Arnold & Son HM Steel Amber

Arnold & Son, a name synonymous with horological innovation and historical significance, introduces a captivating new timepiece to its esteemed collection: the HM Steel Amber. This watch, a limited edition of only 38 pieces, veers from typical horological materials and embraces the unique allure of Baltic amber.



The origins of Arnold & Son trace back to the golden age of British watchmaking. John Arnold, the founder, was a renowned innovator in the 18th century, celebrated for his contributions to marine chronometry. His precise timekeeping instruments were crucial for navigation at sea, enabling sailors to accurately determine longitude. This legacy of precision and exploration is deeply ingrained in the brand's DNA, continually pushing them to explore unconventional materials and designs.



The HM Steel Amber represents a bold step for Arnold & Son. The brand, known for its sophisticated complications and traditional aesthetics, has chosen a material largely unexplored in the realm of high-end watchmaking. Baltic amber, formed over millions of years from the fossilized resin of ancient conifers, brings a warmth and organic texture to the watch face. This fossil, often found along the shores of the Baltic Sea, is cherished for its natural beauty, its inclusions, and the captivating play of light within its depths.



The selection process for the amber used in the HM Steel Amber was undoubtedly meticulous. Arnold & Son sourced a substantial 1.6-kilogram block of amber, estimated to be over 30 million years old. This underscores the considerable effort and risk involved, as the quality and usability of the amber within a nodule can only be ascertained after it's cut. It's akin to unveiling a hidden treasure, with no guarantee of what lies beneath the surface. From this large block, cylinders were carefully extracted, cut, and then individually inspected. Only sections exhibiting the required solidity and visual appeal, devoid of imperfections and fragility, were deemed suitable for crafting the dials.



The dial of the HM Steel Amber is the undeniable focal point of the watch. The amber takes center stage, filling almost the entire expanse, with a minimalist design that allows the material's natural beauty to shine. Its appearance is organic and dynamic. No two dials are identical, each piece of amber exhibiting a unique pattern of streaks and internal variations. The color, a warm, pale yellow at its core, shifts with exposure to air and light, potentially developing a reddish-brown patina over time. This subtle evolution adds another layer of character, making the watch a living piece of art. The only interruption on this organic canvas is the central drilling for the hour and minute hands.



The hands themselves are blued, a classic Arnold & Son touch that provides a striking contrast against the warm tones of the amber. Their slender, elegant form complements the minimalist design, ensuring readability without distracting from the dial's natural splendor. The blued steel hands are thermally blued over a flame and were introduced and made popular over the course of horological history.



Surrounding this amber centerpiece is an ultra-thin, 39.5mm case crafted from stainless steel. The case's slim profile, measuring a mere 7.82mm in thickness, emphasizes the watch's refined and understated character. The choice of steel provides a cool, modern counterpoint to the organic warmth of the amber, creating a balanced and harmonious aesthetic. The polished finish of the steel reflects light, subtly highlighting the case's contours.



The HM Steel Amber is equipped with a domed sapphire crystal, treated with an anti-reflective coating on both sides. This ensures optimal clarity and allows the wearer to fully appreciate the amber dial's intricate details. The sapphire crystal's domed shape adds a touch of vintage charm while providing robust protection.



Turning the watch over reveals a sapphire crystal case back, offering a view of the meticulously crafted movement within. This transparent back allows for an appreciation of the inner workings of the timepiece, a testament to Arnold & Son's commitment to horological excellence. It allows one to see the detailed craftsmanship of the brand.



The heart of the HM Steel Amber is the A&S1001 calibre, an in-house movement developed and manufactured entirely at Arnold & Son's facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. This hand-wound movement, despite its incredibly thin profile of just 2.7mm, boasts an impressive 90-hour power reserve. This extended autonomy means the watch can run for almost four days without needing to be wound, a testament to the movement's efficient design.



The A&S1001 calibre operates at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour), a balance between precision and power reserve. The movement comprises 21 jewels, strategically placed to reduce friction and wear, ensuring long-term reliability and accuracy. These synthetic rubies act as bearings for the moving parts, enhancing the movement's smooth operation.



The A&S1001 calibre is not only technically impressive but also beautifully decorated. The case-back side of the movement displays radiating Côtes de Genève stripes, emanating from the balance staff, the central regulating organ of the watch. These finely etched stripes create a play of light and shadow, adding visual depth and showcasing the brand's attention to detail. The mainplate beneath is circular-grained, providing a contrasting texture. The edges of the bridges are meticulously lowered and polished, adding another layer of refinement.



The HM Steel Amber is presented on an "imperial green" alligator leather strap, adding a subtle touch of color that harmonizes with the amber dial. The strap is lined with papaya-yellow alligator leather, a luxurious detail that adds a pop of unexpected color and showcases Arnold & Son's commitment to using the finest materials.



The strap is secured with a stainless steel pin buckle, ensuring a comfortable and secure fit on the wrist. The buckle's design is simple and elegant, matching the overall aesthetic of the watch. The buckle is branded with the Arnold & Son logo, further identifying the maker of the watch.



The HM Steel Amber represents a daring combination of traditional watchmaking techniques and unconventional materials. The use of Baltic amber, a material with a rich history and unique aesthetic, sets this watch apart. It's a testament to Arnold & Son's willingness to innovate and push the boundaries of horological design. This limited edition of 38 timepieces has a price of $20,200 (excluding VAT). This price reflects the watch's limited production, the exceptional materials used, and the intricate craftsmanship involved in its creation.



Case: Stainless steel. Diameter: 39.50 mm. Thickness: 7.82 mm. Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides. Sapphire crystal case back with anti-reflective coating. Water resistance: 3 bar (30 meters/100 feet).

Movement: Calibre A&S1001. Hand-wound. Jewels: 21. Diameter: 30 mm. Thickness: 2.70 mm. Power reserve: 90 hours. Frequency: 3 Hz / 21,600 vph.

Dial: Baltic amber.

Strap: Imperial-green alligator leather. Papaya-yellow alligator leather lining. Pin buckle, stainless steel.

Price: $20,200 (excl. VAT).

Reference Number: 1LCDS.Z01A.C287S

Notes: Limited edition of 38 pieces. Features a dial made from Baltic amber, a fossilized resin estimated to be over 30 million years old.