The Art of Watchmaking a Deep Dive into Manufacture Movements

Welcome, horology enthusiasts, to the labyrinth of watchmaking! Get ready for a fantastic voyage into the world of "Manufacture" or "In-house" movements, a term that carries significant weight in the universe of timepieces. If you've been enraptured by the tick-tock of watches and want to understand the intricacies behind these timekeeping marvels, strap in for a fascinating journey into the heart of "Manufacture" movements.



The term "Manufacture," derived from the Latin "manus" (hand) and "factus" (make), was originally used in watchmaking to refer to factories where watches were made. Today, it has evolved to signify something even more specific: watch companies that design and produce their movements entirely in-house. It's the ultimate watchmaking achievement, offering an unparalleled level of creativity, quality control, and prestige.

Before we dive into the captivating world of "Manufacture" movements, it's crucial to understand the difference between in-house and outsourced movements. In the grand scheme of horology, most watch companies use outsourced movements, often purchasing them from companies specializing in creating watch movements. These can be used 'as is' or modified to suit the brand's specific requirements. However, a "Manufacture" or "In-house" movement is the result of a watch company's painstaking effort to create its watch engine, marking the pinnacle of watchmaking expertise.

The roots of "Manufacture" movements trace back to the 18th century, the Golden Age of watchmaking. Watchmakers, such as Abraham-Louis Breguet and Ferdinand Berthoud, made all components of their timepieces in their workshops. However, the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century brought about a shift in this process. The advent of machine tools allowed parts to be mass-produced, leading to the birth of ébauche, or partially completed, movements. Many watch companies began buying these movements and adding their finishes, a trend that dominated the watch industry for a long time.

However, the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s and 1980s, when cheap, highly accurate quartz watches flooded the market, led to a drastic reduction in the production of mechanical watches. To survive and stand out in this new landscape, several luxury watch companies decided to revert to the centuries-old tradition of making their movements in-house. This shift marked the resurgence of the "Manufacture" movement, a trend that has continued to gain momentum in the 21st century.

The revival of "Manufacture" movements was not a simple task. It required enormous financial investment, extensive research, and highly skilled watchmakers. Rolex was one of the early adopters of this trend, and its in-house Calibre 3135, launched in 1988, has been hailed as one of the most successful automatic movements ever made. This was a significant milestone in the "Manufacture" movement's history, setting a high benchmark for in-house movements in terms of reliability and performance.



Since then, other watch companies have stepped up their game, recognizing the benefits of producing their movements. Not only does this provide a unique selling point for their watches, but it also gives them complete control over the design, functionality, and quality of their timepieces. Companies such as Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and A. Lange & Söhne have become renowned for their "Manufacture" movements, each offering unique characteristics that are distinctly their own.

In more recent years, even smaller, independent watchmakers have begun to create their in-house movements, showcasing their craftsmanship and technical prowess. Richard Mille's ultra-modern, highly complex movements, F.P. Journe's innovative designs, and Greubel Forsey's artistic horological masterpieces stand testament to the exceptional creativity and talent that "Manufacture" movements have inspired.

The journey into "Manufacture" movements is akin to diving into the heart of watchmaking, a thrilling exploration of horology's depths where innovation meets tradition. So, fasten your seatbelts as we embark on the second part of our journey, where we will delve deeper into some iconic "Manufacture" movements and understand why they're considered the Zenith of watchmaking.



Let's dive into the wonderful world of "Manufacture" watches and examine four exceptional timepieces that perfectly embody this revered horological concept.

First on our list is none other than the Rolex Submariner, the quintessential diver's watch, housing the Rolex's in-house 3135 movement. Born in 1988, this automatic, high-precision movement boasts 31 jewels and a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The Submariner, with its robust Oyster case, unmistakable dial with large, luminescent hour markers, and a rotatable Cerachrom bezel, is a marvel of "Manufacture" achievement. It is a testament to Rolex's relentless pursuit of excellence and embodies the perfect harmony of form and function.



Next up, we have the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, a watch that changed the landscape of luxury watchmaking with its audacious design and the use of steel in a luxury timepiece. The heart of this icon, the automatic Calibre 2121, is an in-house "Manufacture" marvel. Boasting a thickness of just 3.05mm, it's one of the world's thinnest self-winding movements with a central rotor. This movement not only enables the Royal Oak to maintain its slender profile but also provides the watch with a blend of aesthetic appeal and superior performance.



Now, let's move on to a timepiece that has become the symbol of Swiss luxury watch manufacturer Patek Philippe—the Calatrava. The Calatrava showcases Patek Philippe's in-house manufactured calibre 324 S C. This automatic movement, visible through the sapphire-crystal case back, features meticulous finishing and an elaborate decoration in the grand tradition of Geneva watchmaking. The classic design of the Calatrava, combined with this exceptional "Manufacture" movement, creates a timepiece that is the epitome of understated elegance.



Last but certainly not least, we turn our gaze to the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1. This timepiece, known for its off-centre dial design and outsized date window, is powered by the manually wound, in-house calibre L121.1. The three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver, hand-engraved balance cock, and the meticulously finished movement parts are all hallmarks of A. Lange & Söhne's uncompromising quality. The Lange 1 is a perfect embodiment of the brand's commitment to horological perfection and their prowess in "Manufacture" movement creation.



To conclude, "Manufacture" movements are much more than just the beating heart of a watch. They're a testament to a brand's watchmaking prowess, a tangible symbol of their commitment to preserving the traditional art of horology while pushing the boundaries of innovation. While "Manufacture" watches often come with a higher price tag, the assurance of quality, exclusivity, and the sheer joy of owning a timepiece that represents the apex of watchmaking skill makes them a worthy investment for any watch aficionado. So, the next time you hear the ticking of a watch, remember, you're not just hearing the passing of time, but the echo of centuries of craftsmanship and innovation.

Whether you're a seasoned collector or a budding horology enthusiast, we hope this deep dive into the world of "Manufacture" movements has deepened your appreciation for these mechanical marvels and given you a new perspective on the captivating world of watches.