When you think of a watch, what components spring to mind? The face, the hands, the strap perhaps? Well, let us draw your attention to a tiny, yet oh-so-important part of every timepiece - the crown. Some might say that the crown is the unsung hero of the watch world - a bit part player in the grand theatre of horology. But oh, how wrong they would be. This mighty midget is responsible for some of the most essential functions of your wristwatch, and it's about time it had its moment in the spotlight. So let’s dive into the world of the watch crown, and see just what makes this tiny piece such a vital component of our beloved tickers.
Courtesy of Oris
The crown, also known as the 'winder,' is a little knob usually found on the right-hand side of the watch case. It's the part that you pull out to set the time or date on your watch. It's also the part that you wind to give energy to the watch if it's a mechanical timepiece. To put it simply, without the crown, your watch wouldn’t ‘watch’ very well at all!
Now, the crown is not just a piece of decoration or an afterthought in watch design. On the contrary, it’s a marvel of engineering and a testament to the meticulous nature of watchmaking. It is usually linked to the movement via a stem, which traverses the watch’s case. When you turn the crown, you are in fact manipulating this stem, which, in turn, interacts with the various components of the movement to alter the time or date, or wind the mainspring.
In the grand old history of horology, the watch crown's story begins in the early 19th century. Prior to the crown’s existence, pocket watches had a tiny key that was used for winding and setting the time. This method, known as key-wound, was anything but convenient as the key could easily be lost, and carrying it around was a nuisance.
Courtesy of Zenith
In 1842, a French watchmaker named Adrien Philippe (who would later co-found the prestigious brand Patek Philippe) introduced a stem-wind, stem-set system, which was the first hint of the modern crown we know and love today. This innovation allowed the user to wind the watch and set the time without needing a separate key. The days of misplacing tiny keys were over, and the era of the crown had begun. Watch wearers everywhere let out a sigh of relief!
By the late 19th century, another breakthrough was made in the form of the 'screw down' crown. This was primarily a response to a need for increased water resistance in watches. The screw down crown formed a seal against the case when not in use, preventing water and dust from entering the watch case. This invention was patented by the
Rolex Watch Company in 1926 and used in their Oyster model, touted as the world's first waterproof watch.
In the annals of watchmaking, the crown has evolved from a mere functional part to an element of design and identity for watch brands. Some brands have signature crown designs, while others infuse gems or brand logos into their crowns for an extra dash of character.
All in all, the crown's evolution is a testament to how horology merges functionality and art. Every tweak, every design change is driven by a desire to create the perfect watch. And if that doesn’t justify giving this little dial the royal treatment, I don’t know what will!
Courtesy of IWC
We've only scratched the surface of the watch crown's fascinating history. Stick around as we delve deeper into the development of this essential component, and explore some iconic watches where the crown truly shines in all its glory. Trust us, by the end of this, you’ll never look at that little dial on your watch the same way again.
Now that we've brushed up on our crown history and learned why this little component is so pivotal, let's turn our attention to some of the most iconic crowns that have graced the horology scene. We've chosen four timepieces that showcase not only the functionality but also the creative flair that a crown can bring to the wrist.
First up is none other than the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner. This iconic dive watch is a testament to the engineering marvel that is the screw-down crown. In a world where every second counts and precision is key, the Rolex Submariner ensures water and dust are kept at bay with its Twinlock system. This system allows the crown to screw down against the Oyster case providing a hermetic seal akin to a submarine’s hatch. It's not just functional but sleek and stylish too, featuring the Rolex coronet logo etched onto the crown itself. The Rolex Submariner is an exemplar of the crown's evolution for the sake of functionality and aesthetics.
Courtesy of Rolex
Next on our list is the
Cartier Santos. The Santos was one of the earliest wristwatches and famously adorned the wrist of aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. What sets this watch apart is its unique crown. Adorned with a beautiful blue sapphire cabochon, this crown is not merely a tool to adjust time, it's a design element that adds a touch of elegance and a splash of color to the watch. This tiny detail underscores how Cartier sees their watches – not just as timekeeping devices, but as pieces of jewelry.
Courtesy of Cartier
The third crown in our lineup belongs to the
Patek Philippe Calatrava. It is no surprise that the company, co-founded by the father of the modern crown, showcases a simple yet sophisticated crown. This elegant dress watch features a petite, slightly domed crown that smoothly integrates with the case's slim profile. No frills, no distractions, just pure understated elegance. This is a classic example of "less is more".
Courtesy of Patek Philippe
Last but certainly not least is the
IWC Big Pilot. As the name suggests, everything about this watch is big, and the crown is no exception. Inspired by the pilot watches of the 1940s, its large, conical crown is a prominent feature that is easy to grip and adjust, even with gloves on. A practical necessity for pilots back in the day, the oversized crown has now become an integral part of the Big Pilot's bold, distinctive look.
Courtesy of IWC
To conclude, the crown of a watch, while small and often overlooked, plays an indispensable role in timekeeping and the overall aesthetic of a timepiece. From the Rolex Oyster's technical ingenuity to the elegant simplicity of the Patek Philippe Calatrava, from the gem-encrusted luxury of the Cartier Santos to the bold statement of the IWC Big Pilot, each of these watches tells a story through their crowns. They serve as a reminder that the beauty of watchmaking lies in the attention to detail, and that every component, no matter how small, has the potential to be both functional and artistic.
So the next time you wind your watch or adjust the time, spare a thought for the humble crown. It may be small, but it is mighty, and without it, the watch on your wrist would be a far less fascinating piece of machinery. Whether you're a horology enthusiast, a casual wearer, or an aspiring collector, always remember - in the world of watches, it's the little details that crown the experience.