Audemars Piguet has introduced two new stainless steel additions to its Code 11.59 collection. These "Shades of Grey" timepieces continue the evolution of the Code 11.59 line, demonstrating the brand's commitment to blending traditional watchmaking with contemporary design, and showcasing expertise in stainless steel.
Audemars Piguet's legacy dates back to 1875, nestled in Le Brassus, within the Vallée de Joux, a region renowned for its watchmaking heritage. The company has remained under the stewardship of its founding families, a testament to its enduring commitment to quality and innovation. Over generations, Audemars Piguet's artisans have consistently pushed the boundaries of their craft, developing new skills and techniques that have resulted in groundbreaking timepieces. This dedication to forward-thinking design, while honoring ancestral savoir-faire, is palpable in the Code 11.59 collection.
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The Code 11.59 by
Audemars Piguet collection, first introduced, represented a significant step for the brand, a bold departure from some of their more established designs. This was a calculated evolution, a demonstration that Audemars Piguet was unafraid to embrace the new while holding onto the bedrock principles that made them a horological giant. This new series of watches builds on the initial models and continues the design and technical achievements.
The two new models present a cohesive aesthetic, focusing on a harmonious interplay of stainless steel and a unique shade of grey, accented by touches of "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50". This color combination is subtle yet impactful, highlighting the intricate details of the watches without being overly ostentatious. The first model is a Selfwinding, displaying hours, minutes, seconds, and date. The second adds the complexity of a Flyback Chronograph, building on the functionality while maintaining the refined aesthetic.
A core design element of the Code 11.59 is its multifaceted case. These new models, crafted entirely in stainless steel, display the Manufacture's signature finishing technique: a meticulous alternation of polished and satin-brushed surfaces. This creates a dynamic play of light across the watch, emphasizing its complex architecture. This isn't simply a watch case; it's a meticulously sculpted form that reveals different facets and nuances depending on the viewing angle.
The dials of both watches present a captivating visual texture. Working in collaboration with Swiss guilloché artisan Yann von Kaenel, Audemars Piguet's design teams developed a unique embossed pattern. The base dies, meticulously engraved by hand, feature concentric circles that evoke the gentle ripples on a water's surface. These circles are punctuated by hundreds of tiny holes, further enhancing the interplay of light and shadow. The dials are then treated with a galvanic process to preserve and accentuate these delicate contours, resulting in a dial that is both visually dynamic and technically impressive.
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On the Chronograph model, the counters are rendered in "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50" using a PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) process. These blue counters are subtly framed by a rhodium galvanic thread, a small detail that adds a touch of refinement. The overall effect is one of understated contrast, where the blue elements provide a visual anchor against the grey backdrop.
The double-curved sapphire crystal, a signature element of the Code 11.59 collection, further enhances the dial's depth and detail. This crystal is not merely a protective element; it's an integral part of the watch's aesthetic, designed to interact with the dial and create a unique visual experience.
Applied hour-markers and hands, crafted from 18-carat white gold, are elongated and facetted, contributing to the watch's modern feel. These elements are filled with luminescent material, ensuring optimal readability in low-light conditions. This practical consideration underscores Audemars Piguet's commitment to functionality alongside aesthetics.
Both watches are fitted with a grey textured rubber strap, lined with calfskin. This choice of material adds a contemporary touch, contrasting with the traditional craftsmanship of the case and movement. The texture of the rubber provides a tactile element, while the calfskin lining ensures comfort against the skin. A stainless steel pin buckle completes the strap, maintaining the overall design coherence.
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The lugs of the Code 11.59 are a defining feature, a testament to the complexity of the case construction. These stylized lugs are not simply attached to the case; the upper part is seamlessly soldered to the ultra-thin bezel, while the lower part rests against the caseback. This design requires a complex and meticulous process, involving brazing solder and laser soldering. The manual operations are further completed with hand-finishing, using a file to remove imperfections and bring out the brilliance of the lug.
The transition to stainless steel presented a unique challenge for Audemars Piguet. While the Manufacture has extensive experience with precious metals, working with stainless steel required adapting existing processes and developing new techniques. A dedicated team spent a year perfecting the parameters for these stainless steel components, ensuring they met Audemars Piguet's stringent quality standards. This included rigorous testing for resistance, similar to that performed on precious metal components.
The Selfwinding model is powered by Calibre 4302, a latest-generation movement developed by Audemars Piguet. This movement displays hours, minutes, seconds, and a date indication. The Chronograph model features Calibre 4401, an integrated selfwinding chronograph with a column wheel and flyback function. Both movements incorporate a patented mechanism that enhances stability and precision during setting. Calibre 4401 also includes a vertical gear system to prevent hand jumps when the chronograph is activated or stopped.
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Both Calibre 4302 and Calibre 4401 boast a generous 32mm diameter, contributing to their enhanced chronometry. They also feature a 70-hour power reserve. These movements are not just functional; they are designed for ease of use and reliability, reflecting the demands of a contemporary lifestyle.
Turning the watches over reveals a sapphire caseback, offering a view of the meticulously decorated movements. The 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight, a signature of the Code 11.59 collection, is immediately visible. The movement components themselves are adorned with Haute Horlogerie decorations, including polished angles, vertical satin-brushing, Côtes de Genève, circular graining, and chamfering. These details, visible through the caseback, are a testament to the Manufacture's commitment to excellence, even in areas not immediately visible to the wearer.
The Selfwinding (15210ST.OO.A009KB.01) model presents a clean and elegant display of time, with hours, minutes, center seconds, and a date window. The stainless steel case, with a thickness of 10.7 mm, houses the grey embossed dial. The blue inner bezel provides a subtle contrast, framing the dial and creating a sense of depth.
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The Selfwinding Chronograph (26393ST.OO.A009KB.01) adds the functionality of a flyback chronograph to the elegant design. The stainless steel case, slightly thicker at 12.6 mm, accommodates the more complex Calibre 4401 movement. The grey dial features grey counters with blue external zones at 9 and 3 o'clock, and a blue counter at 6 o'clock. The blue inner bezel echoes the color accents on the counters, creating a cohesive aesthetic.
The Selfwinding model (15210ST.OO.A009KB.01) is priced at $26,100, while the Selfwinding Chronograph (26393ST.OO.A009KB.01) is priced at $36,000. Both watches are available through Audemars Piguet boutiques, and are available starting February 2025. The watches represent a blend of technical sophistication, meticulous craftsmanship, and contemporary design. They are a continuation of Audemars Piguet's legacy of innovation, showcasing the brand's expertise in stainless steel and its commitment to pushing the boundaries of horological design.
Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding / 41 MMCase: Stainless steel. Double-curved glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire caseback. Water resistant to 30 m. Case thickness: 10.7 mm.
Movement: Selfwinding Calibre 4302. Total diameter 32 mm (14 lignes). Total thickness 4.9 mm. 257 parts. 32 jewels. Minimum power reserve guaranteed 70 h. Frequency of balance wheel 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour).
Dial: Grey, embossed with ripple-like pattern. Applied hour-markers and hands in 18-carat white gold with luminescent material. Blue inner bezel.
Strap: Grey textured rubber. Calfskin lining. Stainless steel pin buckle.
Price: $26,100
Reference Number: 15210ST.OO.A009KB.01
Notes: Features a new shade of grey on the dial. The dial was created in collaboration with Swiss guilloché artisan Yann von Kaenel.
Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph / 41 MMCase: Stainless steel. Double-curved glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire caseback. Water resistant to 30 m. Case thickness: 12.6 mm.
Movement: Selfwinding Calibre 4401. Total diameter 32 mm (14 lignes). Total thickness 6.8 mm. 381 parts. 40 jewels. Minimum power reserve guaranteed 70 h. Frequency of balance wheel 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour). Flyback chronograph function.
Dial: Grey, embossed with ripple-like pattern. Grey counters with blue external zone at 9 and 3 o’clock. Blue counter at 6 o’clock. Applied hour-markers and hands in 18-carat white gold filled with luminescent material. Blue inner bezel.
Strap: Grey textured rubber. Calfskin lining. Stainless steel pin buckle.
Price: $36,000
Reference Number: 26393ST.OO.A009KB.01
Notes: Features an integrated chronograph with a column wheel and flyback function. The counters are treated in "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50" color obtained using PVD.