Angelus Chronographe Telemetre

Angelus has introduced a new series, the Chronographe Télémètre, drawing deeply from its historical roots in chronograph manufacturing. These timepieces are presented as strictly limited editions, comprising two variations in stainless steel and one in 18-carat yellow gold. Characterized by a 37mm case diameter, a dial layout inspired by vintage designs, and a mono-pusher chronograph mechanism integrated into the winding crown, these watches serve as a direct nod to the brand's extensive legacy, particularly its expertise in creating specialized timing instruments. The combination of a hand-wound movement, historical design cues, and meticulous finishing results in a chronograph with a distinctive retro aesthetic.

The foundation of Angelus traces back to 1891 in Le Locle, Switzerland, where the Stolz brothers established their watchmaking Manufacture. From these early days, the company rapidly gained recognition, not just for standard timepieces, but for complex mechanisms. While alarm clocks and minute repeaters were part of their repertoire, it was the development and production of chronographs that truly began to define the Angelus name in the horological world. This dedication to precision timing instruments laid the groundwork for many innovative designs throughout the 20th century.



Over its long history, Angelus built a solid reputation for producing exceptional wristwatches featuring chronographs and multiple complications. Beyond the wrist, they were also known for multi-display travel clocks, often engineered with impressive power reserves, and practical alarm watches. This focus on functional complications, especially those related to timing and measurement, became a hallmark of the brand, influencing designs decades later and cementing its place as a significant historical contributor to Swiss watchmaking. The expertise honed in these early years is directly reflected in the concepts and mechanics of their modern creations.

The new Chronographe Télémètre finds its place within the contemporary "La Fabrique" collection. This specific collection acts as a bridge between Angelus's storied past and its present manufacturing capabilities. It aims to revive and reinterpret historical designs and functions for a modern audience. Previous entries in this collection, such as the Instrument de Vitesse and the Chronographe Médical, also paid homage to significant Angelus models, demonstrating a consistent strategy of leveraging the brand's rich heritage. The Chronographe Télémètre continues this tradition, specifically referencing the functional and visual language of Angelus chronographs from the mid-20th century.

Central to this new model is the telemeter scale prominently displayed on the dial. A telemeter is a specific type of measurement scale linked directly to the chronograph's sweep seconds hand. Its purpose is to calculate the distance to an event that is both visible and audible, such as a lightning strike. The user starts the chronograph mechanism the moment the event is seen (e.g., the flash of lightning) and stops it precisely when the sound is heard (e.g., the clap of thunder). The chronograph hand then points to the calculated distance on the finely graduated telemeter scale, which is calibrated in kilometers based on the speed of sound in air, approximately 1,240 kilometers per hour.

The telemeter is just one example of the specialized scales Angelus incorporated into its historical chronographs. The brand was also known for integrating other functional scales like pulsometers (for measuring pulse rate), tachymeters (for calculating speed over a known distance), decimal scales (often used in industrial timing), various countdown scales (both fixed and rotating), and even the more obscure asthmometer (presumably for measuring respiratory rate, highlighting Angelus's willingness to cater to specific professional needs). The inclusion of the telemeter scale on this new model directly recalls this aspect of the brand’s history, focusing on practical, physics-based measurements. The scale on the Chronographe Télémètre is calibrated up to 20 kilometers.

Measuring 37mm in diameter, the case of the Chronographe Télémètre marks it as the most modestly sized timepiece in the current Angelus lineup. This dimension deliberately evokes the proportions of classic mid-century chronographs. The case middle exhibits carefully sculpted curves that flow seamlessly from one lug to the other. This attention to form is further emphasized by the treatment of the lugs themselves, which feature polished edges that appear to plunge downwards at the top while exhibiting a subtle twist along their flanks. These complex shapes and dynamic lines are key contributors to the watch's vintage-inspired character, aligning it aesthetically with other pieces in the La Fabrique collection. The overall case depth is a relatively slim 9.25mm.



The watch is offered in three distinct dial variations, each lending a different personality to the timepiece. For the exclusive 18-carat yellow gold version (reference 0CHCQ.I01A.V010Q), the dial is presented in a white finish that possesses a subtle luster reminiscent of polished nickel. The two stainless steel models offer different colorways: one features a titanium grey dial (reference 0CHCS.G01A.V010S), providing a cool, technical look, while the other boasts a unique rose dial that leans towards a warm bronze hue (reference 0CHCS.P01A.V010S), offering a richer, more antique feel. These color choices provide distinct options while maintaining the overall design language.

Regardless of the color, the dial construction shares several key features contributing to its depth and vintage appeal. Each dial is domed, adding a gentle curvature visible under the crystal. The central area features a stamped grained texture, providing a subtle matte effect that contrasts beautifully with the surrounding elements. This central portion is encircled by a flange, finished with a smooth satin brush, which carries the telemeter scale. Separating these two distinct zones – the grained center and the satin flange – is a delicately applied, diamond-polished thread, adding a fine line of reflected light that enhances the dial's definition and perceived quality.

Further detail is found in the subsidiary dials, or counters. Positioned at 9 o'clock is the small seconds indicator, while the 30-minute chronograph totalizer resides at 3 o'clock. Both of these counters feature a snailed finish – a pattern of fine concentric circles – creating another layer of textural contrast against the grained center and satin flange. The hour markers are applied, consisting of both Arabic numerals and indices, lending further dimension to the dial. Depending on the specific model, these markers, along with the hands, receive either a black rhodium treatment for a darker, contemporary contrast or a warm 3N yellow gold finish to complement the case or provide a specific aesthetic accent.

Visually, the 18-carat yellow gold model (0CHCQ.I01A.V010Q) presents a classic, warm appearance. The 3N yellow gold case provides a rich, traditional frame for the white-nickel dial. This dial isn't a stark white but carries a slight metallic sheen, catching light in a way that complements the polished gold accents. The applied numerals and markers are finished in matching 3N gold, harmonizing with the case material and enhancing the luxurious feel. The hands, likely also gold-finished, stand out clearly against the bright dial background, ensuring readability while maintaining the cohesive color scheme. This version embodies a very traditional take on the vintage chronograph aesthetic.

The stainless steel variant with the grey-titanium dial (0CHCS.G01A.V010S) offers a more modern, tool-watch oriented interpretation. The cool tone of the stainless steel case pairs naturally with the neutral grey dial. The grained texture of the dial center and the satin finish of the flange take on a more technical appearance in this colorway. Contrast is provided by the markers and hands, which receive a black rhodium finish. This dark treatment ensures high legibility against the grey background and reinforces the functional, less decorative character of this version compared to the gold model. It feels utilitarian yet refined.



Perhaps the most distinct visually is the stainless steel model featuring the rose-bronze dial (0CHCS.P01A.V010S). The stainless steel case provides a neutral frame, allowing the unusual dial color to take center stage. Described as rose bordering on bronze, this hue offers significant warmth and a unique character that stands apart from typical salmon or copper dials. It evokes a sense of aged metal or tropicalization often seen on vintage pieces. Paired with the steel case and likely featuring the contrasting black rhodium-finished hands and markers (or potentially 3N gold, though black offers stronger contrast), this version blends the coolness of steel with the unexpected warmth of the bronze-toned dial, creating a compelling and unconventional look.

Powering all three versions of the Chronographe Télémètre is the Angelus in-house Calibre A5000. This movement is a manually wound, integrated chronograph calibre, meaning the chronograph mechanism is built into the movement architecture from the ground up, rather than being a module added onto a base time-only movement. A key feature is its mono-pusher operation, where the start, stop, and reset functions of the chronograph are all controlled through a single pusher, which is cleverly integrated into the winding crown. This design choice is historically significant, recalling early chronograph designs before the prevalence of two-pusher systems.

The finishing and architecture of the Calibre A5000 are noteworthy. Angelus has opted for a striking two-tone aesthetic visible through the sapphire case back. The mainplate and bridges, forming the foundational structure of the movement, are treated with a 3N gold finish, giving them a warm, golden hue. In contrast, the components specifically related to the chronograph function – the levers, hammers, and wheels – are finished in palladium, providing a bright, silvery contrast. This deliberate color separation highlights the complexity of the chronograph works against the base movement. The overall visual appeal is further enhanced by extensive finishing techniques, including pronounced bevelling on the edges of bridges and levers, stretching (likely referring to straight graining), circular graining on the mainplate and wheels, Côtes de Genève striping on the bridges, and polished screw heads.

From a technical standpoint, the A5000 calibre is well-suited to the Chronographe Télémètre's design. It operates at a frequency of 3 Hz, equivalent to 21,600 vibrations per hour, a rate common in traditional watchmaking that allows for a clear view of the balance wheel's oscillations. The movement incorporates 23 jewels to minimize friction at critical points. It provides a respectable power reserve of 42 hours when fully wound. Dimensionally, the calibre measures 24mm (historically referred to as 10lignes) in diameter and boasts a remarkably slim profile at just 4.20mm thick. This slenderness is crucial in allowing the complete watch case to maintain its relatively thin 9.25mm depth, contributing significantly to the vintage proportions and wearing comfort.

The chronograph mechanism itself employs a traditional and highly regarded control system: a column wheel coupled with a horizontal clutch. The column wheel, often considered a more refined (and complex to manufacture) solution than cam-actuated systems, acts as the "brain" of the chronograph, coordinating the start, stop, and reset functions. The horizontal clutch is the mechanism that engages the chronograph wheels with the main gear train of the watch when the chronograph is activated. This combination of column wheel and horizontal clutch was the standard for high-quality chronographs produced from the 1940s through the early 1970s, making its use in the A5000 a direct link to the historical period that inspires the Chronographe Télémètre.



Protecting the intricate dial is a box-shaped sapphire crystal. This shape, where the crystal rises significantly above the bezel before flattening out, is another vintage cue, reminiscent of the acrylic crystals used in the mid-20th century but offering the superior scratch resistance of modern sapphire. To ensure optimal legibility under various lighting conditions, this crystal features an anti-reflective coating applied to both its underside and topside. Similarly, the case back is fitted with a flat sapphire crystal, also treated with anti-reflective coating, providing a clear and unobstructed view of the meticulously finished Calibre A5000 movement within.

The watch's water resistance is rated at 3 bar, which translates to approximately 30 meters or 100 feet. This level of water resistance means the watch is protected against accidental splashes, rain, and everyday moisture exposure. However, it is not suitable for swimming, showering, or any form of prolonged water immersion. This rating is fairly standard for dressier or vintage-inspired chronographs where water activities are not the primary focus.

Each version of the Chronographe Télémètre is paired with a calfskin leather strap, chosen to complement the specific dial and case combination. The yellow gold model with the white-nickel dial comes fitted with a steel blue calfskin strap. The steel model with the grey-titanium dial is matched with a sage green calfskin strap. Finally, the steel version with the rose-bronze dial is presented on an anthracite grey calfskin strap. Each strap is secured with a traditional pin buckle crafted from the same material as the watch case – either 18-carat yellow gold (3N) or stainless steel – ensuring a cohesive look and feel.

The overall package presented by the Angelus Chronographe Télémètre is one that carefully balances historical reverence with modern execution. The 37mm size, the mono-pusher chronograph, the telemeter scale, the box crystal, and the movement architecture all speak to vintage inspirations. However, the use of sapphire crystal, the quality of the in-house A5000 movement with its advanced finishing, and the precise construction are thoroughly contemporary. It's a watch designed for those who appreciate the aesthetics and functional history of mid-century chronographs but desire the reliability and finishing standards of a modern high-end timepiece.



Reflecting their positioning as special pieces within the Angelus collection, the Chronographe Télémètre watches are produced in highly limited quantities. The 18-carat yellow gold version (0CHCQ.I01A.V010Q) is the most exclusive, with only 15 examples being made worldwide. The two stainless steel variants are slightly more accessible but still very restricted, with 25 pieces produced for the grey-titanium dial version (0CHCS.G01A.V010S) and another 25 pieces for the rose-bronze dial version (0CHCS.P01A.V010S). This scarcity underscores their collectible nature.

Corresponding to the materials and limited production, the pricing positions these watches in the luxury segment. The Swiss retail price for the 18-carat yellow gold Chronographe Télémètre is set at CHF 32,300 (including VAT, subject to change). The stainless steel models are priced identically to each other, with a Swiss retail price of CHF 17,900 (including VAT, subject to change). Given the very small production numbers – a total of only 65 pieces across all three references – prospective buyers will need to act decisively through authorized Angelus retailers, as availability is inherently constrained.

CHRONOGRAPHE TÉLÉMÈTRE YELLOW GOLD WHITE

Case: 18-carat yellow gold (3N), 37.00 mm diameter, 9.25 mm depth. Box sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides. Sapphire crystal case back with anti-reflective coating. Water-resistance 3 bar (30 metres/100 feet).

Movement: Calibre A5000, manual winding mechanical. 23 jewels, 24 mm diameter, 4.20 mm thickness. 42-hour power reserve, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency. Two-tone finish: 3N gold finish on mainplate (circular-grained) and bridges (Côtes de Genève, chamfered), palladium finish on chronograph components. Circular-grained wheels, polished screws.

Dial: White-nickel color. Domed, stamped grained center, satin-finished flange, diamond-polished border, snailed counters. Appliqué numerals and hour-markers with 3N gold finish.

Strap: Steel blue calfskin. 18-carat yellow gold (3N) pin buckle.

Price: CHF 32,300 incl. VAT (subject to change).

Reference Number: 0CHCQ.I01A.V010Q

Notes: Limited edition of 15 timepieces. Features hours, minutes, 30-minute chronograph controlled by a mono-pusher integrated into the crown, and a 20 km telemeter scale.



CHRONOGRAPHE TÉLÉMÈTRE STEEL GREY

Case: Stainless steel, 37.00 mm diameter, 9.25 mm depth. Box sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides. Sapphire crystal case back with anti-reflective coating. Water-resistance 3 bar (30 metres/100 feet).

Movement: Calibre A5000, manual winding mechanical. 23 jewels, 24 mm diameter, 4.20 mm thickness. 42-hour power reserve, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency. Two-tone finish: 3N gold finish on mainplate (circular-grained) and bridges (Côtes de Genève, chamfered), palladium finish on chronograph components. Circular-grained wheels, polished screws.

Dial: Grey-titanium color. Domed, stamped grained center, satin-finished flange, diamond-polished border, snailed counters. Appliqué numerals and hour-markers with black rhodium finish.

Strap: Sage green calfskin. Stainless steel pin buckle.

Price: CHF 17,900 incl. VAT (subject to change).

Reference Number: 0CHCS.G01A.V010S

Notes: Limited edition of 25 timepieces. Features hours, minutes, 30-minute chronograph controlled by a mono-pusher integrated into the crown, and a 20 km telemeter scale.



CHRONOGRAPHE TÉLÉMÈTRE STEEL ROSE

Case: Stainless steel, 37.00 mm diameter, 9.25 mm depth. Box sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides. Sapphire crystal case back with anti-reflective coating. Water-resistance 3 bar (30 metres/100 feet).

Movement: Calibre A5000, manual winding mechanical. 23 jewels, 24 mm diameter, 4.20 mm thickness. 42-hour power reserve, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency. Two-tone finish: 3N gold finish on mainplate (circular-grained) and bridges (Côtes de Genève, chamfered), palladium finish on chronograph components. Circular-grained wheels, polished screws.

Dial: Rose-bronze color. Domed, stamped grained center, satin-finished flange, diamond-polished border, snailed counters. Appliqué numerals and hour-markers with black rhodium or 3N gold finish.

Strap: Anthracite grey calfskin. Stainless steel pin buckle.

Price: CHF 17,900 incl. VAT (subject to change).

Reference Number: 0CHCS.P01A.V010S

Notes: Limited edition of 25 timepieces. Features hours, minutes, 30-minute chronograph controlled by a mono-pusher integrated into the crown, and a 20 km telemeter scale.