Hello, horology aficionados! It's time to dive (pun very much intended) into a small but significant component that's a big part of your timepiece's life — the screw down crown. Today we're taking a deep dive (yes, another pun) into the world of this unsung hero, where we'll explore its function, history, and the milestones it has achieved over time.
Courtesy of Oris
At first glance, the crown might seem like just a small knob on the side of your watch. But oh, how appearances can deceive! This little piece is the steering wheel of your wristwatch, allowing you to set the time, date, and other functions (if your watch has them), and, most importantly, wind your watch — if it's not automatic, of course.
But what about a "screw down" crown, you may ask? Picture a jar with a screw-on lid. Now imagine if that jar held something extremely precious — something you wouldn't want to lose or damage. You'd want to make sure the lid was screwed on tightly, right? That's essentially what a screw down crown does for your watch. It forms a tight, secure seal, protecting your watch from dust, debris, and perhaps most crucially, water. It’s the guardian at the gates, ensuring the precious time-keeping mechanism inside your watch is safe and secure.
Now, let's set our time machines to the late 19th century, when the need for water-resistant watches started to surface. Back then, pocket watches were the norm, and they did just fine without any water-resistance. However, as wristwatches gained popularity, especially in military use, the need for water-resistance became more apparent. Soldiers, after all, can't exactly avoid rain, can they?
Courtesy of Seiko
The first breakthrough came in the form of the 'slide' or 'dustproof' crown, introduced by the Waterbury Clock Company. While it did not offer complete water resistance, the dustproof crown made significant strides in protecting the watch movement from debris and minor water exposure.
The true hero of our story, the screw down crown, didn't make its grand appearance until the 1920s. Rolex, a brand that needs no introduction, released the
Rolex Oyster in 1926, the world's first water-resistant wristwatch. The watch achieved its water-resistant capability largely due to the innovative screw down crown. This marked a huge milestone in the world of horology, as it was the first time that wristwatches could reliably be protected from water damage.
But the story doesn't end there! In the 1950s,
Blancpain entered the fray with their Fifty Fathoms watch, designed specifically for French Navy divers. It featured a double sealed crown system which meant even if the crown was accidentally pulled out underwater, the inner seal would prevent water from entering the watch. This was another significant step forward in the development and use of screw down crowns.
So far, we've looked at how the screw down crown evolved to become a vital part of wristwatch design, ensuring the delicate inner workings of our beloved timepieces are safeguarded from the elements. But don't go anywhere just yet! In the second part of this riveting tale, we'll delve deeper into the technical aspects of the screw down crown, look at its usage in the world of horology today, and highlight some iconic timepieces where this little marvel truly shines.
Courtesy of TUDOR
Ready for round two of our horological exploration of the unassuming yet impressive screw down crown? You bet! Let's plunge right into some of the iconic watches that masterfully incorporated this essential feature, forever changing the landscape of the wristwatch world.
We're going to start with none other than the trailblazer itself, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual. A timepiece that is so synonymous with water resistance, it has 'oyster' in its name! The Oyster Perpetual's ingenious screw down crown was a landmark achievement for Rolex and the watch industry as a whole. This was the watch that braved the English Channel on Mercedes Gleitze's wrist in 1927, proving once and for all that a wristwatch could be truly water-resistant.
Courtesy of Rolex
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual's Triplock system, consisting of three sealed zones, is located within the tube of the crown. This system ensures that the watch remains watertight, even during winding. With such a robust system, it's no wonder the Oyster Perpetual remains one of the most reliable watches out there.
Next up, let's marvel at the
TAG Heuer Monaco. The Monaco is famed for its association with actor Steve McQueen and its standout square case. But did you know it also features a left-sided screw down crown? This quirky placement is a nod to the automatic Calibre 11 movement within - a wearer wouldn't need to wind the watch and so the crown was moved to the less-used side of the watch.
Courtesy of TAG Heuer
The left-side screw down crown contributes to the Monaco's unique charm and has become a characteristic feature of this iconic timepiece. It demonstrates that practical design elements, such as the screw down crown, can also serve as distinctive aesthetic components.
Our journey would be incomplete without acknowledging the
Omega Seamaster. Known as the "James Bond watch," the Seamaster is a masterclass in elegance, precision, and durability. The Seamaster Professional models feature a helium escape valve, operated by a screw down crown, that allows helium to escape from inside the watch when worn in high-pressure environments. This is especially useful for professional divers conducting saturation dives.
Courtesy of Omega
Moreover, the Seamaster's screw down crown adds a layer of protection against accidental adjustment, making sure the time and date stay set, and the watch remains water-resistant up to a whopping 300 meters. The Omega Seamaster is a testament to how function and form can meet, creating a watch that is as tough as it is elegant.
Finally, we turn our attention to the
Panerai Luminor. Known for its hefty case and distinctive bridge over the crown, the Luminor's design is robust and utilitarian. The protective bridge adds extra security to the screw down crown, ensuring the watch's water-resistance up to 300 meters.
Courtesy of Panerai
However, it’s not all just about functionality. The iconic crown-protecting bridge has become a design signature for Panerai, making the Luminor instantly recognizable. It’s an exemplar of how a feature designed for practical purposes can become a defining aesthetic element, adding to the overall character of a timepiece.
In conclusion, the screw down crown, while seemingly just a minor component, plays a pivotal role in the world of watches. It offers an essential line of defense against the elements, protecting the intricate machinery that brings our watches to life. But it's not just about functionality - as we've seen with our four iconic examples, the screw down crown can also serve as a distinctive design element, adding a unique flair to a timepiece.
So next time you're winding your watch or adjusting the time, take a moment to appreciate the humble crown. It's more than just a knob on the side of your watch - it's a critical guardian, a design element, and a fascinating piece of watchmaking history. Here's to the screw down crown, the unsung hero of our beloved timepieces!