Angelus Instrument de Vitesse

The watch industry is a fascinating blend of tradition and innovation, where brands often walk a tightrope between honoring their past and embracing the future. Angelus, a name synonymous with groundbreaking horological achievements in the mid-20th century, is a prime example of this delicate balancing act. After a period of dormancy, the brand was resurrected in 2011, and it has been steadily reclaiming its position as a purveyor of high-quality, mechanically impressive timepieces. Their latest offering, the Instrument de Vitesse, is a compelling example of this resurgence, capturing the spirit of vintage chronographs while showcasing modern watchmaking prowess.



Before we delve into the specifics of this intriguing new release, it's worth taking a moment to appreciate the rich history of Angelus. Founded in 1891 by the Stolz brothers in Le Locle, Switzerland, the company quickly gained recognition for its innovative chronograph movements and complications. In the 1940s and 50s, Angelus was at the forefront of chronograph development, producing technically advanced watches that were highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts. Their chronographs were renowned for their precision, reliability, and distinctive designs, featuring multiple sub-dials, moon phase indicators, and even tide indicators. These watches were not just timekeeping devices; they were intricate mechanical marvels that reflected the brand's commitment to pushing the boundaries of horological engineering.



However, like many Swiss watchmakers, Angelus was hit hard by the quartz crisis in the 1970s and 80s. The rise of affordable and accurate quartz watches disrupted the traditional mechanical watch industry, forcing many brands to close their doors. Angelus was one such casualty, fading into relative obscurity for several decades.



The brand's revival in the 21st century has been marked by a renewed focus on its chronograph heritage, albeit with a modern twist. Angelus has sought to recapture the spirit of its vintage creations while incorporating contemporary design elements and manufacturing techniques. This approach is evident in the Instrument de Vitesse, a watch that pays homage to the golden age of motorsports while offering a refreshingly minimalist take on the chronograph function.



At first glance, the Instrument de Vitesse might appear to be a simple three-hand watch with a clean and uncluttered dial. The two versions, the Silverstone Grey and the Indianapolis Blue, both exude an understated elegance that is both refined and sporty. The Silverstone Grey, with its subtle graining and muted tones, evokes the cool composure of a seasoned racer, while the Indianapolis Blue, a vibrant yet sophisticated hue, captures the thrill and energy of the racetrack.



The dials are deceptively simple, featuring applied Arabic numerals and slender leaf-shaped hands that provide excellent legibility. The absence of sub-dials enhances the minimalist aesthetic, allowing the eye to focus on the central chronograph hand and the surrounding tachymeter scale. This scale, finely printed on the periphery of the dial, is a nod to the watch's motorsports inspiration, enabling the wearer to measure speed over a fixed distance.



The case, crafted from stainless steel, measures a modest 39mm in diameter, making it suitable for a wide range of wrist sizes. The alternating satin and polished finishes add a touch of visual interest, while the slim 9.27mm profile ensures that the watch sits comfortably on the wrist. The box-shaped sapphire crystal, reminiscent of vintage plexiglass, further enhances the watch's retro charm.



But don't let the seemingly simple design fool you. The Instrument de Vitesse is a chronograph at its core, albeit one that embraces a purist approach. Instead of the usual array of sub-dials, it features a single central chronograph hand that can measure intervals of up to 60 seconds. This "one-minute chronograph" concept harkens back to the early days of motorsports, when drivers relied on simple yet effective tools to gauge their speed and performance.



The chronograph is operated via a single push-piece integrated into the crown, a design choice that further emphasizes the watch's clean lines and minimalist aesthetic. This mono-pusher system, while seemingly straightforward, requires a high level of mechanical precision to ensure smooth and reliable operation.



Powering the Instrument de Vitesse is the A5000 calibre, a manually wound movement entirely produced by Manufacture La Joux-Perret, Angelus' sister company. This movement, measuring a mere 4.20mm in thickness, is a testament to the brand's commitment to horological excellence. It features a column wheel and horizontal clutch, traditional chronograph mechanisms that were prevalent in the 1950s, further reinforcing the watch's vintage inspiration.



The A5000 calibre beats at a frequency of 3Hz and offers a power reserve of 42 hours. The movement's finishing is equally impressive, with circular graining, Côtes de Genève stripes, and polished screws adding a touch of refinement. The sapphire crystal case back allows for an unobstructed view of this mechanical masterpiece, showcasing the intricate interplay of gears, levers, and springs.



At the heart of this watch beats the A5000 calibre, a manually-wound movement developed and produced entirely in-house by La Joux-Perret, Angelus' sister company. This movement, measuring a slender 4.20mm in thickness, allows the watch to maintain a svelte profile of just 9.27mm, ensuring it sits comfortably on the wrist despite its intricate mechanics.



The A5000 calibre operates at a frequency of 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour), a traditional rate that provides a pleasing balance between accuracy and longevity. The movement's architecture is based on classic chronograph principles, featuring a column wheel and horizontal clutch – mechanisms that were prevalent in high-end chronographs of the 1950s.



The column wheel, a complex component shaped like a miniature castle turret, acts as the chronograph's control center. It governs the start, stop, and reset functions with remarkable precision, ensuring smooth and reliable operation. The horizontal clutch, on the other hand, is responsible for connecting and disconnecting the chronograph mechanism from the going train (the series of gears that transfer power from the mainspring to the escapement). This type of clutch, favored for its smooth engagement and minimal impact on timekeeping accuracy, is a hallmark of traditional chronograph construction.



The A5000 calibre's finishing is commensurate with its technical sophistication. The mainplate is adorned with circular graining, a decorative technique that creates a subtle, textured pattern. The bridges, meanwhile, are chamfered and decorated with Côtes de Genève stripes, a classic finishing technique that adds a touch of visual refinement. Gold-toned wheels and polished screws further enhance the movement's aesthetic appeal.



But the A5000 calibre's beauty is more than skin deep. It's a testament to Angelus' commitment to horological excellence, showcasing the brand's ability to produce high-quality movements that rival those of more established manufactures. This dedication to craftsmanship is evident in every aspect of the Instrument de Vitesse, from the meticulously finished movement to the carefully considered design of the dial and case.



Speaking of the case, the Instrument de Vitesse is housed in a 39mm stainless steel case that strikes a perfect balance between vintage charm and contemporary proportions. The case's design is characterized by its clean lines, alternating satin and polished finishes, and subtly curved lugs that ensure a comfortable fit on the wrist.



Protecting the dial is a box-shaped sapphire crystal, a design element that harkens back to the plexiglass crystals used in vintage watches. This type of crystal not only adds a touch of retro flair but also offers superior scratch resistance compared to traditional acrylic crystals.



On the reverse side, a sapphire crystal case back provides an unobstructed view of the A5000 calibre in all its glory. This exhibition case back allows the wearer to appreciate the intricate mechanics of the chronograph, transforming the watch into a miniature mechanical theater.



The dial of the Instrument de Vitesse is a masterclass in minimalist design. Available in two distinct colorways – Silverstone Grey and Indianapolis Blue – the dial is devoid of extraneous details, allowing the eye to focus on the essential elements of timekeeping. Applied Arabic numerals and slender leaf-shaped hands provide excellent legibility, while the absence of sub-dials enhances the watch's clean aesthetic. The numerals and hands are coated with Super-LumiNova, ensuring optimal readability in low-light conditions. Encircling the dial is a finely printed tachymeter scale, a nod to the watch's motorsports inspiration. This scale allows the wearer to measure speed over a fixed distance, a function that was particularly useful in the early days of racing.



The Instrument de Vitesse's chronograph function is operated via a single push-piece integrated into the crown. This mono-pusher system, while seemingly simple, requires a high level of mechanical precision to ensure smooth and reliable operation. A single press starts the chronograph, a second press stops it, and a third press resets the hand to zero.



Completing the watch is a tone-on-tone nubuck strap that complements the dial color. The Silverstone Grey model features a mouse-grey strap, while the Indianapolis Blue model is paired with a dark blue strap. Both straps are crafted from high-quality calfskin and feature ecru stitching that adds a touch of subtle contrast. A stainless steel pin buckle secures the watch comfortably on the wrist.



The Angelus Instrument de Vitesse is a limited edition release, with only 25 pieces available in each color variant. This exclusivity, combined with the watch's impressive technical specifications and captivating design, is sure to make it a highly sought-after timepiece among collectors and enthusiasts.



With a Swiss retail price of CHF 17,200, the Instrument de Vitesse is positioned as a luxury timepiece that offers exceptional value for money. It's a watch that embodies the spirit of Angelus, a brand that has consistently pushed the boundaries of horological innovation while remaining true to its rich heritage.