. The end-of-month cam is ingeniously integrated with the date wheel, and the month cam is combined with the month wheel. This compact design allows the movement to maintain a slim profile of just 4.1mm, contributing to the overall comfort and wearability of the watches.



The first of the three watches, part of the Code 11.59 collection, presents a sophisticated aesthetic. Its 41mm case, crafted from 18-carat white gold, frames a smoked blue embossed dial. The dial features a subtle texture, adding depth and visual interest. The matching inner bezel and tone-on-tone subdials create a harmonious look, punctuated by 18-carat white gold hour markers and hands. These hands are coated with luminescent material, ensuring legibility in low-light conditions. The integration of the perpetual calendar functions is expertly executed. The day is displayed at 9 o'clock, the date at 12 o'clock, and the month at 3 o'clock. This layout follows the European date format, enhancing the watch's clean and logical presentation. A notable detail is the patented date disc at 12 o'clock, which features a progressive step that adjusts to the width of the digits, improving readability. Additionally, a 24-hour indicator is incorporated into the day subdial at 9 o'clock, mirroring the leap-year indication at 3 o'clock, creating visual balance. The Code 11.59 model is paired with a blue textured rubber-coated strap, lined with calfskin for comfort. This strap is secured with an 18-carat white gold folding clasp, completing the watch's refined appearance.

The second model introduces the Calibre 7138 to the iconic Royal Oak collection. This version, housed in a 41mm stainless steel case, offers a sportier character. The blue "Grande Tapisserie" dial is a hallmark of the Royal Oak, providing a distinctive textured backdrop for the perpetual calendar display. The tone-on-tone subdials and matching inner bezel maintain a cohesive design, while 18-carat white gold hour markers and hands, filled with luminescent material, ensure readability. The stainless steel case, with its signature octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet, gives this Royal Oak a robust yet design. The 9.5mm thickness helps make the watch versatile. The integrated stainless steel bracelet, a defining feature of the Royal Oak, is meticulously finished and fitted with an AP folding clasp. This combination of steel and the blue "Grande Tapisserie" dial creates a visually striking and wearable timepiece.



The third watch in this series showcases the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in a new and exclusive material: 18-carat sand gold. This unique gold alloy, developed by Audemars Piguet, offers a warm, subtle hue that distinguishes it from traditional yellow or rose gold. The 41mm sand gold case is complemented by a matching sand gold-toned "Grande Tapisserie" dial. The tone-on-tone subdials feature black indicators, providing a subtle contrast, while 18-carat white gold hour markers and hands, filled with luminescent material, complete the design. The integrated bracelet is also crafted entirely from 18-carat sand gold, creating a monochromatic that highlights the unique color and texture of the metal. The watch maintains the same 9.5mm thickness and overall design as the other models, including water resistance and sapphire case back.

Calibre 7138, visible through the sapphire caseback of all three models, is a beautifully decorated movement. It showcases traditional haute horlogerie finishing techniques, including Côtes de Genève, satin-brushing, circular graining, and snailing. The chamfered edges of the bridges and components reflect light beautifully, adding to the movement's visual appeal. Beyond its aesthetic qualities, Calibre 7138 boasts a 55-hour power reserve and operates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour). Its 423 components, including 41 jewels, work in perfect harmony to provide accurate and reliable timekeeping, along with the intricate perpetual calendar functions.

The design of the dial on all three models prioritizes legibility. The European format for the calendar display, with day, date, and month arranged logically, is easy to read at a glance. The inclusion of a 24-hour indicator and leap-year indicator, symmetrically positioned on the dial, adds to the watch's functionality without cluttering the design. The patented date disc, with its progressive step, further demonstrates Audemars Piguet's attention to detail, ensuring that even the smallest elements contribute to an enhanced user experience.



The decision to offer these new perpetual calendar models in both the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak collections reflects Audemars Piguet's understanding of its diverse clientele. The Code 11.59, with its contemporary design and subtle details, appeals to those seeking a more understated. The Royal Oak, an icon of watchmaking, offers a sportier and more recognizable aesthetic, available in both stainless steel and the unique sand gold. The cases, bracelets, and movements all function the same, but the aesthetics are all different.

The water resistance varies slightly between the models. The Code 11.59 model is water-resistant to 30 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear and light splashes. The Royal Oak models, both stainless steel and sand gold, offer a higher water resistance of 50 meters, providing greater protection against accidental water exposure. While not designed for deep-sea diving, this level of water resistance ensures that the watches can withstand the rigors of daily life. These measurements are similar to other watches in both the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak collections, so the new Calibre 7138 doesn't change the functionality of the watch's water resistance.

Audemars Piguet's approach to these new perpetual calendars represents a significant step forward in the evolution of this complex complication. By focusing on ergonomics and user experience, they have created watches that are not only technically impressive but also practical and enjoyable to use. The "all-in-one" crown control simplifies the setting process, eliminating the need for specialized tools and reducing the risk of damage. This user-friendly design, combined with the sophisticated aesthetics of both the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak collections, makes these watches appealing to a wide range of watch enthusiasts.

The integration of Calibre 7138 into both the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak lines demonstrates Audemars Piguet's commitment to innovation across its entire range. The movement's slim profile and efficient design allow it to be incorporated seamlessly into different case styles, showcasing its versatility. This adaptability is a key factor in ensuring that the new perpetual calendar complication can be enjoyed by a broader audience, regardless of their preferred watch design. The patented designs are what helps this movement stand out in the collection.



The choice of materials also plays a crucial role in the appeal of these watches. The Code 11.59's 18-carat white gold case and smoked blue dial offer a refined and contemporary look. The Royal Oak's stainless steel option provides a classic and sporty aesthetic, while the sand gold version introduces a new and exclusive material to the collection. This variety of materials and finishes allows customers to choose a watch that best reflects their individual style and preferences.

The straps and bracelets are carefully chosen to complement each model. The Code 11.59's textured rubber-coated strap adds a modern touch, while the integrated bracelets of the Royal Oak models are iconic and instantly recognizable. The attention to detail extends to the clasps, with the AP folding clasp providing both security and ease of use. The comfort factor is never something Audemars Piguet takes lightly. The bracelets and clasps are often designed specifically for each collection for functionality and comfort.

From a technical standpoint, Calibre 7138 is a marvel of micro-engineering. Its 423 components, meticulously assembled and finished, work together seamlessly to track the complexities of the calendar. The 55-hour power reserve ensures that the watch will continue to run accurately even if not worn for a couple of days. The 4 Hz frequency provides a smooth sweep of the seconds hand and contributes to the watch's overall precision.



The use of sapphire crystal for both the front and back of the watches provides scratch resistance and allows for an unobstructed view of the movement. The double-curved sapphire crystal on the Code 11.59 model adds a unique visual effect, enhancing the depth and dimensionality of the dial. The glare-proofed treatment on both the front and back crystals ensures optimal readability in various lighting conditions.

The pricing for these new Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar watches reflects their positioning as high-end luxury timepieces. The Code 11.59 in white gold (26494BC.OO.D350KB.01) and the Royal Oak in stainless steel (26674ST.OO.1320ST.01) are both priced at $109,300. The Royal Oak in sand gold (26674SG.OO.1320SG.01) is priced at CHF 130,000, reflecting the exclusivity of the material. Given the complexity of the movement and the craftsmanship involved, these watches are likely to be produced in limited quantities, adding to their desirability among collectors.

Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar

Case: 41mm, 18-carat white gold. Double curved glareproofed sapphire crystal and glareproofed sapphire caseback. Water resistant to 30m. Thickness 10.6mm.

Movement: Calibre 7138, self-winding. Perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours, and minutes. 41 jewels, 423 parts. Power reserve 55h. Frequency 4hz 28800 vph. Total diameter 29.6mm, thickness 4.1mm.

Dial: Smoked blue embossed dial. Matching inner bezel and tone-on-tone subdials. 18-carat white gold hour-markers and hands with luminescent material.

Strap: Blue textured rubber-coated strap with calfskin lining. 18-carat white gold three-blade AP folding clasp.

Price: $109,300

Reference Number: 26494BC.OO.D350KB.01

Notes: Features new Calibre 7138 with all functions adjusted via the crown. Three patented mechanisms.



Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Stainless Steel

Case: 41mm, stainless steel. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback. Water resistant to 50m. Thickness 9.5mm.

Movement: Calibre 7138, self-winding. Perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours, and minutes. 41 jewels, 423 parts. Power reserve 55h. Frequency 4hz 28800 vph. Total diameter 29.6mm, thickness 4.1mm.

Dial: Blue "Grande Tapisserie" dial. Tone-on-tone subdials and matching inner bezel. 18-carat white gold hour-markers and hands with luminescent material.

Strap: Integrated stainless steel bracelet. AP folding clasp.

Price: $109,300

Reference Number: 26674ST.OO.1320ST.01

Notes: First Royal Oak model to feature Calibre 7138. All functions adjusted via the crown.



Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Sand Gold

Case: 41mm, 18-carat sand gold. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback. Water resistant to 50m. Thickness 9.5mm.

Movement: Calibre 7138, self-winding. Perpetual calendar with week indication, day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours, and minutes. 41 jewels, 423 parts. Power reserve 55h. Frequency 4hz 28800 vph. Total diameter 29.6mm, thickness 4.1mm.

Dial: Sand gold-toned "Grande Tapisserie" dial. Matching inner bezel and tone-on-tone subdials with black indicators. 18-carat white gold hour-markers and hands with luminescent material.

Strap: Integrated 18-carat sand-gold bracelet. AP folding clasp.

Price: CHF 130,000

Reference Number: 26674SG.OO.1320SG.01

Notes: Features new Calibre 7138. Case and bracelet made from 18-carat sand gold. All functions adjusted via the crown.