Armin Strom presents a compelling new entry in its collection with the Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Edition Black. This timepiece encapsulates the brand's dedication to horological innovation and mechanical transparency, packaged within a distinctively modern aesthetic. The watch features a striking monochrome design that artfully merges the dial elements with the underlying movement architecture. Housed in a versatile 39mm stainless steel case, it offers a contemporary size suitable for various wrist dimensions. Complementing the dark tones of the dial and movement is a glossy taupe alligator strap, adding a touch of sophisticated contrast. This model is not merely an iteration but a focused expression of Armin Strom's core principles, particularly its mastery over the complex phenomenon of resonance combined with a practical travel complication.
The history of
Armin Strom provides essential context for understanding the significance of pieces like the Dual Time GMT Resonance. Founded in 1967 by Mr. Armin Strom himself, the brand initially gained renown for his exceptional skills in skeletonization and hand-engraving. His artisanal approach laid the groundwork for the company's future direction. The modern era of Armin Strom began in 2009 when the company was revitalized under the leadership of Master Watchmaker Claude Greisler and entrepreneur Serge Michel. They transitioned the brand into a fully integrated manufacture based in Biel/Bienne, Switzerland, a hub known for its rich watchmaking heritage. This strategic move allowed Armin Strom to design, develop, engineer, and assemble its movements entirely in-house, ensuring complete control over quality and innovation. This commitment to independence is a cornerstone of the brand's identity today.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
Armin Strom has carved a unique niche by blending traditional Swiss-German horological techniques with a forward-thinking, often avant-garde design language. A signature element across their collections is the deliberate exposure of the movement's mechanics on the dial side. This isn't just about skeletonization in the traditional sense; it's about integrating the movement architecture into the watch's overall design narrative. The brand operates with a low-volume production philosophy, emphasizing meticulous hand-finishing on every component, adhering to haute horology standards. This artisanal approach, combined with their technical ingenuity, particularly in the realm of resonance, underpins their philosophy, aptly termed the "Science of Movement," which seeks a perfect equilibrium between quality, innovation, and mechanical transparency for the wearer to appreciate.
At the very heart of the Dual Time GMT Resonance lies the complex and fascinating principle of resonance. In physics, resonance occurs when an external force or a vibrating system forces another system around it to vibrate with greater amplitude at a specified frequency. In watchmaking, this translates to using two independent oscillators—typically balance wheels—placed close enough that their vibrations influence each other. Through a coupling mechanism, their oscillations synchronize, effectively averaging out minor errors and leading to enhanced chronometric precision and stability. Pursuing resonance is a significant technical challenge, requiring deep expertise in movement design and regulation, a challenge Armin Strom has embraced and mastered.
Powering this sophisticated timepiece is the calibre ARF22, a testament to Armin Strom's in-house capabilities. This movement represents the 18th calibre designed, engineered, and manufactured entirely within their Biel/Bienne facilities. It is specifically built to harness the benefits of resonance. The architecture prominently features two independent balance wheels, positioned symmetrically, which become the visual and technical focal point of the watch. These oscillators are the core components that generate the resonant effect, constantly influencing each other to achieve a synchronized beat. The development of such a calibre requires immense precision in both design and manufacturing to ensure the resonant coupling functions reliably.
The ARF22 calibre is composed of 231 meticulously crafted components, each finished to Armin Strom's high standards. The twin balances operate at a frequency of 25,200 vibrations per hour (3.5 Hz). This frequency is a deliberate choice, balancing the need for precision with energy efficiency and longevity. The movement provides a power reserve of 42 hours when fully wound. While perhaps not the longest power reserve on the market, it's a respectable duration, especially considering the energy demands of driving two separate oscillators and the additional GMT complication. The intricate interplay of gears, levers, springs, and bridges is a demonstration of complex micro-mechanical engineering.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
A crucial element enabling the stable synchronization of the two balance wheels is Armin Strom's patented resonance clutch spring. This specially designed component physically connects the two oscillators. Its unique shape and properties allow the subtle vibrational energy to transfer effectively between the balances, encouraging them to fall into harmonic lockstep. More importantly, this clutch mechanism is engineered to maintain the stability of the resonance even when the watch experiences everyday shocks and impacts. This robustness marks a significant advancement in the practical application of resonance in wristwatches, moving it from a delicate theoretical concept to a reliable timekeeping advantage for daily wear.
Beyond its resonant heart, this timepiece offers a highly practical GMT function, making it exceptionally suitable for frequent travelers or individuals needing to track multiple time zones. The implementation features two completely independent time displays, each presented on its own sub-dial. Each display includes hours, minutes, and a dedicated day/night indicator, ensuring clarity regarding AM or PM in the respective zone. This dual-display layout allows for intuitive reading of both local time and home time (or any other two chosen time zones) simultaneously.
What elevates the GMT functionality in the Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance is the independent adjustability of both the hour and minute hands on each display. This is a significant departure from many GMT watches where only the hour hand is independently adjustable, typically in one-hour increments. Armin Strom's system allows for setting time zones that deviate from Coordinated Universal Time (UTC) or Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) by fractional hours, such as 30-minute or 45-minute offsets. This caters to regions like India, parts of Australia, or Nepal, positioning this watch as a truly global travel companion capable of handling non-standard time zone differences with precision.
The visual presentation of the Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Edition Black is defined by its striking monochrome palette and open-worked design. The dial features a sophisticated black grenage (granular) finish as its base, providing a textured, matte backdrop. This contrasts subtly with the black azurage (snailed) finish found on the chapter rings of the two time-display sub-dials, adding depth and definition. Applied, polished indices mark the hours, catching the light and enhancing legibility. The overall effect is one of technical sophistication, where the dark tones unify the various functional and mechanical elements visible on the dial side.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
Adding to the functional clarity and aesthetic detail are the day/night indicators for each time zone. These are rendered as small discs, executed in polished and blackened steel, rotating subtly to indicate whether it is day or night in the corresponding time zone. The hands responsible for indicating the hours and minutes on both sub-dials are crafted from rhodium-plated steel. They feature faceting and polishing, ensuring they stand out against the dark dial surfaces for easy reading while contributing to the watch's refined, modern look. The choice of rhodium plating provides a bright, silvery contrast that complements the stainless steel case.
The case of the Dual Time GMT Resonance is crafted from stainless steel, a material choice that emphasizes durability and a contemporary tool-watch sensibility, even for such a complex piece. It measures a balanced 39.00 mm in diameter, hitting a sweet spot that appeals to a wide range of preferences – neither too large nor too small for modern tastes. The case height is notably restrained at just 9.05 mm, allowing the watch to sit comfortably on the wrist and slide easily under a cuff, despite the complexity of the movement within. The lug-to-lug dimension is 44.50 mm, further contributing to its wearable proportions.
Protecting the intricate dial and movement are sapphire crystals on both the front and the case back. Sapphire is chosen for its exceptional scratch resistance, ensuring the watch maintains its clarity over time. Both crystals feature an anti-reflective treatment, significantly reducing glare and enhancing the visibility of the dial details and the mesmerizing movement architecture, whether viewed from the front or the back. The case construction provides a water resistance rating of 5 ATM (approximately 50 meters), sufficient protection against splashes and brief immersion, making it practical for everyday wear but not intended for swimming or diving.
Armin Strom's commitment to transparency and craftsmanship is evident throughout the watch. The "Manufacture Edition" designation underscores the brand's capability to produce nearly every aspect of the watch in-house. The open-worked design philosophy means that many of the 231 components of the ARF22 calibre are visible, not just through the case back, but integrated into the dial-side aesthetic. The brand takes pride in the hand-decoration applied to these components, even those not immediately visible. Techniques like chamfering, polishing, perlage, and côtes de Genève are employed to elevate the mechanical elements into objects of art, showcasing the skill of the artisans at the manufacture.
The visual ensemble is completed by the choice of strap. The Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Edition Black is fitted with a glossy taupe alligator leather strap. This selection provides a distinct contrast in both color and texture to the monochrome watch head. The light, earthy taupe hue offers a counterpoint to the black dial and steel case, while the glossy finish adds a touch of refinement. Alligator leather is prized for its luxurious feel and distinctive pattern. The strap is secured to the wrist with a standard stainless steel pin buckle, matching the case material and ensuring a secure fit.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
The combination of features results in a watch that is both technically fascinating and visually distinctive. The symmetrical layout of the dual time displays and the prominently positioned twin balance wheels creates a unique dial architecture. The resonance mechanism offers a genuine chronometric advantage, appealing to those fascinated by horological innovation. The highly flexible GMT function caters specifically to the needs of global travelers dealing with standard and non-standard time zones. The 39mm case size ensures broad appeal and comfortable wearability, distinguishing it from larger, more imposing high-complication pieces.
The technical feat of integrating two independent, resonating balance wheels with a dual-time display that allows for independent minute adjustments cannot be overstated. Achieving stable resonance requires incredibly fine tolerances and precise regulation. Adding the complexity of two separate gear trains for the time displays, each with its own day/night indicator and unique setting mechanism, all within a relatively slim 9.05mm case, speaks volumes about the engineering prowess housed within the Armin Strom manufacture. It represents a sophisticated blend of chronometric science and practical complication.
Visually, the watch achieves a remarkable balance. Despite the mechanical density visible on the dial – the twin balances, the resonance clutch spring, parts of the gear train, the dual sub-dials, and day/night indicators – the time remains surprisingly legible. The monochrome palette helps unify the design, while the polished hands and indices provide sufficient contrast against the textured black surfaces. The symmetry of the layout, with the balances at the top and the sub-dials below, creates a sense of order amidst the complexity, ensuring the technical display doesn't overwhelm the watch's primary function of telling time clearly across two zones.
This timepiece is a pure expression of Armin Strom's philosophy as an independent watchmaker. It showcases their commitment to in-house development (the ARF22 calibre), their willingness to tackle significant technical challenges (resonance and the advanced GMT), their belief in mechanical transparency (the open-worked design), and their dedication to high-quality, artisanal finishing. Owning an Armin Strom is often about appreciating this holistic approach to watchmaking, where innovation and craftsmanship go hand-in-hand, operating outside the constraints of larger luxury conglomerates.
The choice of stainless steel for the case is noteworthy in the context of high-complication watchmaking. While precious metals are common at this price point, steel lends the watch a more modern, robust character. It suggests that the focus is squarely on the technical innovation and craftsmanship within the movement, rather than relying solely on the intrinsic value of the case material. This aligns with a trend among some collectors who appreciate technically sophisticated watches designed for actual wear, blending high mechanics with everyday practicality.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
Limited to just 50 pieces worldwide, the Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Edition Black offers exclusivity alongside its technical and aesthetic merits. This scarcity enhances its appeal to collectors seeking unique timepieces from independent creators. The watch represents a convergence of Armin Strom's key strengths: the scientifically fascinating resonance mechanism providing enhanced accuracy, a highly versatile and user-friendly GMT function for travelers, a distinctive monochrome design showcasing mechanical artistry, and the assurance of in-house manufacturing and finishing.
The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Edition Black is positioned in the upper echelons of independent watchmaking, with a price set at CHF 87,882. Its availability is strictly limited to the aforementioned 50 examples, ensuring that ownership remains exclusive. This timepiece is geared towards enthusiasts who appreciate cutting-edge horological engineering, particularly the intricacies of resonance, combined with a practical and uniquely implemented travel time complication, all presented with Armin Strom's signature transparent and meticulously finished style.
Case: Stainless steel, diameter 39.00 mm, height 9.05 mm, lug-to-lug 44.50 mm. Sapphire crystal on front and case back with anti-reflective treatment. Water resistance 5 ATM.
Movement: Calibre ARF22 (in-house), featuring two balance wheels oscillating in resonance connected by a patented clutch spring. Comprises 231 components, operates at 25,200 vph, 42-hour power reserve. GMT function with two independent displays (hours, minutes, day/night indicators).
Dial: Black grenage finish with black azurage chapter rings. Applied polished indices. Polished and blackened steel day/night indicator discs. Rhodium, facetted and polished hands.
Strap: Glossy taupe alligator strap with stainless steel pin buckle.
Price: CHF 87,882.
Reference Number: ST25-DT.90
Notes: Limited Edition of 50 pieces. Features resonance technology for enhanced accuracy and stability. The GMT function allows for independent adjustment of both hour and minute hands, accommodating time zones with fractional hour offsets.