The watch world is a fascinating ecosystem, a blend of tradition, meticulous craftsmanship, and relentless innovation. Within this world, smaller independent brands often carve out their niche by offering something truly unique, something that speaks to a specific collector's soul. Atelier Wen, a relatively young brand, has been making waves with its dedication to showcasing the often-overlooked artistry of Chinese watchmaking. Their latest release, the Perception Mu, is a testament to their commitment to both cultural heritage and horological excellence.
Atelier Wen, meaning "culture workshop," was born from the shared passion of two French friends, Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron. United by their love for Chinese culture and a desire to challenge the prevailing perception of Chinese watchmaking, they embarked on a journey to create timepieces that blend traditional Chinese aesthetics with modern design and high-quality craftsmanship. Their debut collection, the Porcelain Odyssey, featured dials made from delicate porcelain, a material deeply ingrained in Chinese history. With the Perception collection,
Atelier Wen shifted focus to another facet of Chinese heritage: architecture.
Courtesy of Atelier Wen
The Perception line draws inspiration from the intricate geometries and subtle details found in traditional Chinese architecture. The sloping rooftops of ancient palaces are echoed in the gentle curves of the case, while the hexagonal windows of pagodas find their counterpart in the unique case shape. Even the dial construction pays homage to the ancient Chinese method of "sun mao," where wooden beams are joined through friction and imbrication, eliminating the need for nails or glue.
But the Perception Mu is more than just a continuation of the line's architectural inspiration; it's a celebration of community and a bold step into new territory. As the inaugural model in Atelier Wen's Millésime series, the Mu represents a yearly, limited-edition release driven by community feedback and a desire to experiment with unconventional designs. This year, that experimentation takes the form of a captivating purple guilloché dial, a direct response to the enthusiastic requests from Atelier Wen's dedicated fanbase.
The dial itself is a work of art, meticulously hand-turned by Master Cheng Yucai, the sole guilloché master craftsman in China. The intricate "écaille de poisson" (fish scale) pattern shimmers with an almost mesmerizing depth, its rich purple hue shifting between a vibrant ultraviolet and a deep, regal shade depending on the light. This dynamic color play is the result of extensive experimentation with plating techniques, a testament to Atelier Wen's dedication to achieving the perfect shade.
Courtesy of Atelier Wen
Encasing this stunning dial is a grade 5 titanium case, a first for Atelier Wen outside of their limited collaborations. Titanium is renowned for its strength, lightness, and hypoallergenic properties, making it an ideal choice for a watch designed for everyday wear. The case itself is a study in contrasts, with brushed surfaces playing off against polished accents to create a dynamic interplay of light and shadow. The 40mm diameter, combined with a relatively short lug-to-lug distance of 47mm, ensures the watch wears comfortably on a wide range of wrist sizes.
The Perception Mu is not just a pretty face; it's powered by a customized, high-beat automatic movement, the Peacock SL1588A. This ultra-thin movement, sourced from the Liaoning Peacock Watch Company, has been meticulously decorated with circular côtes de Genève and features a tungsten rotor plated in a matching purple rhodium. The movement has also been adjusted in 5 positions and for temperature fluctuations, ensuring accurate timekeeping.
Atelier Wen's commitment to quality extends beyond the movement to every aspect of the watch. The hands, for example, are rhodium-plated and filled with Super-LumiNova for excellent legibility in low-light conditions. The double-domed sapphire crystal boasts ten layers of anti-reflective coating, minimizing glare and allowing the beauty of the dial to shine through. Even the bracelet, crafted from the same grade 5 titanium as the case, has been meticulously finished with chamfered edges and a tapering design for optimal comfort.
The Perception Mu is a limited-edition release, available for pre-order until October 21st, 2024. It comes presented in a luxurious wooden box with a matte purple lacquer finish, accompanied by a travel pouch, a microfiber polishing cloth, and a screwdriver for bracelet adjustments. But perhaps the most intriguing aspect of this release is the "Purple and Tantalum" raffle. Three lucky purchasers of the Mu will receive a special surprise: a prototype version of the watch crafted from tantalum, a rare and exceptionally dense metal. This unexpected twist adds an element of excitement and exclusivity to an already compelling timepiece.
Courtesy of Atelier Wen
One of the first things you'll notice about the Perception Mu is its exceptional build quality. The grade 5 titanium case, measuring 40mm in diameter and a slender 9.4mm in thickness, feels substantial yet incredibly light on the wrist. This is a watch you can wear all day, every day, without feeling weighed down. The contrasting brushed and polished surfaces add a sense of visual depth and sophistication, while the screw-down crown ensures water resistance to a respectable 100 meters.
But the real star of the show, as we mentioned earlier, is the dial. That mesmerizing purple guilloché pattern, hand-turned by Master Cheng Yucai, is simply captivating. The way the light plays off the intricate "écaille de poisson" design, creating a dynamic interplay of colors, is truly remarkable. It's a testament to the skill and artistry of Master Cheng, one of the few remaining guilloché masters in the world.
The dial's construction is also noteworthy. Inspired by the ancient Chinese architectural principle of "sun mao," it features a four-layered design that adds depth and complexity. The chapter ring, printed with Super-LumiNova for enhanced legibility in low-light conditions, features a traditional Chinese "huiwen" pattern, adding a subtle cultural touch. The rhodium-plated indices, applied with precision, further enhance the dial's refined aesthetic.
The hands of the Perception Mu are equally impressive. Rhodium-plated and filled with Super-LumiNova, they are both beautiful and functional. The leaf-shaped design is a classic touch, while the hand-bent minutes and seconds hands add a subtle artisanal flair. These details, while seemingly small, speak volumes about Atelier Wen's commitment to quality and craftsmanship.
Courtesy of Atelier Wen
Protecting this intricate dial is a double-domed sapphire crystal with ten layers of anti-reflective coating. This high-quality crystal ensures exceptional clarity and minimizes glare, allowing you to fully appreciate the beauty of the dial beneath. It's a subtle but important detail that elevates the overall wearing experience.
Turning the watch over, you'll find a solid caseback adorned with a stylized depiction of a stone lion, a traditional Chinese motif often found guarding important buildings and monuments. This subtle nod to Chinese culture adds another layer of meaning to the Perception Mu, further reinforcing Atelier Wen's commitment to showcasing their heritage.
Inside the case beats the heart of the watch: a customized Peacock SL1588A automatic movement. This ultra-thin movement, measuring just 3.4mm in thickness, has been extensively modified for Atelier Wen. The power reserve has been extended to 41 hours, and the date complication has been removed, resulting in a cleaner, more symmetrical dial.
The movement itself is beautifully decorated with circular côtes de Genève and features a tungsten rotor plated in a matching purple rhodium. The attention to detail is impressive, with polished jewel and screw sinks and flame-blued screws adding a touch of refinement. The movement has also been rigorously tested and adjusted in 5 positions and for temperature fluctuations, ensuring accurate timekeeping.
Completing the Perception Mu is a grade 5 titanium bracelet that perfectly complements the case. The bracelet tapers from 22mm at the case to 18mm at the clasp, providing a comfortable and balanced fit on the wrist. The individual links are chamfered, adding a touch of visual interest and further enhancing the watch's overall refinement.
Courtesy of Atelier Wen
The bracelet also features Atelier Wen's proprietary, patent-pending on-the-fly micro-adjustment system, allowing you to fine-tune the fit for optimal comfort. The clasp is a telescopic deployant blade system, ensuring a secure and comfortable closure. Quick-release spring bars make it easy to swap the bracelet for a different strap, should you desire a change of pace.
The Perception Mu is priced at $3,588 USD, a remarkable value considering the level of craftsmanship, attention to detail, and the use of high-quality materials. It's a watch that punches well above its weight class, offering a level of refinement and sophistication typically found in much more expensive timepieces.