Dazzling Time the Glittering Journey of Pave in Watches

Exploring the Artistry and Evolution of Pave-Set Diamonds in the World of Horology

Words by: Hourstriker Staff
August 3, 2023
Prepare to step into a world of glitz and glamour, where thousands of tiny diamonds twinkle under the bright lights, transforming an ordinary timepiece into a veritable work of art. Welcome to the fascinating world of Pave, a technique that elevates a watch from being a mere timekeeping device to a breathtaking symbol of opulence and craftsmanship.



Courtesy of Rolex




The term 'Pave', pronounced as 'pah-vey', originates from the French word 'pavé', which translates to 'paving'. Much like a cobblestone path is paved with stones, in the world of horology and jewelry, 'Pave' refers to the art of setting small diamonds or other precious stones closely together onto the surface of a piece, in such a way that it appears to be literally paved with gemstones. In a watch, this technique can be used to adorn various parts, including the dial, the bezel, the case, the bracelet, and sometimes even the movement.



The origin of the Pave setting can be traced back to early jewelry design where artisans sought to maximize the shine and brilliance of precious stones. However, it wasn't until the mid-20th century that we saw this technique migrate into the domain of watchmaking. It was during the era of 'more is more' - the ostentatious 80s - that Pave started gaining prominence in timepieces.



One of the key milestones in the use of Pave in watches was when the renowned Swiss luxury watchmaker, Patek Philippe, introduced a series of timepieces adorned with the Pave setting in the 1960s and 70s. These watches, often referred to as 'disco volante', or 'flying saucer' due to their peculiar shape, brought forth the idea of the 'watch as jewelry', thus broadening the horizons for other watch manufacturers to explore this technique.



As the years rolled by, the application of Pave in watchmaking became more widespread, but not without challenges. The primary difficulty lay in the meticulous precision required to implement it. The art of Pave setting involves drilling tiny holes onto the watch's surface, placing the diamonds into these holes, and then securing them with tiny metal beads or prongs. Given the minuscule size of the diamonds and the precision required to avoid damaging the watch components, this process is incredibly time-consuming and requires the expertise of skilled artisans.



Courtesy of Richard Mille




Another significant milestone in the evolution of Pave in watchmaking was the incorporation of colored gemstones. Watchmakers began to experiment with a variety of precious and semi-precious stones, including sapphires, rubies, and emeralds. This brought about a kaleidoscope of colors to the watches, opening a new realm of creativity and design possibilities.



However, one must not overlook the functional challenges posed by the Pave setting. Watches, unlike other jewelry pieces, are subject to continuous movement and handling. This necessitates the Pave setting in watches to be not only visually appealing but also robust and durable. Overcoming this hurdle called for the development of innovative setting techniques and new alloys for the prongs or beads holding the stones in place.



It's important to understand that Pave is not just about the sparkle. The quality, cut, color, and clarity of the stones; the precision of their placement; and the overall design contribute significantly to the watch's appeal. As such, Pave watches are often considered to be an embodiment of luxury and meticulous craftsmanship.



In the upcoming segment of our exploration, we will delve deeper into the world of Pave watches. We will look at how various luxury watch brands have incorporated this technique into their timepieces, and we will uncover the innovations and advancements that have revolutionized the Pave setting. Moreover, we will look at some iconic Pave watches that have left their indelible mark on the horological landscape.



Courtesy of Hublot




As we continue our journey through the world of Pave, it's time to shine the spotlight on four timepieces that wear their glittering robes with panache. Each of these watches is a testament to the craftsmanship and the aesthetic versatility that Pave brings to the realm of horology.



First up, we have the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 4899/901G-001, a stunning example of Pave in its most luxurious form. This women's watch takes the art of Pave to extraordinary heights. Its dial and case are resplendent with over 700 brilliant-cut diamonds, and to top it all, the dial features a random setting of beautiful blue sapphires, creating an impression of a star-studded night sky.



Courtesy of Patek Philippe




But the real beauty of this timepiece lies in its subtlety. Despite the extravagant use of diamonds and sapphires, the overall design remains elegant and understated, a trait synonymous with the Patek Philippe brand. The Calatrava Ref. 4899/901G-001 serves as a classic example of how Pave can be employed to create timepieces that are as refined as they are opulent.



Next, let's turn our gaze to the Rolex GMT-Master II "SARU", a timepiece that exemplifies Rolex's flair for combining functionality with aesthetics. SARU, standing for SApphires, Rubies, and diamonds, is a flamboyant model in the Rolex lineup. Here, the Pave technique is used to stunning effect on the bezel, which is adorned with multicolored sapphires and diamonds, creating a vibrant burst of color.



Courtesy of Rolex




However, what truly sets this watch apart is that the colored sapphires on the bezel also serve a practical purpose – they correspond to the 24-hour GMT hand, providing a beautiful, yet functional, GMT display. This exemplifies how Pave in watches can serve not only as a decorative feature but can also be incorporated innovatively into the watch's functionality.



When it comes to extravagant watch design, few can match the audacity of Hublot. The Big Bang Unico Full Baguette King Gold is a testament to this claim. This watch is a veritable explosion of sparkle, with the case, bezel, and bracelet fully encrusted with Baguette-cut diamonds, employing the Pave setting. In total, the watch boasts an astonishing 334 diamonds, all meticulously arranged to enhance the watch's masculine, angular lines.



Courtesy of Hublot




Hublot's use of the Pave technique showcases how it can transform the visual appeal of a sporty, robust timepiece, adding an element of glamour without diminishing the watch's inherent ruggedness. The fusion of diamonds with the bold design of the Big Bang makes this timepiece a real head-turner.



Lastly, we have the Ballon Bleu de Cartier, a watch that beautifully merges Cartier's jewelry heritage with its watchmaking expertise. This timepiece, with its curvaceous case and the iconic blue sapphire cabochon, is a masterpiece in itself. But it’s the Pave-set dial that truly takes the breath away. The sparkle of the brilliant-cut diamonds, juxtaposed against the Deep Blue sword-shaped hands, adds a magical touch to this timepiece.



Courtesy of Cartier




This watch demonstrates the artistry behind the Pave setting and how it can be used to enhance a watch's elegance and femininity. The Ballon Bleu de Cartier serves as a perfect example of how Pave can create timepieces that are not only visually stunning but also resonate with a brand's design philosophy.



From the elegance of Patek Philippe's Calatrava to the bold and lavish Hublot Big Bang, Pave continues to play a pivotal role in shaping the personality of watches. It serves as an ode to the human desire for beauty, luxury, and meticulous craftsmanship. But beyond the glitter and glamor, Pave also exemplifies the spirit of innovation in watchmaking, demonstrating how aesthetics and functionality can come together in harmony.



The journey of Pave in watchmaking is a testament to the evolution of watches as not merely timekeeping devices, but as pieces of art, symbols of status, and expressions of personal style. And as long as the allure of sparkle endures, we can expect to see more exciting interpretations of this glittering technique in the realm of horology.



The next time you see a Pave watch, remember to appreciate the countless hours of labor and the incredible precision that went into creating that scintillating masterpiece. And know that when you wear a Pave watch, you're not just wearing a timepiece - you're wearing a piece of art, a testament to human creativity and craftsmanship, a story told in a thousand twinkles. And what a brilliant story it is!
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